cheamclimber
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Posts posted by cheamclimber
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It seems like a lot of the old climbs at Harrison have chains around trees, I think it is better to put rap rings into the rock than kill a tree.
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ya I prefer to rap directly off anchors, If i plan on having lots of people climbing/lowering I always build/use quickdraws
Ditto. Also if it is just a quick run up a route that I am not going to be working it I will go with the anchor.
In regards to pindudes picture, yeah I would not ever thread an aluminmum rap ring. Steel wears as well, but not as drastically and dogging some route will definitely have more wear on an anchor than say quick run up a climb. If I am working a route or trying something hard, yeah I will build an anchor.
What do you guys think about threading chains around trees?
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I love, Highway Star, Burn, Black Night, Stange Kind of Woman, and Knoking at your Back Door by Deep Purple, they rock
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never gonna give you up is another good song, whenever I finish a hard climb I do the little dance thing with my hands... only sometimes actually... but yeah
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I dont like all intese screamo music but when Im free soloing I love listening to Dragonforce, its got real push and drive to it, I also like classic rock from Deep Purple, Led Zeppelin and Aerosmith
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ya I prefer to rap directly off anchors, If i plan on having lots of people climbing/lowering I always build/use quickdraws
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When you are at the top of a lead and setting up a TR, pull up a few meters of rope, tie a loop and clip it to youself before untying to thread the rope through the links.
you should do this and clip the bite to your rap/belay loop...keeps you on lead, protected by the last piece while you thread the anchor!
Better yet, just pass a bite of rope through the anchor, tie figure 8, clip the 8 into your belay loop, and untie the end of your rope, pull loose end through the anchor and lower.
don't lower through the anchors!!
if you're tr'ing, use qd's or build an anchor. if cleaning: rap off!!!
why? I dont lower through anchors often but i dont get why it would be bad other than being unnecessarily hard on the rope in some cases
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So I went back to the bluffs today and checked out a big roof that I want to work on as my next project, it looks pretty sweet. After that I rapped into Wayback Layback (and annoyed a goose gaurding her eggs nearly to the point of attack) and Top Roped it clean, I scrubbed a good amount of lichen off the rock which made a difference but I still think its a 5.11a. But I then finished by leading another crack that is supposed to be 5.10a or 5.10b. Its an amazing finger crack with awesome jams all the way. Man I love the Bluffs.
WayBack Layback is the farthest left splitter on the face.
The thin upper section of the climb, its not that hard but once you get here your so pumped its hard to hang on to the little holds.
Looking down the Layback section of the climb, the crux is where the thin crack ends and you have to move into the other crack without barn dooring.
My SICK close future roof project
The stupid goose while rapping into the belay station for WayBack Layback
The sweet splitter I led before we left.
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sorry, I dont try to sound good or anything. I just had a question about a climb that me and some friends I was climbing with thought was kinda hard for a 10a. Im not trying to be cocky at all, but I think when the climb was put up 16 years ago the ratings may have benn a little different than they are now, i try not to rate climbs soft but I try not to sandbag them either. It seems like whenever squamish climbers show up in harrison they think all the 9's are 10's and so on but at the same time overhanging offwidths are graded as 5.10 and 5.9. I dislike grading justy for that reason... it doesnt really matter how hard you climb as long as you enjoy yourself, I just wanted to know what people thought
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I talked to some other locals and they say that they find it to be a solid/pumpy 5.11b
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No not really, I just wondred if the guide had a misprint or something.
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it seems like squamish ratings are rather soft.. I grade a climb at harrison 5.10c and some squamish 5.12 climbers can't work it out... and some squamish climbers think that the 5.9 Great expectations is a 5.10 but its very easy.. its a bit weird!
I know, but ya got to love that. My very first time at Squamish, about 1 mo before the trip, I'd ripped every finger tendon in my left hand. I'd tried to get on stuff in the gym right before the trip so as to stretch out my muscles and try to get a feel for the rock before the trip, but it was excruciating, so I was just going to go because I'd earlier told my buddies I would.
First route - I just eyeball a line from the ground, jump on it. Fingers weren't stressed at all. After I get down my buddy Bill looks it up in the guide and it says 10d.
That was back when 10d meant something....well, in Yosemite it meant something anyway:-) Sure made me feel good though.
Ya I love that, you go to check and on-sight a 12a sport climb and all the 5.10 climbers are like 'wow are you sponsored' and your like 'that was boring I wonder if I can climb it on clean pro'
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I saw this in the movie First Ascent, sew a velcro loop onto your harness whre its easy to grab then clip the cam/chock you will need in the crux into it, then when you get to the crux just rip the gear off the sewn velcro and plug it in, it might seem like it doesnt save any enerngy but it really dows when you are in a crazy hard one finger jam or something. I used it when I had to place a chock while hanging on a single pinky jam at the bluffs.
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btw if they finish the climb it would be fun to solo , I would totally free solo a 5.7 route to the top of the chief
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There is a 30m crack climb at Harrison Bluffs called WayBack LayBack (FA: Alex Howden) that I have been working, it is graded as 5.10a in the old guide but I usually on-sight and warm up on 5.10's and this climb is a super pumpy and thin barn door sesh. The first crux is very thin and pumpy and the second crux comes where there is a jumbled mess of cracks that are too thin to jam/protect. you basically have too use some weird two finger pockets and nutty crimps with 25ft + fall potential. Does anybody know if the 5.10a rating on WayBack LayBack is super sandbagged or did I switch from climbing solid 5.11d/12a to working 5.10a overnight?
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thats crazy for kids to be acting like that, if some kids were acting that way towards my siblings me Dad would make sure the OTHER family hightailed it out of there..
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and it also depends on whether its graded for the hardest move or how sustained it is... I can climb a route thats all 5.8 and then a random 5.13 move into more 5.8 and would not consider it 5.13... if a route has every move at 5.11b with no rests I would call it 5.11c or 5.11d... some people are opposite. grading is really subjective... I often refer to climbs and 5.fun 5.crap 5.easy and 5.hard lol
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I climbed 'Face the Music' at chek (12a) and found there to be only one hard move into a crack near the top but I try a 5.11 called 'critical mass' in chehalis at its brutal and crimpy and i keep lobbing off of it... I think some squamish grades are soft and some are hard depending on who grades it
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it seems like squamish ratings are rather soft.. I grade a climb at harrison 5.10c and some squamish 5.12 climbers can't work it out... and some squamish climbers think that the 5.9 Great expectations is a 5.10 but its very easy.. its a bit weird!
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change in plan... I want to go sat evening and bivi in the parking lot or basin at the end of the trail, then climb the peak on sunday.
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I want to try a light/fast attempt on blanshard Needle tommorow, this is the last weekend for a winter ascent. could meet at the gate at 7:30 - 8:00. I want to approach via Fly's gulley. PM me or call me at 604-796-0355
Marc
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Im doing the N face of cheam self propelled this spring... that should be fun
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i heard about the self propelled thing... I dont really want to bike from agassiz to tgolden ears and back again though
Do all climbers like only heavy metal?
in Spray
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Black Sabbath and Deep Purple were really considered metal and are basically the early metal bands, I believe the drummer from DP was the first to use double kick, Led Zep was another earlier Metal band. I never meant to imply that Aerosmith was metal, they are just rock msic and nowadays most of the old metal is considered rock, so basically I like Rock music.