Jump to content

Ptown_Climber1

Members
  • Posts

    135
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Ptown_Climber1

  1. thanks for the description and photos! We were up there early on the 14th also, but turned around at the hogsback.....had a couple newbies with us, and conditions were pretty brutal....was told it was 17 degrees, and -3 degree wind chill. That, with the soft snow made it incredibly hard going.....was wondering if it improved in old chute, but it doesn't sound like it did much....nice effort getting up on top through that though!

  2. No, I mean skirting up the left side of it.....what some would call West Crater Rim......making your way up from below, initially you're still in the fall line for any shit that decides to slough off.....that's why I threw out perhaps starting higher up on the left side, away from the rock....seemed pretty steep to me however.

    Camping at I-Rock is a classic Hood experience though...lots of fun. Our original intent was Reid Headwall, but listening to the ice funnel through it all night gave us the creeps, so we opted for West Crater....not the best decision I've ever made either.....but if it's cold and solid, then no big deal. Good luck!

  3. Watch out for rockfall coming off Crater Rock though if it's even borderline on the warmer side.....buddy and I did that a couple years back and damn near got taken out by some bowling ball sized rocks....Traversing higher up might be better, but those slopes are also pretty avy prone.

     

    Wow, 3-4 hours from the lodge? That's impressive....I'm in pretty decent shape but haven't ever managed to get up there that fast.

  4. Trip: 6 year old summits S. Sister -

     

    Date: 8/24/2010

     

    Trip Report:

    So I never in a million years would have published a trip report for a South sister Climb in the summer time, but when my 6 year old son makes it to the top of Oregon's 3rd highest peak, I figured it deserved a post and a shout out.... :)

     

    What a day...clear and windless....and a good time had by all.

     

    Alexander_at_summit.jpg

  5. Sadly I'm not surprised.....I've seen quite a few things up on Hood's southside. It's famous for this type of thing.....There and Avalanche Gulch on Shasta. It's even worse there, because you get every yahoo out of San Francisco Bay Area coming up there in blue jeans ready to tackle the mountain. They actually have climbing rangers up there that watch out for these guys, it's such a problem.....

  6. Well, generally speaking I prefer not to rope up on Hood either; Historically I think people roped up when climbing above the open bergshrund was more of an issue.... I was just making the point that roping up doesn't have to mean placing pro.....but no matter how confident one might be in self arrest skills, until it happens, you just never know for sure, so it's a nice security to know there are 2-3 other competent climbers with you that together can hopefully arrest the fall if it turns out you can't. Also, say climber X on a rope team gets tagged by a piece of ice and is rendered unconscious....at that point it doesn't matter how confident they are at self arrest.

  7. First off, I believe you mean 2002.

     

    I don't typically place protection on Hood unless I'm taking beginners up there. It's just not that steep. I've stuck pickets in going through the gates in years past, but I don't think roping up on Hood necessarily means placing protection if those you are with are skilled at self arrest. But as rule, climbing Hood when it is crowded is always a rather risky affair.

  8. You probably made the right decision; we were faced with similar circumstances two weeks ago, the infamous 'ice fall' weekend on the mountain when they had the two rescues. Camping at the saddle we heard crap coming down all night; we actually witnessed two small slides, one off Yokum Ridge, and the other funneling down from our intended route (Reid Headwall). We switched plans also...I was mildly surprised to see a couple others head down there, going to Leuthold...I'm still curious if they made it, because it was downright gnarly. Some of the ice chunks coming down off Crater Rock were definitely widow-makers if I ever saw one.....that shit is serious...watch out.

  9. If anyone lost a snow picket yesterday just below Crater Rock, send me a pm and I'll get it back to you. I'm pretty sure it belongs to one of the members of the group that got hit below the icefall below Crater Rock. It's got a runner and two biners hooked to it.

     

    Also, I lost an ice axe right around the same place.....stuck it in the snow to shed a layer and it got tagged by a piece of ice, sending it scuddling down the Zig Zag glacier (luckily I had a second); so if anyone found one if they could do the same, that'd be great.

     

    And lastly, if any of you were summiting Cooper Spur on Sat AM about 7:30, we got some cool pics of you approaching the summit rim...would be happy to forward them your way!

×
×
  • Create New...