Le Piston
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Posts posted by Le Piston
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If you really want to stick to single wall, you might look at the Black Diamond Skylight. It weighs a tad under 5 pounds, 88 inches long, same material as the Firstlight (and wider). A couple long double walls to consider: MSR Fury at 94 inches, and my personal favorite the Hilleberg Jannu at 93 inches. The Jannu is pretty pricey, but very well made. Good luck!
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I have a BD Skylight that goes a bit over 4 pounds and really like for two people (a lot more room than the Firstlight and more stable in wind) but also have the Hilleberg Jannu which goes around 6 pounds and is a bomber 4 season tent which has great features. There are plenty more tents that could meet your needs, but I have had good experience with these two. Good luck!
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If it's sustained 5.8+ or above, I like my Mythos as well (which replaced my Kaukulators). I wear a very thin liner sock for comfort. If it's mostly mid-fifth class with a few harder moves I'm with G-spotter with the Guide Tennies...they are much more comfortable for a long day.
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Thanks for the TR. I love climbing up there...extremely beautiful. But, the rock quality adds a couple grades in difficulty/fear factor in my opinion. Some of my most scared moments climbing were on Canadian Rockies rock. It keeps things "interesting" eh?
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Nice photos Caleb. I got rained off this a few years back and hope to get back up there before I get too old and fat. I thought Mt. Assiniboine was the Matterhorn of Canada?
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I like both approaches...the Colchuck Lake route has some cool views of Stuart, a nice waterfall, and of course Colchuck Lake. I really lucked out on the last perfect weather weekend of October. The larches were just a bit past prime, but still beautiful. Thanks for the comments guys.
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Trip: Enchantment and Cannon Peaks Fall finale - Standard
Date: 10/7/2012
Trip Report:
I was fortunate enough to score a "Core" Enchantments permit for 4 days and decided to combine checking a couple more peaks off the wish list with my friend Rod and some leisurely picture taking. I was wondering if we'd be cancelling the trip as I coughed my way over Blewett Pass to meet Rod at the ranger station in Leavenworth...lots of smoke from fires. Even at the trailhead, it was pretty smokey. The original plan had been to approach via Aasgard Pass, but the road was closed due to fires.
By the time we were at Nada Lake, the smoke was gone and my lungs were happier.
I was happy to set up camp at Lake Vivian, with nice views of Prusik Peak and not too far to our chosen peaks.
We went cross country to Prusik Pass, remembering previous climbs and wishing we were climbing it again. We headed west from the pass and soon were at the blocky 4th class summit of Enchantment Peak.
We again enjoyed our traditional summit treat.
The views were still pretty nice...even with the surrounding smoke.
We went back to the pass and dropped down and headed northwest to Cannon. The summit is a small exposed slab of 3-4th class climbing.
There was only room for one at a time at the summit. He enjoyed a well earned summit treat!
We considered throwing McClellan into the day, but were content (and tired), so decided to leave it for another trip. Rod left early Monday morning and I stayed another day to roam the Enchantments and relax. It was just the sort of trip I wanted...great weather, great views, and a great climbing partner.
Gear Notes:
Just a helmet...these are scramble peaks.
Approach Notes:
As of last weekend, the Enchantments could only be accessed via Snow Creek trail. The smoke was a lot less when I hiked out on Tuesday.
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It didn't suck...far from it! Loved the pictures. Thanks for sharing such a cool place and your adventures there.
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Matt, I have the days off, but will have to broach the subject with the wife later...not wise for me right now when I'm leaving tommorow for 4 days and already getting some grief from her. I'll get back to you...hopefully with good news!
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I was thinking Golden Horn/Tower one of the next two weekends...Sorry, I've already got a partner for this weekend.
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Do you have either of the following two weekends free? I'm hoping to head up to the Enchantments this coming weekend...scored a Core Enchantments permit!
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I like the Osprey Aether 85 for big loads. Very comfortable and not too heavy.
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I've been wanting to do this, but wonder if it's not too late in the season. I could only do it in a weekend though (15-16th or 22-23rd)
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Some stout climbing there gentlemen! Thanks for the TR and pictures. Sounds like a character building exit out.
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Great pictures! I was supposed to go there this summer...maybe next summer. Thanks for the stoke!
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Val, you're an animal! Looks like a great trip. Thanks once again for posting.
