mountainmatt
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Posts posted by mountainmatt
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Was up in the area on Wednesday doing the NF of Chair. There are ice flows everywhere on the pass, many of which I have never seen this fat. Near source there were multiple flows in the ~1 pitch range. Definitely enough to keep you busy for a day.
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Hells yeah man! Nice big phat ice!
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Update on the north face:
The traditional first pitch is in "fun sporting" conditions as well, the rest of the route is cruiser.
Go git er dun!
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Hells yeah guys! You better bring me along next time Timmmmmmayyyy!
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It should be interesting to see this guide (finally). Watts previous guide is awesome, but most of the things produced by Falcon are big piles of crap (especially the climbing Washington guide). I wonder what this guide will be?
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Don't forget your taun taun.
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That one awesome trip! Good times!
Where exactly is "the Deep"?
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Warning to everyone, if OlympicMtnBoy is going, he will win all of the raffle prizes.
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Nice!
I got into doing HPs when dating someone a long time ago. The suffer fest is really the best way to get them done in the midwest and south. At least the HPs in the east and west are a lot more enjoyable. How many are you up to now?
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Awesome!
Definitely need to go and get me some ice
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I use the MSR dromedary. A couple of advantages:
1) Some Platypus and Camelback bladders have a "ziplock" seal on the top which has more than once leaked or totally opened during use. Dromedarys are available as a screw cap which prevents this problem.
2) The dromedary is made of a nice thick material that fairly durable. I have used mine for 2 seasons now, and it shows no signs of wear (prior to this, I went through a platypus and a camelback in the same time span)
I normally will take a 2L and a 3L on a bigger trip. This allows you to take water out on route while you are treating something back in camp (the hydration hoses are easily exchanged).
As others have mentioned, the bite valves are fairly interchangeable.
I agree with others, nothing really works great in cold weather except blowing the tube clear, keeping it inside your jacket, or adding a heat pack to keep the valve flowing.
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Awesome guys! Thanks for gittin on that!
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What does drink "special" mean Jon?
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Mike's Hard in Canada is made with Vodka rather than Malt Liquor
Most vodkas have it too. Like Brandon said, its all about finding your threshold.
Base grains for common vodkas:
Wheat: Stolichnaya (made from a blend of wheat and rye), Grey Goose, Ketel One, Snow Queen, Van Gogh (made from a blend of wheat, corn, and barley), La Chance, Vox, Polar Ice, Absolut
Rye: Belvedere
Barley: Finlandia, Koskenkorva
Corn: Smirnoff
Potato: Chopin, Teton Glacier, Monopolowa, Vikingfjord, Luksosowa, Spudka
Grape: Cîroc, Bombora
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only Mikes Hard Lemonade
Actually, Mikes hard lemonade contains gluten as well (made from Barley)
Gluten is the protein part of wheat, rye, barley, and other related grains so it really eliminates a lot of drinks for you.
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Hi Goatboy,
I sent you some of this in a PM, but after seeing others have the same questions I put together a more comprehensive list to get you started. Sorry to hear about the diagnosis.
Unsafe foods:
http://www.celiac.com/articles/182/1/Unsafe-Gluten-Free-Food-List-Unsafe-Ingredients/Page1.html
Gluten free candy:
Packaged food for backpack trips:
http://www.wildernessdining.com/gl.html
http://www.aa-foods.com/instant.cfm?insName=3
Beer:
Redbridge is about the only good gluten free beer, after that you are better off drinking hard A or wine
Bars:
Highly limited here. Childrens "EnviroKidz" bars found in the gluten free section of Freddies, Gu/Blocks, lara, bumble, etc.
Seattle restaurants:
http://www.glutenfreeceliacweb.com/2007/07/27/wheatless-and-gluten-free-restaurants-in-seattle/
Good blogs:
http://glutenfreegirl.blogspot.com/
http://www.nourishingmeals.com/
Highly recommended brands: (Amy's stuff stinks!!)
http://consumer.kinnikinnick.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/consumer.home.html
http://www.bellandevans.com/index.cfm?act=gluten_free
Bread:
Gluten Free Pantry Favorite Sandwich Bread Mix - a decent sandwich bread mix. It is better made in a bread machine.
EnerG hamburger and hotdog buns are decent (fred meyer organic section)
PCC is a great place to get anything gluten free
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Nothing wrong with making a buck, but I do find it interesting that almost all of your previous posts are selling gear...
Maybe you are legit, maybe not...
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Way to try and turn a profit on what is questionably stolen gear. Yesterday on craiglist...
All the cams $85 (now $145)
Tricams $15 (now $40)
Pins $20 (now $85)
Karma...
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Damn, that is a fine set of routes to do in four days!
The hiking alone would be a lot of effort!
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Awesome man
That is one nice set of lines to get on. Anything from the list that stands out as a must do?
I really wanted to get on Crest Jewel earlier this year, but it didn't end up happening. How did you descend from the top of north dome?
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I had just moved a few weeks earlier and apparently one of my friends had put a golf club in the portaledge bag during the move. I was hoping to find a golf ball inside as well, but alas, no luck.
The route was really fun and I had great time as always with Stewart. If I was a little stronger on lead, I would love to try it free. The route definitely sees less traffic after pitch 4, and leading the last three pitches would be "spicy"
Where there really two different Hamish's involved with the first ascents?I am not 100% sure about that, I just found the names doing a quick google search earlier today (I like to give props to the FA and FFA team whenever I can). If anyone has a correction, drop me a PM.
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30 degrees this morning in Squamish...
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I just want to wish you both good luck. We're all counting on you.
[TR] Torres del Paine, Chilean Patagonia - Monzino Route 12/4/2009
in The rest of the US and International.
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Awesome!
Looks like a nice mix of type 1, 2 and occasional type 3 fun in there.
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