gruntpltleader

Thanks, that cleared it up.

Big Brother is watching. Make sure you use Double Plus (++) good think.

I have been looking at the book by Long. In a multi-pitch, where exactly does the second tie in to an equallete? In a Cordalette situation, I understand the top shelf, which allows the second to tie in at the masterpoint. Does the second need to tie in with their own double locker, or do they tie in to the orignal double as well? This also can confuse things as my usual partner does not lead yet, so I end up leading all the pitches. But the sitution could apply to block leads. I understand the that the Anchor depends on the situation, but I am learning as many as I can to apply to different situations. thanks.

Big ASS cat

your likely favorite memory, 30 years hence, no doubt when the whole place looks more or less like it did before even the soviets arrived? Ivan, I hope it is a better place. I really didn't care for most of the middle east, but the actions there can make you feel absolutely alive.

Be safe Sobo.. Im living vicariously through your reports and not missing the place one bit. well .....Maybe a little.

Not totally wishful thinking, saw a Frontline special about Oregon making pseudoephedrine prescription only, apparently reduced the meth problem (and prison population) very significantly. Of course the pharmaceutical companies are fighting to get the law over turned locally and nationally. Check your data. Crime has been decreasing, but has been since mid 90's. Since measure 11 and 57, incarceration has been climbing. The crime drop and the incarceration rate are not linked variables. The timing doesn't quite work out. taking pseudo-ephedrine off the shelves did however, make it damn hard to be more comfortable with a head cold. check out the scandal with the oregonion and it's special meth report. once again, we have to be careful on how we consume mass media.

or the Easter Islanders.

Well, he didn't eat anyone... "you can run me, you can starve me, you can bore me, and you can kill me....just don't eat me, that's against the law." SFC Mitchell circa 1993 FT. Carson

In some forms I agree with you. That is why I say due process. If he is found mentally deficient, then by all means get him the help. If he is found mentally competent for trial and was competent when he allegedly (He is assumed innocent, I should add.) comitted the crimes, then the punishment should be appropriate to the crime. I have been in similar situations with multiple combat tours as an infantryman. The stress is unimaginable some days. The military does provide help to soldiers dealing with these situations. And to be fair, we may not know the entire story. Regardless of the situation he was in, the killing of 14 civilians is intollerable in any way shape or form. I had to constantly evaluate a valid target in the form of collateral damage to the civilian populations and use appropriate force and response to force. We constantly try to make the best decisions possible in really difficult and dangerous situations. Your argument sound like the age old argument that there are no bad soldiers, only bad leaders. I disagree. sometimes there are soldiers who should have due process. That is why they have the uniform code of military justice. Just my two cents, thanks for the debate.

No, He should not be let go. This soldier did not live up to his contract with the Army, the Constitution, The United States of America, or humanity. He did not live the Army values of Loyalty, Duty, Respect, Selfless Service, Honor, Integrity,and Professionalism. This SSG Makes me sick. If he wasn't in the Army he would still make me sick. He broke his social contract with society and should be duly punished after due process. On another note to Qoute Ivan, "by some standards at least, humanity is experiencing the most peaceful period of its existence in recorded history - the congo might not be much better off, but the vikings at least have largely chilled the fuck out" This leads to a great TED talk at the following link.

After three tours in that part of the world and dealing with all of the "fun" things one can experience over there.. I have only 3 bits of advice for you. 1 run when they tell you 2. sleep when you can 3. use as many mind altering chemicals as you can get your hands on( just kidding) Oh yeah. bring lots of digital porn. on a serious note. Be safe. they really want to kill you and will go to amazingly stupid ( and wicked smart) ways to do it. PM if you need anything. I will probably be right behind you

Great Job! Thanks for the beta, that climb is on my to do list this summer. Probably August depending on work. I have been looking for some info like this. Specifically the traverse portion and a little bit on how to protect the bowling alley.

Last summer I was rapping from the bolts to right of the top of Superslab. About half way down, there was a large (42 inch TV..not plasma) sized block that was very loose. I almost trundled it, and then realized that there might be people below. I was usnure who to report it to. Is there a group of locals that take stewardship of issues like this? The real question is, who should make a decision about rock at a climbing area like Smith Rocks, and is there a venue for reporting an unsafe situation that is natural vs an unsafe situation caused by climbers. I think that all climbers accept a certain amount of risk by pursuing this sport and each climber makes their decisions on the mitigation of that risk. Your thoughts?

What I find myself doing is using up what I need prior to the anchor. I end up using the tricams and hexes where I think "damn I wish I had a number .75 here". or using all the cams and then forced to build an anchor with passive pro that may not be as easy to place. I am always looking for nut placements. It probably boils down to confidence and experince and I realize that once I have the experience, my confidence will increase. I do know that I love the sport, wish I had more time for it, and will be climing for at least another 20-25 years. into my 60's hopefully.I admit I am somewhat of a gear whore. New fangled shiny stuff always catches my eye. Ido want to get a guide. I do want to climb the monkey face (pioneer route) to do that I will need some aiders and ascenders. Prusiking up a fixed rope sounds fine, but my wife will be doing it and she wont like it. any advice on ascenders vs prusik knots?