Bigtree
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Posts posted by Bigtree
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Austin, I tagged the summit twice this year - once in June and again in August - both times via the south ridge from Cold Springs trail head. On the June trip I camped at the Lunch Counter at ~ 9 000'. The August journey was a day trip (~ 12hrs return) and I enjoyed it much more. There are a couple of route variations from the south - all straight forward. Here's a few pics at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/bigtree/. Will likely go back in the spring and try a route from the north. Lots of beta under: "Route Reports >> Southern WA Cascades"
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As the title says:
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"WESTMINSTER - When Ben Cort went to Longs Peak Saturday to climb with his friends, he never imagined what would happen once he reached the top. Cort, from Westminster, was climbing an area called Lamb's Slide, which is known for its icy and rocky terrain.
When Cort was at the top, he lost his footing and fell some 800 feet.
"The next thing you know I was just flying down the mountain without my ice axe," he said. "That's when it gets bad."
Traveling at speeds witnesses estimate were near 40 mph, Cort stayed conscious for the entire fall.
"Total pandemonium," he said. "I was head over heels and I was smacking my face on rocks. Rocks were coming down with me and then this boulder rolled over me a couple times."
When Cort reached the bottom, he initially thought he was dead.
"There was a very, very distinct feeling that I knew that that's how I was going to die. I was just sure," he said. "My friends were positive I was dead. I've been climbing long enough and have been around this sport long enough that you take something like that and you know that's kind of it."
Remarkably, Cort not only survived, but was left with only a broken leg and shoulder, and some scrapes and cuts.
"I hit the ground and I felt my feet, I felt my fingers and was just so overcome with gratitude because I knew that God had just decided to save me," he said.
His climbing group, which included a man with Rocky Mountain Search and Rescue, immediately came to his aid.
Cort says complete strangers also stopped to help him.
"It was hailing. It was raining. It was nasty," he said. "And they didn't even think twice."
Cort also says the Flight for Life pilot took a risk by flying in the bad weather to land in a tricky spot to rescue him.
Cort was flown out of the area that night. He's been recovering at St. Anthony Hospital since then.
It's likely he'll be released from the hospital this week, but it will be several months before he's able to climb again.
"I'll probably be out of climbing for about a year," he said. "But I'm talking to you."
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I concur with Winter. Besides, as you can see from the attached picture taken Aug 7th, there's hardly any snow to be concerned with for much of the route except for the slog from the Lunch Counter to Pikers Peak.
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I bet neither of their boots fit the rescue team either.
I appreciate the humour for what its worth G-spotter...keep it up mate.
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For the record, I was at Rainier Aug 10-12 with a buddy. We purchased our $30 passes at White River. Didn't make it past Camp Schruman this trip but didn't begrudge spending the dough given the well maintain trail up to Glacier Basin, the helpful/friendly rangers we met and best of all - not having to shit in a blue bag at Schurman.
Contrasting the fee/service with my Mt. Baker and Adams climbs earlier in June and August, I didn't see much difference in terms of value for money.
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Useful contact numbers not posted on http://mountrainierclimbingregistration.blogspot.com/ are as follows:
Jackson-Paradise Ranger Station 1-360-569-6036
White River Ranger Station 1-360-569-6030
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Very nice. Can't wait for more pics/details.
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Am curious to hear some views on pros/cons of packing a satellite phone into the mountains. Given the nature of some recent trips of mine I've been pondering buying or renting one but am somewhat conflicted as I think a case can be made that it can undermine one's good judgement and self reliance given that "help is only a call away".
Thoughts?
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Am planning on climbing Mt. Rainier August 10 - 12 via Camp Schurman/Emmons but have no permit in-hand. Does anyone care to speculate on the chances of obtaining a mid-week permit for 2 at White River in early August? Our schedules are flexible enough to wait an extra day if needed but not much longer.
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Thanks for the feedback bstach and Dru. I picked one up at the local MEC here in Victoria this morning.
Cheers.
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Does anyone out there have any experience with the Integral Designs South Col Bivy Sack that MEC is selling? See http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detai...D=1152316084520 . Seems to offer some pretty good value for the money (~ $200).
Thanks.
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Here's some pics from Sunday June 18th.
