dirt_dog

Camera was lost and now is found. Thank you to the person who hiked it out to the trailhead. I am getting it back from the person who picked it up at the trailhead.

layton, the mosquitoes are as bad as they say. I have been in swarms before and thought that it wouldn't be a big deal. I underestimated the mosquito density. I made my headnet in the car (cause I hadn't planned on having one and was convinced otherwise at the last minute by a couple of recent accounts) and was glad that I had one when I got there. They don't bother you when you're climbing, cause its too windy, but you can't just chill at camp because you are constantly swarmed. The only time it really bothered me was when I wanted to eat or drink, that's hard with a headnet. and they get in your food, which is really annoying. we ate in the tent mostly. .... good to know about Warrior 1, we can feel better about bailing on that one.

Trip: Cirque of the Towers - Wind River Range, WY - Pingora & Wolf's Head Date: 8/3/2011 Trip Report: View the whole album: https://picasaweb.google.com/112749937591469968726/CirqueOfTheTowers# 8/3: Hiked from the Big Sandy Trailhead to Cirque of the Towers 8/4: South Buttress of Pingora II 5.8 - approach took about an hour from our camp. well worn trail up the slabby buttress. the first two pitches are 5.6 up a white corner. the third pitch is the "K" Cracks. we did the left side of the K, which is much more popular. The 5.8 climbing was a thin crack/flake just before the ledge. super fun! from the top of this pitch, unrope and scramble to the summit. Descent is best with two ropes. 8/5: Rest day. We used this day to scope out the approaches, we were concerned about the amount of snow, but it was fine. 8/6: East Face, Left Cracks - Pingora IV 5.7 - the first pitches are clean and splitter. some cracks are full of grass, choose wisely. the middle section is blocky, simul through this part up to where the route crosses the East Ledges route. A couple more pitches takes you to a large ledge where you can walk over to the rap station for the S. Buttress. This route gets some traffic, but it could be cleaner (lots of grass) and be careful for loose blocks. 8/7: Northeast Face of Pingora IV 5.8 - this is the classic. The worst part of this route was simply getting to the start! A full rope length of mostly unprotected slab moves brings you to the base of the large corner. The final section of this was super super heady for me. (we maybe chose a steeper section, I saw another party go across slabs lower down) The corner is steep 5.7, then some fun climbing. I did get off route by the crux pitch. the description calls out an "ugly flared crack". (why would you go that way, I thought) I was sucked in by a splitter to the right of the right facing 5.9 layback dihedral- I came back down to the ledge, so I'm not sure how hard that crack is, but we did see a bail biner higher up, so its probably hard. 8/8: East Ridge of Wolf's Head III 5.6 - a unique opportunity to do two 50 Classics back to back. This climb is so wild!! Very memorable sections with maximum exposure. Highly recommended! Low difficulty, High adventure. The descent is long and takes you over the Col between Wolf's Head and Overhanging Tower. At this Col, you are standing on the Continental Divide. 8/9: Rest day. Ate lots of food and hung out in the mosquito free tent. We ran into someone from Seattle! 8/10: Attempt on the Northeast Face of Warrior 1 IV 5.9 - We bailed after the first two pitches. This route does not get much traffic. Maybe the rock gets better higher up, but the first pitches were pretty scary due to rotten and brittle rock. I broke a large foothold, I've never doubted my gear (due to rock integrity) like I did on this route. My partner wasn't feel'n it and we went down when the wall got steep. 8/11: Hike out to the parking lot and start the 1000 mile drive home. ... the wildflowers are amazing. the scenery stunning. the mosquitoes are horrible. Gear Notes: Double ropes. Double rack. (Doubles up the #3, and a single #4) Single set of nuts. Long pitches. Used a lot of big gear. Bring a rap kit if you plan to do any routes that are not super popular. Headnet required for camp. Approach Notes: Jackass Pass may be "infamous", but its really a hump that is only briefly steep. I thought the worst part of the hike into the cirque was the elevation gained and lost around North Lake. Keep your eyes open for the climber's path that goes around the west side of Arrowhead Lake. Do Not take the hiker's trail over the pass. The climber's path takes you directly to the campsites in the meadows. It took us 8 hours with the heavy packs.

item sold!

Bought these in the gear garage because at the time I really wanted a pair of Katanas. I now realized that they do not fit my foot at all. I have only worn them in the gym twice.

I regularly pick up trash when I hike and climb, and that's how my little eye spied a memory card under a melting snow patch on the north face of Vesper Peak. I would love to reunite you with your long lost photos!! Found at the beginning of August. it's a little dirty, but still works!!

I totally need to go to Squamish, but maybe Leavenworth would be fun too. I am looking to climb mostly trad, mostly moderates or easy 10s. I have all the goods and a car. Would ideally drive up Saturday after work. I live in Ballard. ((My bf and I climbed Dreamer a couple days ago and now I want more long trad climbs with bolted belays- sweet! )) If you have these days available and sinking your paws into granite sounds fun - let me know.

Thanks for the photos. inspiring! what a great place!

I love cracks too!! PM sent.

My homemade topo of the route as we climbed it. most of the belays are trees, but I ran into that same situation where I was out of rope and slings behind a big flake. Fun climb with a unique approach. Way to GO!

feck- i just wanted to stand up and be counted as splitboarder. my comment was actually taken from a bumper sticker i saw on the way to baker one day and I thought it was cool. I guess it means it is the answer for people that don't want to ski. The system faces a lot of criticism and is not for everyone, but I love it.

Splitboarding is the answer.

thanks for the reply. I'll probably not drive that far this week, but I do love squamish, so I'll try to reach you if I need a partner there again. for this week, you should try to get in touch with "aaron b".... he posted for a squam partner tomorrow. good luck and thanks!!

you should try to meet up with "outdoorguy" that replied to my posting. He is in squamish and I'll probably stay more local tomorrow. good luck!

I'm in Seattle and looking for other weekday climbers. I usually have tuesday and wednesdays off. I lead sport to 10a, trad to 5.8, and am totally happy to lead or follow. I have a rack and a car and the weather this week is too good not to be out!! give a shout if you want to climb this week!