escapetherock

did this ever get returned to you?

I.D. to claim it- escapetherock@hotmail.com

I.D. to claim it- escapetherock@hotmail.com

I.D. to claim it- escapetherock@hotmail.com

Way cool pic. Yeah, we had to traverse along rocks towards the end of the ledges- then you had to go climbers left for a rope length- below the serac looking thingie above the chute. We cut right below that feature, across what felt like a hollow snow bridge. (running belay there) Once across, 3 easy rope lengths to the top.

Trip: MRNP - Gib ledges/ DC Date: 5/27/2012 Trip Report: Sorry I don't have any pictures of the route- my helmet cam died on me and I was too busy clutching my tools during the ascent. We headed up to Muir on the 27th, camped at 8800 due to poor vis and running late. Skinned up to Muir Sat to great weather, clear skies. Left Muir at 0200 Sunday morning, great cramponing up to the start of the ledges. Began the ledges as the sun began to creep over the horizon. It was nice to have a bit of light for route finding. What stuck me was how loose the snow seemed, esp compared to what we had encountered on the approach. It seems a lot of the snow on the route is deposited from falling from above- it had not consolidated well- seemed to be crunchy and crumbly on top of good stuff. This slowed us down on some of the more exposed sections as we had to side climb with two tools more than anything else. When we got to the gulley- the sun had come up and really started to rain down chunks of ice and rocks on us. Luckily the gulley was somewhat protected. However, we found the gulley heavily crevassed so we set up an ice screw anchor, and my partner had to climb left over the glacier to circumvent the gulley. Finally arriving at the top, we traversed a long time, finally hooking up with the DC route. The snow was really soft, and having encountered multiple hidden crevasses, we opted to descend. We found the DC route super slushy at the bottome, with 4 inches of water snow on top of hard pack. It made downclimbing difficult- feet kept sliding in the soft stuff and not getting purchase inthe hard stuff underneath. It was 1030- seems that is a bit late to be on the DC route. Lots of open crevasses seen, as well as a slide on the Ing Direct, near where last year's big slide happened. Approach- skis to Muir, cramps the rest of the way. Good hard pack to the entrance of the ledges. Gear- axe, tool, 3 pickets, 2 screws, 30 m rope, helmets, aluminum cramps.

what is the story with the climber's death? haven't heard anything.

It made a good lunch spot on the afternoon of Christmas eve while I waited for friends. Great place to heckle passing skiers. Just don't fall off the North side.

We were there this last weekend. There is a little pull off with a 'no camping' sign on a tree on the opposite side of the road. There is a good trail in the snow up to the base. Its been getting climbed by at least a party per day for the last week. We had a blast- my dog even enjoyed the snow ramp sections. Good anchors at the top of the pitches if you are protecting it, although I agree that the last fall is the only one that truly requires it. When you down climb right, you can look up gully to see another large fall forming. We didn't climb it due to time of day. Enjoy!

great description. thank you. did you get a good look at the sulphide? was it still pretty open? hoping to get up there this weekend. thx.

I love BMRC as well was with them for 2 years before heading south. Here's a mission fact destined to amaze- 15 ice screws were used for all the anchors. Sounds like it was very slick up there- maybe not being roped was the way to go? From what one of the rescuers told me "I wish I had brought a file for my crampons."

How about "props" to Tacoma Mountain Rescue- sent 7 people up to perform the rescue. They provided the rope skills needed for this. Everett also sent 3 up.