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Everything posted by RodJ

  1. I am looking for someone who is interested in climbing the Marsupials with me for one day on either Oct. 17, 18, 19 or 21. Rod J. 541-408-3500 PS: I have been climbing for 15 years & have climbed as hard as 11c sport. Looking to climb mid-10s this trip.
  2. I will be in Port Angeles between 8/13 & 8/16 & would like to climb at Elwha (again). I'm looking for a morning to mid-afternoon partner. ~11a sport, climbing 8 years. Rod 541-408-3500
  3. Elwha Wall

    Heading to PA 8/13 - 8/16. Still looking to climb at Elwha? Climbing 8 years, ~11a sport. Rod 541-408-3500
  4. Looking for mid-week climbing partner(s) @ Smith Rock. Wednesdays or Thursdays preferably. I climb sport (10c/11a) & trad. (5.9/10b). Climbing for 9 years. 541-408-3500
  5. Smith winter climbing partner

    Tomorrow is looking nice. Are you free to climb? Rod 541-408-3500
  6. Last nice day of the year (I've said that before). I climb up to ~11b sport & ~10a trad.
  7. smith/trout when it's dry..

    Will you still be around Thursday? I climb up to 5.11 sport & 10a trad. Been climbing for 8 years.
  8. Smith on Sat.?