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Was speaking with Tom at the Mt. Adams ranger station a few minutes ago (Tuesday June 13). He advised that there is road access established to Morrison Cr. campground now. He said it was OK to park at side of road/might be able to get into campground. 3 km snowshoe/hike to trailhead. Snow is patchy along road but at least 5 ft at Cold Springs. I'll be catching a ferry/driving down Saturday and will try and tag the summit between Sunday - Tuesday.
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...Can anyone clarify what he's doing for me?
Clipped this from an article in MountainZone.com:
"...We used a technique called space hauling which is similar to the old dumb waiter elevators (we're the dummies).
Basically the haulbags are tied to one end of the rope which goes up to a pulley and then the three of us are clipped to the other end of the rope as counter weights. Since we weigh more than the gear we are hauling, the haulbags are brought up with theoretically little effort on our part.
However, the bags get stuck every corner and roof and when the bags are raised up to the pulley the three of us have to then ascend back up the rope, so we end up jugging twice the distance of the actual haul!"
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...The Legal Authority for this comes from Title 36, the Code of Federal Regulations. 36 CFR 1.6 Part 7 authorizes park superintendents to create special regulations for certain recreational activities. At Mount Rainier this includes climbing and hiking on glaciers above the designated high camps, and backcountry camping...
This is helpful information Duchess - thanks.
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I heard from someone whom I consider to be a reliable source last weekend that despite the well known policy of requiring climbers of Mt. Rainier to obtain coveted mid-summer climbing permits for all summit attempts, park officials lack the regulatory authority to enforce such requirements (i.e., their bluffing and in the event a climber were to thumb their nose at the requirement and decide to climb without a permit park officials cannot stop them). Does anyone with an understanding of the US National Parks regulatory scheme have any views on whether this is true or not? I'm also curious if the same holds true for National Forest areas such as Mt. Adams.
BTW, I'm not interested in lectures or ethical debates about the issue - just curious about how such a potential enforcement gap could be allowed to exist.
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I heard from someone whom I consider to be a reliable source last weekend that despite the well known policy of requiring climbers of Mt. Rainier to obtain coveted mid-summer climbing permits for all summit attempts, park officials lack the regulatory authority to enforce such requirements (i.e., their bluffing and in the event a climber were to thumb their nose at the requirement and decide to climb without a permit park officials cannot stop them). Does anyone with an understanding of the US National Parks regulatory scheme have any views on whether this is true or not? I'm also curious if the same holds true for National Forest areas such as Mt. Adams.
BTW, I'm not interested in lectures or ethical debates about the issue - just curious about how such a potential enforcement whole could be allowed to exist.
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1. Assuming the snow is too firm to plunge the picket in by hand, simply use the top of your axe (i.e., the broad flat portion between the adze and the point) as a hammer.
2. Optimal length depends on a number of factors such as anticipated snow conditions (spring oatmeal vs. something lighter that requires a picket with greater area/purchase), intended use, how much weight you are prepared to pack, etc. I pack a single MSR 3' as an all-rounder and a light-weight spare axe (the second axe is more versatile for me than the second picket - can be used in a pinch like a picket vertically or buried as a deadman for crevasse rescue work). Ideally, you would have a a couple of 2' and 3' and bring what you anticipated you might require.
3. My personal view is that a carabiner is quicker/more efficient by far.
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Here's two separate routes from the East for you...
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...check out www.mountainlife.us. ...You'll find a chart with all the important data laid out for you for all the major players on the market.
Hey, thanks for the tip. The comparison chart of 10 devices is great (http://www.mountainlife.us/).
Cheers.
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I'll sell my first one to you:
Nice touch. I'll take two.
Thanks for the feedback. The other string referenced above has some good discussion/information.
Cheers.
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Does anyone have any thoughts on avalanche beacons, as in, digital vs. analogue and value for money? I have used analogue previously but digital or dual mode seems where manufacturers are heading these days.
The "Nic-Impex ARVA Advanced Avalanche Beacon" carried by MEC looks good:
The "Backcountry Access Tracker DTS Avalanche Beacon" also seems increasingly popular:
Bilgeri rescue technique
in Climber's Board
Posted
Can anyone with some experience with rigging/using the Bilgeri crevasse rescue technique describe it to me or post a diagram depicting the basic elements? I can't seem to find anything on the web. I heard some vet climbers mention it but can seem to find anything decent on the web.
Mucho gracias.