Le Piston
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Posts posted by Le Piston
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I agree...as a fellow working dad old fart, great TR and inspiration (I'm planning on a Picket's adventure this summer!)
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I totally agree with Layton on "pick a goal". I notice that if I have a specific goal, my motivation to slog with a heavy pack and watch what I eat and drink goes up exponentially. When the time comes for that long anticipated climb, I think back on the conditioning slogs while I'm cruising and enjoy the climb all the more. A climbing buddy of mine says that half the battle is showing up...so agree that a lot of success is mental. Thanks for the thoughts you shared.
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I wish! Some of us have jobs and families=less time for play, so it's difficult. I envy folks like Dane who can get away for that long, and don't begrudge them their good fortune. All of us have different motivation, time commitments, budgets, and goals. Climbing isn't all about the gear, but the gear can greatly increase the comfort, safety, and enjoyment of the trip. I agree that fitness, skill, etc. are more important than the latest titanium thingamajig. But, we do use gear don't we? I don't see (thank goodness) my fellow climbers out free soloing in the buff. All the comments (less the finger-pointing) are helpful and thought provoking for those of us who like talking about the gear we use. While I'm trying to get more fit and lose the extra lard off my body trudging up Mt. Si after work for the zillionth time, I envision my planned trip to Challenger this summer...and think about what I'll need and can leave behind.
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Excellent ideas Dane...enjoyed your post. Light and fast is usually the safest way to climb. It seems to be a constant art to match the climbing route, conditions, fitness of the climber/climbers,and skill level (read: comfort level) to the gear you take...and still leave a margin of safety. I must admit to being a bit of a gear geek, so it's part of my fun to ponder what to take and what to leave behind so I can move efficiently on a climb and minimize my exposure to objective hazards. Keep up the good work!
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I've used sleeping bags made by both companies and found them to be well made and durable. I like the WM Ultralight (rated to 20 degrees)for 3 season climbing here...except when it gets hotter weather, then I go for a lighter bag (Montbell Alpine Down Hugger). My FF bag hood fit just fine, so I can't support that rumor. DPS is right, conditions can vary...as well as individual comfort levels. Good Luck!
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My thoughts exactly...I like my Yates pickets.
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I won't go back in time to my leather double boots and Galibier's, but the best fit I have had were the La Sportiva Trango S (on my 3rd pair) and Asolo Expert GV (2nd pair)
La Sportiva Nepal EVO good except in the toe (too narrow)
Koflach Viva Soft too loose in the heel
Scarpa Invernos great fit, rubs my shins
Hope this information helps, though I find you have to try on a wide variety to get a good fit.
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Does this Chad happen to be an RN? Looks just like a guy I used to work ER with.
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Check out the CosleyHouston.com web site (professional guides) There is a section "Alps Advice" with helpful information for climbing in the Alps...it helped me out a lot. Summitpost.org also has some good information on specific climbs. Hope that helps and have a great time!
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Great TR! You guys had quite the adventure. Extra hardman points for sleeping in space blankets. I tried it once...nuff said. Loved the pictures...inspiring.
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When I was in Taiwan 2 years ago, I didn't make it to Long Dong. The extent of my "climbing" was a hike up Phoenix Mountain. It is hot and humid in the summer...but at least you'll probably miss typhoon season. It might rain a lot. Try googling Climbstone.com Rock Climbing Taiwan and Rockclimbing.com. There is supposed to be a couple climbing guides by Matt Robertson (Rock Climbing Taiwan and Long Dong Trad Climbs). I hope you have a great trip!
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Thanks. The Alps have a lot of beautiful peaks to climb.
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That brought back good memories. Strong work on a classic route. Thanks for the nice pictures too!
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Trip: Breithorn, Pollux, Castor, and Monte Rosa - Various
Date: 7/29/2005
Trip Report:
Ever since my brother got me my first ice axe and introduced me to mountain climbing, one mountain above all fascinated me...the Matterhorn. In 2005 I had the funds, partner, and time off to pursue that dream. When my friend Rod and I arrived in Zermatt, the Matterhorn was in perfect climbing condition.
We decided to acclimatize a bit with a climb of the Breithorn (4164 meters)
We ascended the west ridge to the summit, then dropped back down and climbed the central summit (4159 meters)
We had hired a guide, Larry Dolecki, to maximize our chances of success and time. We met up with him in Zermatt and decided to do another acclimatization climb of the Obergabelhorn SE ridge before trying the Matterhorn. We approached the Arben Hut via bolted ladders.
