Pwelco

Headed up to the Gorge in search of some ice climbing yesterday. More of a search and find and take photos since it was a late start. I have posted the pics on my Facebook page with some details if interested, blow is the link This one is near Mirror Lake at the Rooster Rock Park exit off of 84. Nice!!

A new full insert for your Invernos can lighten them quite a bit, they did mine and are a lot warmer and more comfortable. Still one of the best boots out there. I have a set of Kayland M11's that I like but colder weather can leave me wishing I had worn my Scarpas...

E-Bay is a great place to buy a set of tools at half the price of new. There are those with money to burn that buy the new stuff every year and sell the set that is only one season or two old, got mine there. Ice tools as you know are hard to damage, kind of like buying a used hammer. I will be heading up the Old Chute/Mazama route on June 2nd but choose to leave my dog at home. Have fun on your climb and your right, the dog up there had no ice axe at all!

Didn't see hardly anyone with a second tool on the Old Chute Route and there was a dog on the summit last Saturday! A second/ice tool is not required but certainly much safer when doing the Gates with hard blue ice for a short 15ft section/2ft step. My ice axe is not sharpened as most aren't and it would not dig into the ice unless swung like an ice tool. The yada yada ice screws and running belays are for protecting those that have never climbed before... Nice piece of mind for them knowing they are attached to the mountain and for the lead climber not knowing if they will yank him/her off. If you ever lead a newbie and want to protect them like maybe, if he's your son and your wife would kill you if he didn't come back, might be a good idea... If you look at the photos of the women summiting in high heels you'll also see very little snow and I am sure no ice. They of course were risking the opposite problem of falling rock late in the summer. I'll take the cold temps personally when those killers are frozen in the ice. Heck, buy two tools for the ice climbing you'll eventually want to do anyway and then you can lend one to your partner on mountaineering days

Last Saturday the snow was still pretty firm when we left the Hogs Back at 9AM but people were both skiing and boarding from there (There were ski/board tracks from summit as well) and it looked like they were having no troubles. I would certainly take a good wax though for soft snow for down lower as it is painfully slow/sticky lower down below Palmer after the suns been on it a while.

Updated...

Went up through the gates (left) last Saturday the 12th of May. The shrund had a bridge in the middle so went straight up the Hogs Back then traversed over to the Pearly Gates. A couple other groups ahead were going the Old Chute route so wanted to avoid the fall line. The traverse was hard pack/ice with very little steps for about 20 yards so I placed 3 pickets until we were under the Gates where the steps got bigger. I haven't seen the left/West Gate open (looking up) for several years due to ice but this year is nice with only about a 15ft section of blue ice, an axe and a tool is what the three of us used and were thankful to have something in both hands. I also placed two ice screws (had 3) but there were others that had a guide that climbed up first and belayed from above. The three of us simi climbed up through using a running belay. Went back down the same way belaying my two climbers from above the ice patch down to a nice shelf that has an overhang you can protect under if desired. There was no falling ice or rock at least up until we left the area around 9AM. Pics can be had at two locations https://picasaweb.google.com/100708915293213926786/MtHoodClimb Cheers and headin back on June 2nd Some couldn't get to the links so..... On the Traverse over to the Gates Heading up through the left chute of the Pearly Gates. About a 15 foot icy section here a screw or two is nice to have along! Belaying my buds up through the Gates Hittin easier ground rounding out up to the summit Summit photo looking East Summit ridge that leads to the Old Chute or Mazama Route as its called. Yes there is a dog on the summit! Happy Days! Can you see why I opted for the Pearly Gates?? Which way would you go? Take an extra tool so you have the option to avoid the crowds but not on June 2nd please Cheers, Paul

Went up through the gates (left) last Saturday the 12th of May. The shrund had a bridge in the middle so went straight up the Hogs Back then traversed over to the Pearly Gates. A couple other groups ahead were going the Old Chute route so wanted to avoid the fall line. The traverse was hard pack/ice with very little steps for about 20 yards so I placed 3 pickets until we were under the Gates where the steps got bigger. I haven't seen the left/West Gate open (looking up) for several years due to ice but this year is nice with only about a 15ft section of blue ice, an axe and a tool is what the three of us used and were thankful to have something in both hands. I also placed two ice screws (had 3) but there were others that had a guide that climbed up first and belayed from above. The three of us simi climbed up through using a running belay. Went back down the same way belaying my two climbers from above the ice patch down to a nice shelf that has an overhang you can protect under if desired. There was no falling ice or rock at least up until we left the area around 9AM. Pics can be had at two locations https://picasaweb.google.com/100708915293213926786/MtHoodClimb Cheers and headin back on June 2nd

Went up through the gates (left) last Saturday the 12th of May. The shrund had a bridge in the middle so went straight up the Hogs Back then traversed over to the Pearly Gates. A couple other groups ahead were going the Old Chute route so wanted to avoid the fall line. The traverse was hard pack/ice with very little steps for about 20 yards so I placed 3 pickets until we were under the Gates where the steps got bigger. I haven't seen the left/West Gate open (looking up) for several years due to ice but this year is nice with only about a 15ft section of blue ice, an axe and a tool is what the three of us used and were thankful to have something in both hands. I also placed two ice screws (had 3) but there were others that had a guide that climbed up first and belayed from above. The three of us simi climbed up through using a running belay. Went back down the same way belaying my two climbers from above the ice patch down to a nice shelf that has an overhang you can protect under if desired. There was no falling ice or rock at least up until we left the area around 9AM. Pics can be had at two locations https://picasaweb.google.com/100708915293213926786/MtHoodClimb Cheers and headin back on June 2nd

Cat openings still available... paul@cascadeclimbs.com

Last minute cancelations of the four seats available are back up for grabs. Had another two drop out due to illness so now have 6 open seats. If you'd like to join I can be reached at paul@cascadeclimbs.com and will check it until 9PM tonight. Fee is 35ea. Thx, Paul

CAT spots have been filled so thank you!!

Calling all Mount Hood climbers, A quick note for those that don't wish to hike up a ski run, we have seats available on the snow cat this Saturday May 12th at 2AM. At this time we have 4 seats available. If you are interested I can be contacted at paul@cascadeclimbs.com. The entire cat fee this year is a crazy $500.00 bucks!! so the seats are 35 bucks ea. The cat holds 12 plus gear but these 4 will still leave seats available for breathing room, our team is down to 5 Cheers, Pwelco

Calling all Mount Hood climbers, A quick note for those that don't wish to hike up a ski run, we have seats available on the snow cat this Saturday May 12th at 2AM. At this time we have 4 seats available. If you are interested I can be contacted at paul@cascadeclimbs.com. The entire cat fee this year is a crazy $500.00 bucks!! so the seats are 35 bucks ea. The cat holds 12 plus gear but these 4 will still leave seats available for breathing room, our team is down to 5 Cheers, Pwelco

Yup we went on Saturday 8-02 and climbed Sunday 8-03. Bet this weekend was good also. Looking forward to maybe hitting 3 Finger in a couple weeks for a day.