Wild_Bill

Trip: Dragon Tail - Triple Couloirs Attempt Date: 2/20/2011 Trip Report: Attempted to climb Triple Couloirs on Sunday. Made it to the top of the First Couloir (hidden couloir) before we turned around. Essentially, it was a snow slog. So much for the neve conditions of a few weeks ago. The entire couloir (and what appeared to be the rest of the route as well) was full of very unconsolidated waist deep snow. We were planning on Option 2 in the Selected Climbs book, so for our future reference, we decided to go to where we could see past the ice runnels (further up the 1st couloir) before we turned around. The ice runnels looked thin and mostly snow to my eye. Beyond the ice runnels (if one were to bypass them as we intended) was more seemingly bottomless unconsolidated snow. I should also mention that at the very base there was a fun short WI3 step to access hidden couloir if one climbs from the left. Though unconsolidated, there were no weird layers or threats of slabs- just sloughing. Actually, this would be GREAT conditions if one wanted to attempt skiing the route. We talked with another party who attempted the NE Buttress Couloir on Colchuck, and they said they pretty much found the same if not deeper snow conditions (up to their chests up high). They also mentioned that from the vantage of their high point, they thought the cornice up high might be a formidable obstacle. Gear Notes: Pickets, a couple screws for the ice down low, maybe a sled Approach Notes: Great boot pack to the lake. We brought snowshoes, but not necessary until it snows again. Actually, with the exception of a few short sections, skinning would be a better way to go, especially for the downhill advantage. From the approach notes on other trip reports that had better climbing conditions, I wonder if it's possible to surmise that if it's good skinning conditions down low, it's also good skiing conditions up high... but not necessarily good climbing conditions.

Do you remember where on the trail the snow started? As in, if someone were trying to ski up (and down) this, how far from the car would a [lazy] skier have to carry their skis?

I've tried them on and walked around my house a bunch of times, but other than that they're still new (with factory sticker on sole). I'll be honest, I got a good deal on them, but the trip I bought them for isn't going to happen. I'm just trying to make back what I got them for- trying to sell them for $250. Is it legit to post a link to a website that has them, as long as it's not my website? If so, here's what they look like and some official info on them: http://www.rei.com/product/719718 I'm in Bellingham, so if you're interested and not in Bellingham, let me know if you have a good idea on how to work it out. You know you want them, -B.J.

HOPE AREA: I think if you want to do some good climbing in the Hope area right now, you're going to have to hike up a ways. Climbed the first pitch of MOUSETRAP today. Wet, massive amounts of water running underneath. The second pitch was way worse (even more massive amounts of water flowing through and on top of the ice). We bailed up and right (not the easiest turf climbing endeavor). Highly not recommended right now. Checked out CRUEL POOLS area. Thin (as seen from the car), didn't bother with it. Climbed the second pitch of one of the climbs to climber's right of Mousetrap (the one lower down and right of the fatter looking road side climb- not especially recommended). Whatever that fatter climb is on climber's right of mousetrap looked plausible, but I'm guessing it had uninspiring amounts of water running beneath it like everything else I saw today. ...But who knows? Prove me wrong... Approached the above climb (as one would for the aforementioned "fatter climb") from the very west end of that service road off exit... 165 I think? The same exit for mousetrap. Through the clearing, across the east-west drainage, then straight shot up the gully. Sorry to say I didn't get a good look at much else. If this 'TR' managed to somehow inspire anyone, I have a picture of the mousetrap area on my camera somewhere in my pack that I could email later... I mean, if you really need your optimism killed, or if you just want to feel better about sleeping in tomorrow...

Was also in the area yesterday (Dec 8th). Didn't look like any way across the river in the Drury area without flotation. Looked like you might be able to cross a little ways (a mile or so) west with some knee-high rubber boots and trekking poles...if you were really desperate. Got on Hubba Hubba, as did another party behind us. Thin at the start (left side fatter by the end of the day than the morning), but certainly climbable. Left and Right of Hubba Hubba were also "climbable" but not too inspiring. The road was nearly bare all the way to the campground. Something else across Icicle and up just a little ways also looked formed.

I'm looking to head out starting tomorrow or Tuesday. Anyone been out there to see if anything's forming in Lillooet or Hope... any more news from the Alpine Lakes area...? I appreciate it.