We awoke to a white out storm, and retreated back to Zermatt. We waited one day, hoping the weather would improve. It would take a long spell of good weather before the Matterhorn was in shape, so we decided to climb whatever we could until then. We took the cable car to Klein Matterhorn and headed onto the Verra glacier hoping to find better weather on the Italian side of the mountains.
We dropped down to the Gnifetti Hut and enjoyed the pleasures of hot food, warm beds, international company, and alcoholic beverages.
The next morning dawned clear and we were treated to views towards Mont Blanc.
Our next goal was to climb Liskamm (4527 meters) as a traverse going west to east and end up near Monte Rosa.
We headed up to the west ridge, but high winds turned us back a few hundred feet from the west summit. We headed back and climbed Castor (4228 meters) instead.
We traversed south below Liskamm and descended the Gren Glacier to the Monte Rosa hut.
The next morning we awoke early with about a hundred other climbers and started climbing by headlamp. The hut is at about 2795 meters(9200 feet), and the Monte Rosa summit is 4634 meters(15,199 feet). We passed all but two parties on the glacier and soon were on the rocky west ridge. 
The rock was a little verglassed, but soon we were on the summit.
Unfortunately, it was socked in, so we didn't get to enjoy the view. We returned to the hut, rested and hydrated, then crossed the Gorner glacier and hiked up to Gornergrat to catch the train back to Zermatt. The weather improved and gave us a nice view of both Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn (alas with new snow). 
We enjoyed a rest day, then headed back up to climb Pollux (4092 meters).
Another storm came in and dropped another half foot of new snow, and so ended my hopes of climbing the Matterhorn on this trip. I must say I still had a great time!Gear Notes:
Standard glacier gear. Ear plugs and a sleeping sack for the huts.
Approach Notes:
From Zermatt, cable car and train access and well marked trails make approaches pretty easy. If you want to stay in the huts, make reservations...they fill up early in peak season. We were turned away from the Margherita Hut.
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I third it (or whatever). It has awesome pictures.
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Too bad Upstate New York and New Hampshire are so far...I used to get pretty good workouts hiking the Tuckerman Ravine trail on Mt. Washington (4.2 miles/4000 ft. elevation gain), Mt. Marcy, etc. Hiking any hills with a heavy pack will help. I hope your plans will give you a couple days to acclimatize. I usually do better spending a couple days above 6-10,000 feet before summit day. I hope the weather cooperates and you have a great trip!
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Any idea how stable they are or the weight difference? I like the concept, but can already hear my wife yelling..."You already have four pairs of poles and you need another pair why?"
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You can also find some nice rock climbing at the Royal Columns/Tieton.
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I had one, but wasn't too impressed. If I find it in my gear horde I'll let you know.
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I don't know if it is still available, but I have used the CAMP STH 245 for many years in the Cascades, Alps, and Canadian Rockies. It weighs 9 oz. and meets most, if not all of your specifications...I've really liked it for alpine climbing.
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I totally agree with "The Mont Blanc Massif" and "50 Classic Climbs". I have a couple others to add..."Summit" and "To the Summit".
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Another vote for the "A" series Canon. I have the G12, but never take it climbing. I use the A1200IS for climbing. I can operate it one handed, it has an optical viewfinder, as ericb points out it is nice using AA batteries (which I also use for my headlamp). It takes nice pictures and is handy clipped to my shoulder strap or harness.
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Can't speak to the BD Oasis, but I have both the BD Firstlight and Skylight. The Skylight is quite roomy for two and gear, lightweight, but requires seam sealing. I've been pretty happy with mine.
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I did enjoy your TR Friedrich...and appreciated the nice pictures and beta. I was unfortunately working during the stellar weather you enjoyed, gnashing my teeth and wishing I was up on Chair Peak. Glad you found a partner and had a good climb. Thanks, from a fellow wheezing geezer!
What gear to invest in?
in The Gear Critic
Posted
I'm with Genepires, flesh out your rack and basic gear with a little of the money, and spend the rest on a nice road trip or long local go at your ticklist. If you've got the time, take advantage of it. You can hopefully hook up with a climbing partner who has the big wall experience and equipment...add to your rack as need and experience dictate. One more thought...got a camera to capture your climbing trip? Have fun!