Matt Kidd

Central Couloir - Three victims, one whom was from out of country. Pretty sad stuff.

http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-columbia/3-climbers-die-on-joffre-peak-north-of-pemberton-1.2897879 RIP

We found 8 pitches of WI near the Sumallo cirque. Better than expected for sure. Will write it up when I have a sec. Haven't heard of stuff in that drainage and there was quite a bit to do that got left undone. Wished we had more time.

Is there any beta on the Edwards line beyond the couple of sentences on Bivouac?

Since it is going to be cold and bluebird and I am looking for ideas for a long day Saturday night/Sunday. Preferably something a bit beyond a simple snowy couloir. Any thoughts? Thanks-Matt

Nice one. We were up the week before and were not that fast. We also had to dodge a pretty good barrage from one of the gullies approaching the black towers. I think that the advise that you are giving is right on. For me the climbing on the black towers didn't seem much harder than any of the other scrambling - I think you are right to suggest that keeping close and unroped is probably the safest. We had the rope out simuling and it never got hard enough to warrant it. Ditto on the rock shoes. For us after the one steep pitch on the little step and some scrambling we headed right on a ledge when we shouldn't have, and climbed three pitches of the worst rock I've ever climbed. After a pitch and a half it was obvious that the route was a scramble out to the left but by the time we worked it out it didn't seem worth trying to get over to it. I guess the moral for the route is if it is more than a low fifth scramble and isn't the little or big step you are off route. Thanks for the report.

Pretty cool stuff. Thanks for sharing.

Nice report. I thought that line would be fun in winter with the right snow conditions. Congrats and good timing gents.

Similar stuff available there for the most part.

Nice Dave

Mine have less wear than those pictured above but have a small amount of deformation (Pre-stainless Sabretooths). Wearing out a bit slower than the crampons in general.

If you are still looking for direction why not ask Dane? If you write him on his blog I expect you'll get prompt help.

Adam's a great guy. Went to highschool with him on Vancouver Island and had some early backcountry adventures. Lost touch for many years, and then ran into one another ice climbing in the Rockies! Left his Bach. Eng. to pursue his passion for Caving and the outdoor lifestyle. Not hard to see why.

Or Quantum Techs

It has certainly crossed my mind, but may not be able to get away. Owning a business is a double edged sword... That said, where would you go if you were going now for full value alpine?