    I'm leading sport up to ~10c right now. Been climbing for 8 years. Don't want to miss the perfect weather tomorrow.
  9. I am looking for a partner for Sun. (10/23/11) to climb in Washington anywhere along the I-5 corridor between Olympia & Portland. I am coming from Port Angeles & heading S. at the end of the day. East of Portland is OK too (i.e. Broughton Bluff). I lead sport to ~10c & follow 11a. This is my 8th year of climbing. Rod: 541-408-3500
  10. Left = purple LaSportiva Mythos (size ~47) right = LaSportiva Trad Master (size ~45) These shoes were left in front of 'Double Time'(N. Point, Smith Rock). If you have these, or know who does, please call Rod at 541-408-3500. Thank-you
  11. http://www.smithrock.com/flash/events/images/westside-rock-party.pdf Please join us for a day of climbing area rejuvenation followed by dinner, entertainment, a raffle and a viewing of the Reel Rock movie (all complimentary). Register at the REI booth between 7:30am and 9am Sponsored by: Access Fund, REI, Edelrid Ropes, Mad Rock Climbing, the Cascades Mountaineers, Smith Rock ‘09 Supplement, Redpoint, Mountain Supply, Climb Max Mountaineering, Big Agnes and True North Mortgage. Registration and after-work functions will be run in conjunction with the Smith Rock Detour. Please contact Rod with any questions: 541-408-3500
  12. A new publication featuring 200 'new' routes not found in the 1992 Alan Watts guidebook. The park is broken down into 9 areas. Routes are shown on over-head maps on each of those areas. Also included are a glossary, a list of common climbing commands and important/relevant phone #s & websites. You can get your copy at any of the following locations: Redpoint, Rockhard (both Terrebonne), Mountain Supply or REI (both Bend) for $9.95. $3 from the sale of each supplement goes to the Smith Rock acct. of the ASCA to be used to pay for hardware to rebolt routes at Smith Rock. For more info contact: felsen428@yahoo.com
  13. Cranbo, Thank-you for your (useful) feedback. In the interest of keeping costs down, I initially went w/ a stapled laminated cover. I tried many different combinations of cover stock types/thicknesses, scoring (single & double), laminate thicknesses & pressing techniques over the last 1.5 months. Unfortunately, there are just too many pages inside the book for it to lie flat. So, I unveiled a new option at the Spring Thing last Sat. - a laminated cover w/ a spiral binding. I polled ~18 climbers there & all but 1 liked the spiral cover version better (the 1 was 50/50). Two things they liked about it was that it lies perfectly flat & you can open it 180 deg. so only 1 page is showing. The down side is that it costs more to produce. So, starting w/ version 2.0, coming out in ~2 weeks, all supplements will have the spiral binding. They will also have: 1) updated route info & route placements (new updates incorporated weekly), 2) more routes and 3) include a map & route descriptions of the cave on the S. tip of the Mudpile. The cover price will go to $10.95 (which I'm sure will get a rise out of someone on this site). $3 from the sale of each supplement will still go to the ASCA or the Access Fund. This is still a work in progress, but I think that I am getting close to a finished product in quality, accuracy & usability. Again, thank-you for your constructive criticism. If anybody else has any other ideas that I can use to improve the usefulness of the supplement, please let me know. Rod PS: FYI: http://www.safeclimbing.org/news.htm#smith_suppliment
  14. Bill, Thanks for your thanks. It occurs to me that everyone might not know who the ASCA is, so here's a link: http://www.safeclimbing.org/ I will also be sending some of the proceeds to the Access Fund: http://www.accessfund.org Rod
  15. Spring Thing Trail Construction 17th Annual "Spring Thing" Saturday, May 9th (http://www.smithrock.com/flash/events/st_09.html'>http://www.smithrock.com/flash/events/st_09.html) Be a part of the 17th Annual Smith Rock “Spring Thing” volunteer day. This one-day event focuses on restoration projects to protect and enhance public lands in and around Smith Rock State Park. Projects include: erosion control, trail improvement, grass and tree planting, trash cleanup, climbing route cleaning, & chalk removal. The “Spring Thing” will end with an appreciation dinner starting at 6pm. The evening celebration will include a slide presentation, prize raffle and fund-raising auction of outdoor gear with proceeds earmarked for future events and projects at Smith Rock State Park. The non-profit Smith Rock Group organizes and coordinates the event in partnership with the Oregon Parks and Recreation Department (OPRD) and other corporate and private sponsors. ------------------------------------------------------------------- SPRING THING INFO: Saturday, May 9, 2009. Registration is from 8-10 AM by the main fee station at Smith Rock State Park. Parking passes, breakfast snack, water, sunscreen, work gloves, direction, tools and supplies are included for all registered volunteers. Free dinner for volunteers starts at 6:00 PM followed by the ever popular auction and raffle. For more information about the event or to donate for the auction contact: Ian Caldwell at iancaldwell@hotmail.com or 541-504-7746, ext. 23 ------------------------------------------------------------------ The following is a link to the 'Spring Thing Projects' page: http://www.smithrock.com/flash/events/st_09.html The Westside projects are in the greatest need (in my opinion), but will receive the least number of volunteers because of their remote location. Please consider signing up for any work on the Westside.
  16. Did he get married? I don't know - sorry. Rod
  17. Letroll & Dan: Thank-you for your input on the bridge idea. I value this kind of useful feedback. The erosion control idea sounds like a valid alternative. MarkD: The following is the reply I sent to you exactly 40 minutes after you PMed me: "I don't remember ever hearing or seeing your name. To find if any of your routes are in my book, you will have to buy a copy & look. I don't have a list of which routes I got from Ryan vs. other sources (books, climbers, websites). If you only gave your new routes to Alan, then I shouldn't have any of them in my book. Alan has been helping me with the accuracy of the info in my book. I would love to be able to include your routes in the next release. This is a constant update/upgrade process. Call me if you would like to talk further: 541-------- or e-mail me directly @ felsen428@yahoo.com. Rod" Sorry I didn't call you back last night. After I got off work it was midnight on the East coast. The only routes that I included in the SRG of my supplement, not from Ryan, where from Mike Stoger & Jim Ablao. I am not able to send you a complete guide electronically (nor would I if I could), but will send you just the SRG section for your review. Your question of routes climbed is a reasonable one (so I counted them) - 97. So, basically half. The other half were taken from climbers, books & websites. After I had compiled everything (& even after the initial beta version that covallisclimb saw) & just before the initial printing, I had numerous climbers review it. Here is a partial list of those who gave me significant feedback @ that point: David Potter, Jim Ablao, Ian Caldwell, Ryan Cafferky (Lawson), Calvin Landrus, Aaron Lish, Pete Keane & finally Alan Watts. I didn't try to hunt down who did the 1st accent on any of the routes, that is way beyond the scope of this book. That in itself would probably take years. I believe that there is only 1 'unknown' route left, & that is in name only. I will never get on anything above an 11b, so I rely on feedback from better climbers to correct or confirm those 'harder' routes. Inside the front cover I request feedback & list my e-mail address. I know this book still isn't 100% accurate (& I make note of that in the disclaimer), but it's very close as of today. So, when you get back, if you are so inclined & you do not want to buy a copy, I will loan you one to review. Rod
