assbokk

I spent a whole day climbing WI3-4 in Lilooet with my dynafit boots out of necessity and had no issues at all except that the hike in sucked. I would say if you can skin in and ski out, then always climb in your AT boots. If the weather is warm watch your feet because ski boots get make your feet mush once they get really sweaty, then you're F'd. I can't imagine why I would carry two sets of boots in the NW. If I can't ski in, then I'll snowshoe or walk and if I can ski in there is no ice route that my ski boots would be a disadvantage on.

old tube socks doubled over with caps on of course.

Check out Bozeman mountain works http://www.bozemanmountainworks.com/?do=showpage&id=14

look at the knot specs for a double becket bend for joining ropes of different diameters.

I've had the M11's for several years now. They are low volume, so I took out the insole to get more room in my toes. They are great all purpose boots - light, hike well, warm enough and climb fine. Some of the rubber rand around the toe has seperated on both boots and if I sometimes get small amounts of water in them. Not too big a deal though. Way overpriced, but that's them damn Italians for ya.

There were a couple of guys climbing on sunshine on the 3rd and 4th. The rock was warm and dry. I imagine with lows being in the 30's and partly sunny, it will actually be pretty nice there. No chance of precip for either sat. or sun. Ice isn't going to be good for a while. I'll be curious to see if anyone finds any "safe" WI this weekend in WA.

not likely given the forecast. It was close to 0 F at night and in the 20's during the day. At that temp and sun, there was still quite a bit of melt taking place. It should be getting warmer over there this week. There will probably be some interesting mixed lines though as the ice goes, if that's your thing.

Trip: Fuggs Falls - Fuggs Falls Date: 1/4/2009 Trip Report: Fuggs was good this weekend. Several groups were there, but it wasn't too crowded.

Ya, We didn't make it over the pass today. It was backed up for avy work. The weather was crap anyway West and East, so we tucked tale and went home.

Well, it might be a bad idea, but I'm heading to vantage. At least I won't be twiddling my thumbs in the city. Thanks for the ideas.

Sounds like a plan. East it is. thanks.

After looking at the weather for this weekend I'm trying to figure out if I should bag my plans. Does anyone have opinions on what might be "solid" this weekend? I'm also considering how this heavy snowload is going to affect the stability of that pow we've been getting. The NWAC report didn't make feel good. I'm in the Seattle area and can't really afford the day light to drive 4-5hours+long approach in only one day. X-38, alpental and like are on their way out. I was looking at the Skookum falls report from Wayne, but at only 2826' it's going to be getting rain. I haven't heard much about Fuggs as a good option.

Thanks Alex. Damn hard to find "routes" in the winter. The coordinates I had gotten from WAice didn't put me in the right area, so I was really just guessing when I labeled this TR alpental falls.

Trip: alpental falls Date: 12/20/2008 Trip Report: 12-20-08. First time at alpental. Snowing with cold temps throughout the day. Lots of powder, so take big snowshoes or skis. If I had to guess at a depth, I would put it at five feet, which accounts for windloaded areas and terrian features. Perhaps closer to 4 feet overall. With the snowpack being what it is, avalanche danger was low. Some signs of surface sluff, but that's suppose to happen. We could still see some running water under some ice. The Northern end had the bulk of formations with the rest being shallow. A pair leaving on our arrival said they were hitting lots of rocks on the higher areas. Because we aren't the best ice climbers we stuck to lower step and just messed around for while. gallery link: http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=42996 DegMin NAD27 ALPENTAL FALLS,47,26.863,-121,25.269, 3172ft Alpental IV,47,26.941,-121,25.449, 3475ft