jesselillis

I'm looking for a good picture of the route up the South face of Prusik, in the Enchantments. Partner and I attempted to approach and climb the South face of Prusik Saturday. I don't recommend pushing the approach+climb (and return to camp or car) this time of year unless you already know the trail, approach and route pretty well, and can move quickly with a rack and camping gear. I'm sure we started up the climb in the right spot, traversed a bit right from the higher trees (top of 2nd pitch) to the slabby/knobby section, but then couldn't find the chimmney with chockstone. Wound up heaven-knows-where-but-starting-to-feel-like-5.10+ off-route, and bailed off some nuts in the dark. The description of the route I read said you could see the chock stone from the ground (to my discredit I did not look for it at the start, and I obviously couldn't see it in the dark when we got down). Does anyone have a pretty good picture of the route they could post here, send me (PM), or direct me to by URL? I'd like to know where the heck I was supposed to have gone. Thanks

ive got some time off in december- about 10 days. i'd like to spend it climbing- i'll probably be out with a bunch of sport people, but trad recommendations also welcome (hell- water ice recommendations welcome, maybe i'll ditch that crowd) where is not freezing? joshua tree? red rocks? st. george? virgin river gorge? or do i have to go texas or mexico? thanks

I'm looking for a partner for a sustained weekend. Day 1- hike in to, and climb, prussik. Camp around snow lake. Day 2, hike over to Temple or hike out and climb Orbit on the way out. Let me know if you are interested (PM) and we can share experience/ability info. Alternatively, let me know if you were out there in the past week and think conditions would be prohibitive on any of the climbs I mentioned Thanks Jesse

apparently no one wants to slog 36 miles to climb olympus this weekend anyone want to crag tomorrow? i'm up for whatever 32,38,index,tieton; pm me if interested

I'm looking for a partner to climb Mt. Olympus this coming weekend. Ideally leave Thursday after work, hike Fri, climb Sat, hike out Sun. I've got ample trad, sport, water ice, wilderness first aid (former WEMT) experience. Some alpine and bc ski. PM me if interested and we can swap experience/climbing priorities. I'm happy to consider all sorts of other climbs if you are looking to get out but not up for the distance involved in Olympus.

looking for a partner to go up rainier this weekend (by any [least crowded] class II route pending rangers' (or CCers') thoughts). drive to the park thursday, hike fri, summit and return saturday. pm me if interested and we can swap experience, priorities, etc. or, hell, since this is sort of late notice, if you are looking for a partner for some other alpine climb within same time frame- pm me.

Anyone climbed Mt.Hood in November (Thanksgiving)? I'm thinking of going up with a relatively inexperienced partner. I've only been up in July. I would be comfortable going up with him in those conditions, but I'd anticipate November being a bit less ideal? Thoughts/suggestions/alternatives appreciated.

i left my 'weekend rock' guidebook at the base of royal columns on saturday, 5/10. it was not there the morning of sunday 5/11. if anyone picked it up, my name is in it (either inside of front cover or on page 1): COLANGELO-LILLIS please contact me if you picked it up, i'll pay shipping or arrange to pick it up. thanks (if there are other, more appropriate, forums for this post, please let me know)

been out to exit 32? 38? dry yet?

I'm sure this isn't place, but I don't know where is, and I'm sure someone perusing here does- I'm looking for a carpool forum to WA ski resorts. Specifically I want to carpool from Seattle to Stevens on Saturday. Anyone know of a website or other forum by which people meet up to carpool (have [small] car, want riders)? Thanks

i'm fairly new to the area, have the entire weekend open. looking for both recommendations/partners for a full on weekend trip. rock would be a fall back but would rather climb (ie walk up with skins on) something ski-able. was hoping to do glacier until recently informed the approach was dramatically elongated by last years storms and subsequent disappearance of roads. i'm proficient on vertical rock and ice, have some ski mountaineering experience (took the class and out maybe 5 weekends backcountry). what was the best winter weekend adventure you had last year? and, are you busy this weekend?