  18. Shapp: Since I didn't recognize your irony & sarcasm, please stick to directly saying what you mean (when communicating w/ me anyway). I'm probably not as good a climber as you, which means that I don’t have as many options when it comes to the old Watt’s book – I’ve exhausted pretty much all of them. If the old Watt’s book is still doing it for you after all these years, then don’t buy my supplement. If someone else would have put out a supplement w/ a bunch of new routes within the last 5 yrs. (since Ryan's supplement went out of print), I would have jumped at the chance to get my hands on a copy. I guess you missed the point of my "sob" story. I’ve been accused by a couple of people of making $$ off this effort & secondly, not giving all proceeds above costs to the ASCA. I was just making it very clear that this was/ is not only not a profitable project, but a costly one. Yes, many make sacrifices for the cause & I was/am happy to make my contribution to the good of the community - I just don't want my efforts (& motivation) to be misconstrued. As far as the proposed bridge is concerned, tell the family of the guy who just died crossing the river, that a bridge would be a waste of money. I see this as a good time to get a bridge in there. I will consult w/ others in the SR climbing community & the State Park officials first & see what they have to say, if you don't mind. If you want to let me know who you are, I will be sure to share your idea for a wet bar as an alternative. A Falcon published book is a higher quality publication than mine (although I’m striving to improve mine with each printing). All I want to do with the book is to benefit the climbers @ SR & raise some $$ for the ASCA to be used @ SR. The intention of my post on this forum was to notify climbers that a new supplement was/is available for those that are interested. I’m tired of the attack & defend BS, so I won’t be wasting any more time justifying this project. However, I still welcome legitimate requests for information as well as constructive comments, & will continue to respond to both. See you at the crags.
  19. CC: I appreciate your reply. I did have a number of 'beta' copies out that I had printed on my printer @ home designed to get feedback from the climbing community before I printed the real thing - I did leave a copy with Jeff/Redpoint. I may not have gotten them all back. The routes in those beta copies DID have route descriptions strait from the websites. I later discovered, after meeting with a lawyer for the first of 2 times, that I couldn't use their descriptions (copyright infringement), so I had to re-write all (except those taken from SmithRock.com (Mike Volk was kind enough to give me permission)). This applies to route descriptions taken from books also (what few there were). I was out all day on the East side & will be incorporating a few tweaks after I am done here. My partner & I were thinking of trying to talk the State into matching funds to put up a rope bridge between the N. Point & the Student Wall - what do you think? If they go for that, maybe we can get one between RDD & the main area.(?) I just read a couple of recent posts regarding who you are - who are you? Please send me a PM & let me know. If you are someone who will be making use of the $$ that I generate, I would be happy to help you when-ever/if-ever you need it. Rod J.
  20. Corvallisclimb: I guess I could have written my initial reply in the following more condensed form: If you already know where all 200 of the routes in my supplement are & the quality of the publication doesn't meet your high standards - don't buy it!
  21. Corvallisclimb: I’ve been checking my e-mail for input from climbers that I could use to improve the Supplement. I haven’t seen anything from you. When Ryan’s 2001 supplement came out, I was excited to have beta on 100 new routes. Even thought it wasn’t a Falcon Publishing quality publication, I didn't whine about it, I was just happy that someone was doing something to give us new routes to climb. His supplement has been out of print for 5 years now (i.e. unavailable). My supplement is a major step-up from Ryan’s in every way (2X the routes, maps included, much more durable cover, useful info). This may not be as pretty as the 'Select' book & Rock Climbing Oregon, but it is also not a rehash of Watt's old book - these are all 'new' routes. I used 3 books, 4 websites & ~20 climbers to gather info on new routes. I had to rewrite many route descriptions, create over-head drawings from scratch & figure where all 200 of the routes belonged on the maps. This turned out to be very challenging & time consuming. Not a single route description was cut & pasted from any website or book other than SmithRock.com. This was supposed to be a quick project – it wasn’t. I’ve ended up spending 250+ hrs. & there is no end in sight. I improve it every week & every printing. I bill out @ $60/hr. – that’s $15,000 in lost wages for me over the last 2.5 months. I am not making a penny off this effort – all $ above costs are going back into the park. I’ve already sent $300 to the ASCA, with a couple thousand to follow before year’s end. This book was intended to get people through until next year when Alan’s new book comes out (Nov. 1st @ the earliest (as of this week)) – not to compete with it. The supplement retails for under $10 & isn’t loaded w/ ads or any kind of BS. I didn’t go the sponsor /advertiser route because I wanted to put out a bare-bones guide only, w/ max info in min space. If this supplement improves people's climbing experience at Smith even for only this year, then it is not a lost cause. I wouldn't call the ~$2000 that it will generate for rebolting projects in the park a lost cause either. Since I don't know you, let me ask you a couple of questions: 1) If it is such an easy thing to do, how come nobody (specifically you) has released anything like this other than Ryan? 2) How many publications do you have out of any kind?, 3) How much $ have you contributed to the ASCA or equiv.?, 4) What have you done for the betterment of SRSP & it's (or any) climbing community?, 5) If the answers to the questions above are zero, then who are you to criticize my (or anyone's) work? Shapp: Clearly, everyone knows where 5 Gallon Buckets is, even though it wasn’t in the original Watt’s book. Does that mean I should not have included it?
  22. 100. Ryan Cafferky (formaly Lawson) granted me the route descriptions from his 2001 supplement contingent upon all monies earned beyond printing costs ($4+), expenses ($1-) & retailer cut ($2),($10-$4-$1-$2=$3) going to the ASCA. The problem I had w/ his '01 supplement was that I couldn't find many of the routes - that was my motivation for the over head maps. I rounded up an additional 100 'new' routes. I also printed this with a more durable (but more expensive) laminated cover & included some infomational/educational content in the hopes of reducung the number of injuries due to ignorance. I hope people will find the extra cost of my new supplement reasonable & affordable.
  23. I'm looking for a partner to climb Flagstone with on Saturday or Sunday. I live in Bend & need to bring a sailboard & all to Finn Rock this weekend, so I figured I might as well make a climbing day out of it. I climb/lead trad. (5.9) & sport (10b). I have all necessary gear.
  24. Anyone up for climbing @ French's Dome on Sat.? Rod 541-408-3500
  25. I will be passing through Central WA Sat. (June 14th) & would like to climb at Index, if I can find a partner. I climb trad. & sport: 5.6 - 10c. Will belay whatever. Rod 541-318-1075 (h) 541-408-3500 ©