All the way up to the bathrooms in the morning while everything was frozen (got stuck turning around), but better to park a little lower to avoid getting stuck if it thaws out. Also, boot packing through most of the trees- not enough snow to ski in until higher up.

As of December 2nd: A friend of mine was in the area, I asked him to take a look. He took a picture, which I saw but don't have to show. That to say, in case anyone was wondering, Colfax is not in yet. There is some *climbable* ice on the first pitch of...the right side route...I can't remember which is which. The upper portion had some good daggers forming though (both routes). And that's pretty much what I know about that.

I appreciate the response. I guess not from lillooet, but from somewhere or another, I hope to have something to report early next week. Thanks for sharing what you know. -Wild_Bill

Has anyone been ambitious and/or optimistic enough to head up there for some reason? Any reason I should get my hopes up?

Trip: Black Peak - North East Ridge Date: 9/12/2009 Trip Report: Route Conditions/info: Lower route: Almost entirely snow free... almost. While the Nelson guide suggest the climb free of any cravasse/moat issues, the snow on the "permanent snowfield" has all but melted away, leaving behind a good section of ice complete with a minor cravasse or two to watch out for (go around to the left as a thin snow bridge exists covering a large section to the right). In late season such as this, crampons (even aluminum) would definitely been worth their weight (we chopped steps). Gaining the ridge: As described in the Nelson/Potterfield guide, gain the 30 degree ramp on the climber's left, and ascend to the notch on the ridge. It looks much worse from afar than it actually is... which isn't to say it's great. The first third of the ridge is really quite loose and chossy (that sounds redundant, but be assured it was both). We stayed on the climber's left side for the beginning, wandering upwardsish until it we were sure it would be less bad to go up than to continue along the upper portion of the face (per guide book). Once actually on the ridge crest: Surprisingly, it got much better. After gaining the ridge, the rock quality drastically improved, and we were able to comfortably simul climb the remaining two thirds of the ridge. Time: It took us a little over 5 hours from Wing Lake to the Summit. Could easily take off a half an hour if we had crampons and didn't have to chop steps. Descent: Straight forward. Glad we had trekking poles for the scree-skiing. Special thanks to the party of three that we met up with at the lake the night before, who brought up that box of wine. Gear Notes: Singles from Green C3 to Blue C4, plus a few nuts and tri-cams. We used all of it as we simul-climbed until we ran out of gear, then repeated. Approach Notes: Pretty straight forward.

On a more serious note, thanks for the info.

Trip: Liberty Bell, Washington Pass - Rappel Grapple, Becky Route Date: 6/25/2008 Trip Report: Conditions of route: Snow free, (really) cold until the sun hit. We referenced someone's photo copy from "Weekend Rock" for Rappel Grapple, which made the route really straight forward. The Becky route was the Becky route. Other routes in the area looked pretty clear of snow. Also, I posted this in the lost and found, but again, if anyone finds a purple Mythos shoe up there, I'd appreciate hearing about it. Thanks. Gear Notes: Single set of Cams (to #3 C4) and some nuts. Approach Notes: Hard/Icy snow from the parking lot all the way up the approach to the notch in the morning. Softened up just fine for mid afternoon descent. The "trail" was slightly ambiguous in the beginning, further complicated by a bunch of foot prints leading off in all directions from many other wandering climbers.

If anyone finds themselves at the notch bellow Liberty Bell, I'd appreciate an eye kept out for a purple mythos with blue laces. If you don't see it at first, I'm sure you'll be able to smell it. Follow your nose. I'd love to have it back as it's at its peak of break-in. Thanks.

So Oregon Jack is in, which you probably had already anticipated. I would say the middle section was a bit harder than WI3- at least it felt that way on Sunday (Feb 3rd?). The approach in the book (Don's) is pretty spot on- don't be fooled by the foot prints 75m past the parking lot, they just go through deeper snow and under low branches until they lead back up to the road. There was some surveyors tape that marked a "path" through the woods at the correct turn off, but the tape eventually kept going up and right while the climb was clearly down and left. Question: Does anyone know where that tape/ribbon goes? Does anybody know if it connects with the top of the climb for a walk off and/or a top rope setup? Just curious.