my bc ski trip this weekend was cancelled. im looking for recommednations for day trips that won't involve much avy risk/exposure. i'm new to the area as of this summer, so i've been relying on mountaineer trips to find out what people do/where they go in the winter. im pretty well versed in snow travel, avy I, bc skiing, scrambling, ice climbing etc. have gear for most anything of the sort. forum recommendations, pm's, or website urls welcomed. or- if you are seattle based, have a fun trip planned tomorrow, and are interested in having one more along, that would be stellar as well thanks j

recommendations for cleaning rust from crampons? wire brush and... anything? does anyone put any kind of oil or anything on afterwards to protect them? or just 'dry them off after use to prevent rust' thanks j

im looking into some skis (at setup) for both speeding up alpine ascents/decents and to enjoy some mellow day trips with no purpose other than to get some turns. im looking for a ski that is ok at both (30% resort, 70% backcountry; 30% powder-ish/50% crud-ish/20% on a pack-ish). right now im thinking bd or k2 skis, but i'd like to hear thoughts on most anything. 5'7", 150lbs. thanks for thoughts (review links you have found useful also appreciated) j

im new to skiing, looking to buy an at setup this season so i can start moving uphill (after years of snowboarding- i am not interested in splitboards... yet) so, dynafit bindings ive heard leashes will help drag you down in an avalanche, since even though you've released, the ski anchors are still attached to you (and may propellor your face in the process). i've also heard dynafit brakes dont work very well. thoughts? id rather lose a ski than be trying to swim with anchors, but if you have experience with brakes leashes, i'd like to hear. thanks j

Hello I am new to the NW. I'd like to climb at Mt. Erie this weekend, because of it's proximity to Orcas Island (current home). I don't have a guidebook, only some spray that there's quite a diversity of stuff to climb there. I found some reference to a limited publication of printed guidebooks- is there still a guidebook available? A local gear shop to find it at? Is there camping there or nearby? Are there places to climb where it is relatively dry this time of year? I'm comfortable on moderate trad and sport, but will likely be climbing with some beginners. Any beta at all very much appreciated. Thanks Jesse

I just moved to Orcas Island (from Oregon) I'm looking for climbing on the islands if there is any (cliffs on waldron?), or the closest climbing to Anacortes if there isn't any on the islands. Any recommendations appreciated Thanks Jesse

I've been trad and sport climbing for a few years. It turns out that I will be working in the Sierra Nevadas this summer and relaively close to Yosemite. I'd like to learn something about big wall climbing and I'm looking for all the beta I can get. Websites worth looking at, recommednations for haul sacks, portaledges, books to read etc. Ideally I'll find someone out there willing to take me through the ropes of lead, haul, jug, but if I don't I'll be going at it with friends with a similar skill set to mine (lots of trad and sport, but little to 0 aid). If you have any constructive advice, I'd appreciate hearing it.

I'd like to hear some opinions (hopefully some female ones) on a good ice tool for beginner women. Looking for primarily single pitch waterfall ice use. She has used the Vipers (didn't like them), Quark Ergos (didnt like them) and Aztars (thought they were ok). She's pretty set on buying a set this season, but there really aren't stores around here with a broad selection and there definitely aren't ice festivals (or much of an ice climbing scene) in the neighborhood. I know this is sort of shooting in the dark and anticipate most responses reading something like 'buying a tool you haven't used is like {doing something else dumb}', but I'd still appreciate whatever constructive advice is out there... thanks

i suppose i may get hammered for this one, but hopefully within the amusing comments, ill find a good answer. wire gates are stronger, lighter and not subject to gate flutter or freezing up, right? i guess lockers need them, but wheres the advantage to solid gate non-locking biners? and bent gate? easier to clip than straight gate maybe, but easier than wires?

dylan_ the nuts on the other side of the bolts don't irritate your feet? do they make t-nuts that size, or what did you do so that you arent standing on the ends of those 8 bolts (inserts on top)? i cant imagine you drilled into the sole of the boot from the inside to inset the nuts...

Anyone used these double ropes on ice before? Comments? Also, has anyone heard of a nonSUPERDRY Mammut rope? I thought from having read their catalog that all their ropes were treated (sheath and core) with their superdry treatment. I only ask because sportextreme.com is selling Mammut Genesis 8.5 and Mammut Genesis 8.5 Superdry at different prices.

ive heard some talk that the vibrations caused during a screamer openning can cause the same kind of transient gate openning that whapping the biner on a rock can, and that a number of ice climbers use light weight lockers either on rope end or both ends of their screamers. thoughts?