your moderaters have turned this site into a place for themselves and their little egos which explains the drop in attendence over the years. won't be back nor ever contribute again.
Laugh if you want but ice routes of this type are the best they have been in at least 15 years. wnat a bad rep safely this is your year to bag these routes. Strain, central , sky. etc....
You will not recover the 15 minutes you lost watching this video!!
Stay in the climbing game long enough and your sure to deal with foul weather. This video deals with a few tips about getting the ends of the rope down when wind is present. This video does not cover rappelling in any great detail as we have done that in more detail on other videos.
Most of the time grabbing a few coils throwing them off to space is enough. As the wind picks up you may actually have to carry the coils down with you. This is not as bad as one might think if done correctly.
Series on how to rap
This first covers what knot you use to tie the ropes together.
This one deals with dividing the rope.
This one deals with hooking up your rap device and backup prussik.
The merits of the backup prussik where to put it and why.
Mountain Guide Tom Wolfe describing a couple of methods backing up your rap.
This issue was about the anchors , how and why. Only one persons perspective however he does it so many time I felt I was about to puke a anchor towards the end. Good for those just starting out boring for everybody else.
In this edition Mike gives advice on how to maintain a lasting relationship. As http://youtube.com/sawbackwc asks mike his secrets to being a guide and yet maintaining a healthy relationship.
At what angle do you place a ice screw? http://youtube.com/mgbanach makes the bold statement that you always place a ice screw at a positive angle. (Downward so that the hanger is tilted in the angle of pull/load.) This was a comment make on the http://youtube.com/mikebarter387 site. Mike however is not really so sure that you can make a definitive statement like this and that perhaps ice quality may come into play also.
Kid and the outdoors. http://youtube.com/domu888 Domu has a 2.5 year old kid who he wants to introduce to the outdoors. I have a unit the exact same age so I can relate to his situation. I also have units 14 and 1`5 years of age and will take the same approach that I took with them I suppose. The youngest Jaxx is on the Banff climbing team and the oldest doesn’t climb as well but skis like greased lightning.
Links to this episode.
Will Gadd has a good point and so do your crampons
http://gravsports.blogspot.com/2007/01/ice-screw-testing.html
Craig Luebben test found in Google Books
http://books.google.ca/books?id=eLJNVA3FwScC&pg=PA150&lpg=PA150&dq=ice+screw+testing+Craig+Luebben&source=bl&ots=lWZyYDwFVo&sig=KVQscEwybg25tUKcXMr6LXlkETg&hl=en&ei=s1jQS6WgOZyotAOsjcDUDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=2&ved=0CAoQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q&f=false
Chris Harmston/Black Diamond
http://www.needlesports.com/advice/placingscrews.htm
This is a weekly "sorta" as I am out a couple days this week so it will be two days late.
This one is about friction knots and crevasse rescue and the basics of short roping.
also in the apple itunes podcast section
"climbing tools:mountaineering lessons"