roadie

Nice. Good for them. I met them in Squamish when they were working the Cobra Crack, and then in the Bugs where they went on a rampage. Wonderful people. Funny, kind, inspirational, and very amazing climbers. Hans

I like your definition. Here are some of my favorite "moderate" climbs that I've done, and that I think most relatively experienced climbers could do. Some of these were near my limit at the time that I climbed them. Bugaboos - Snowpatch route - Beckey-Chouinard - McTech Arete Squamish - Exasperator - Angels Crest - Penny Lane - Climb and Punishment - High Mountain Woody - the highball V0 on the Black Dyke boulder - Garfield Some other stuff - South ridge of Mt Gimli (Valhallas) - NE Buttress of Slesse - Brewer Buttress (Castle Mtn, Can Rockies) - The Dream (Skaha) - Illusion Dweller (Joshua tree) - the orange taped V4 at Cliffhanger Coquitlam ;-)

I've descended the KM on Snowpatch with a 60m rope, and you can just make it from station to station. The stations are equpped with chain anchors so it goes pretty fast. For Bugaboo and Pigeon, there is no use for a second rope (except if for some reason you had to bail off the NR of Bugaboo). Getting off of South Howser would require two ropes.

Anyone have any idea what kind of condition this would be right now? Would two screws and one tool be sufficient? I've never been there and I'm looking for something interesting and not too difficult for the weekend. Hans

Went up there two years ago in fairly dry conditions and it was really straightforward. Climbed a half pitch at the second rock band, and shortroped the rest of the way. I placed 2 pieces of gear in total and clipped a piton. Soloing wouldn't be that big of a deal if it's dry. There are rap stations to take you below the upper rock band if you don't want to downclimb. To be honest, the aproach to the hut from Magog lake was harder than the climb.

Sigh. I'm getting tired of my current partners bailing on me before the trip even begins. I'm looking for a partner for July 29-30 to do the NR of Mt Stuart (or something similar). I'm reasonably experienced (I've climbed NE butt of Slesse, extensively in the Bugs, Angels Crest in Squamish, etc) and have only had to be rescued by helicopter once. My partners have always made it back alive. Please no newbies. I can leave in the early aft on Friday the 28th but I have to be back at work on Monday morning. Anyone interested?