jano

I've been there twice in the last two years. The O'Connor book is good, but dated. Check out Razzetti, Trekking and Climbing in Nepal (get the 2008 version). If you want to be on your own, avoid the popular NMA trekking peaks (Island, Mera), although both make good trips with Island probably an easier self-contained trip. Kyajo Ri is a great NMA trekking peak if you want be out there some and, while it is true that you are supposed to have a guide, it is possible to go on your own with a little convincing. Check on Joe Puryear's post here: http://climbnepal.blogspot.com/2009/04/success-on-kyajo-ri.html The nice thing about Kyajo Ri is that you can do it from Namche packing in your own kit. The trek around the Khumbu and over the passes (Rhenjo La, Cho La, up to Kala Pattar and back to Namche) is a good acclimatization plan. For the basics, both the Lonely Planet "Trekking in Nepal" and Jamie McGuinness' book "Trekking in the Everest Region" are good and both offer a different perspective. I'd recommend Climb High Himalaya (www.climbhighhimalaya.com). An agent like Climb High or others mentioned here, can get all your permits and bs squared away and, hopefully, help you avoid the NMA "guide". Lobuche East could be an easier alternative to Kyajo Ri, but it will have plenty of guided groups, which you might be able avoid if you do your pre-trek and then try to hit it at the tail end of the season at the end of October/early November. This is another good site (http://www.nepalmountainnews.com/cms/), but the information can be a bit dated. Finally, I read there may be some new NMA peaks opening up and some general rule changes possibly being implemented next year so keep you eyes open for that and be sure to ask your agent about any new rules. Oh, and the National Geographic maps, both the Khumbu (larger area) and Everest Base Camp (not sure if Kyajo Ri is on this), are good along with the Schneider Khumbu map for a little better topo feel (Kyajo Ri definitely on this).

Try Westman, Joe's in Nepal and about to head out.

Jake: PM sent. Thanks to everyone. I've got a ride.

It's at the Redhook Brewery in Woodinville from about 6 to 9. Go here: http://americanalpineclub.org/event/cascadesectiona

I need a ride to/from the AAC section dinner on March 15th. I live on the east side of Greenlake. Anyone? I'll buy you a beer. Please email me at jayjanousek@mac.com. Jay

Still looking...

Looking for a gym climbing partner 2 or 3 times a week at Vertical World, Seattle. Evenings during the week or anytime on weekends. I'm male, 40, climb 5.9 / 5.10s and would like to start leading some after building some strength. You: m/f, late 20s to early 40s, preferably at a somewhat similar climbing level, but not necessary. If you are new to leading and we get along, I would be interested in taking the lead class together. Email me at jayjanousek@mac.com (pls. do not pm me as I don't check it often). Cheers!

I just moved to Anchorage from Seattle. I posted a notice at the gym looking for climbing partners, but haven't had any takers yet. I'm male, 39, and would prefer people around my age, but I'm not picky. I'll be leading in the gym again soon and can do most 5.10s. Interested in outdoor partners too. Email me at jayjanousek@mac.com. And, to that certain someone who would love to spray me here, don't even think about it.

Anyone read Mandarin? I need help ordering a climbing book from a Chinese web site. Email me at jayjanousek@mac.com. Thanks. Jay

I'm new to Bellingham and I'm looking for a climbing, scrambling or hiking partner(s). I'm in my 30s and in good shape. Most of my climbing experience is mountaineering rather than pure rock climbing, but I can lead trad up to 5.8 on a good day. Cragging is good fun and I enjoy it, but I prefer the backcountry. I recently signed up at the YMCA too for indoor sessions. I'm motivated, but would prefer people who enjoy the experience rather than someone looking to write their next epic. If you just want to drink beer and talk climbing that's fine too! Email me at jayjanousek@msn.com.

It was a leader fall (two guys, the leader was from Olympia) from the blocky/crack system to the left (west) of the traditional start of R & D. The leader fell from where it starts to round over and hit the wall once before landing on the slab below. He fell about 60 feet. It was hard to tell if a piece had pulled or if he was running it out (I saw the fall from the road and helped with the rescue), but one piece did hold, which prevented him from falling the rest of the way down the slab. I have heard third hand that he does not have serious spinal or head wounds, but does have some other serious injuries.