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I've been using Biwell on my leather boots since I was a teen (hate to admit...over 30 years) and I love it. I'm sure the Nikwax works just fine. I think Marmot still carries it if you want to try it. Tvash brings up a good point, I always wash and dry my leather before aplying. By the way, it will discolor the leather a bit.
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Sweet pictures...thanks for posting your adventure. I love that area!
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Yes, Chipmunk Creek basin is to the east of Glacier...not quite due east, but close enough.
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Trip: Mt. Maude - Standard
Date: 9/4/2012
Trip Report:
This isn't much of a climb (It ain't the North Face), but it's in a spectacular area and is in the shameless peakbaggers list. My original plan was to do a solo recon for a future trip to South Spectacle Butte. Instead of the ususal Leroy Basin approach, I decided to try the Carne Mountain high route. The first half of the trail is steep, but easy to follow. The second half involved some cross-country connect-the-trail routefinding. I wound up making camp on a ridge above Chipmunk Creek basin.
The view was pretty nice!Tuesday dawned clear, with great views of Glacier Peak. I decided to head straight up to the ridge and drop down to the Ice Lakes basin. It involved some steep hard snow descent and 3rd class rock, but took me right where I wanted to be.
After dropping down to upper Ice Lake and snapping some pictures, I headed up an easy snow slope and onto easier trail up to the summit of Maude.
It took me about an hour and 20 minutes to the top, where I of course enjoyed a summit treat.
I am looking forward to coming back here when the larch trees have turned color.
I took the regular approach trail down to the junction with the Carne trail and packed up for home. Gear Notes:
Glad to have the crampons and ice axe for the hard snow portion.
Approach Notes:
Water is sparse, but still there along the route. Carne Mountain trail is a bit hard to follow, but cross-country travel usually gets you back on it.
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Welcome to my world...I usually take my pack in the back yard (my wife don't want it smelling up the house post climbing trip) grab the hose, some liquid soap, a sponge and scrub away. Then its rinse with the hose and air dry. Smells good again. I've never tried the stuff rob mentioned, but it sounds like just the thing for multiday stank.
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Way to get it done Val. Looks like fun...nice TR! I hope to do this climb before I get too old. I got stoked after seeing it from Trapper last fall.
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Trip: Fortress and Chiwawa - Fortress East Ridge, Chiwawa SE Face
Date: 8/13/2012
Trip Report:
My climbing partner once told me the lowest form of climber was the peak bagger. I must have been a bad influence on him, because he has joined the club with a vengeance! We had the weekend free and decided to knock off a couple more "top 100" Washington peaks, and decided to try Fortress and Chiwawa. We got an early start Saturday morning at the Buck Creek/Trinity trailhead and made good time to Chiwawa Basin.
There are nice camp sites here by the river crossing, but knowing we had a long Sunday ahead we decided to camp in the upper basin (approx. 5500 ft.)
We got up about 5:00 a.m. Sunday and did a part bushwhack, part trail hike up towards the East Ridge of Fortress.
There is a moderately steep snowfield that gets you onto the ridge about 8300 feet.
From there it's a loose 3-4th class scramble along the crest and up a short chimney to the summit.
We met another party on top who came up from Buck Creek Pass. The views are pretty nice up there!
We downclimbed the route and traversed over (mostly snow) to the col below Chiwawa approx.7300 ft. We had thought of doing the West Ridge, but ended up doing the scree fest Southwest Face/Ridge.
We shared another traditional Ritter Sport summit chocolate reward.
It was nice to see a different aspect of Fortress.
It was a long, hot descent back to camp. We especially enjoyed the bushwhack part where you couldn't see your feet.
It made for a long day, especially with the torment of ravenous flies and skeeters, but a lot of beautiful scenery. Fortress is a fun climb, Chiwawa is a rubble heap, but at least it's off the peak bagging list now.Gear Notes:
Ice axe, crampons, and helmet. We brought a rope and small rock rack but it ended up staying in the pack.
Approach Notes:
A few minor blowdowns on the trail. When going from Chiwawa Basin to upper basin, stay out of the marshy downed tree mess by getting into the trees climbers left (unless you enjoy bushwhacking). Lots of running water below 8000 feet. Even more bugs! The Chiwawa river is too wide to jump, but only calf deep.
AAI Scenic Category 2013 Photo Submission Thread
in Climber's Board
Posted
Mount Baker from tarn near Park Butte.