jesselillis

Hilleberg Keron GT, used 12 nights. In perfect condition. http://www.hilleberg.com/home/products/keron/keron4gt.php

Two friends and I are planning to climb the upper West Rib of Denali (West Buttress to 14K). We're not sure if we'll down climb the upper West Rib (and return to our high camp and then 14K), or do a carryover (climbing the upper West Rib with our high camp gear, descending back to 14K on the West Buttress). Conditions and our comfort en route may make the decision for us. I'd like to hear from anyone who has down climbed the upper West Rib. Feel free to post or PM me.

thanks fromage (name well chosen my friend, how often i regret my own selection...). i hate sounding like a tool. most of the time. bizarrely sometimes i don't. i'm not sure what drives those moments. perhaps toxoplasmosis. in any case, now i'm well equipped with the vernacular to come across as a tool or not, as i choose. tips also much appreciated.

Looking to re-waterproof the outer layer of a GTX hardshell pant. It's GTX so I don't actually get wet, but the layer above the membrane holding water can make for some cold, heavy pants. I've seen recs for this brand: Granger's. REI sells 4 of their products (1 spray, 3 washes): -XT Proofer Waterproof Spray -Performance Wash -One Step Wash and Waterproof -Performance Waterproofer. Not sure which, or what combo might work best. Any experience to share? Or with other similar products? (NikWax?) Thx

Climbing Denali. Leaving things at home is definitely an option, but I'd like to consider it amongst alternatives.

I'd like to recharge ipod, some fancy phone, kindle, things of that nature while out and about for a few weeks. I found product 'solar focus battery bank', which sounded perfect, but based on reviews appears to be debilitatingly inefficient. Are there solutions other than solar panels?

Team of 3. Planning to bring a 60m, diameter TBD. Light is good (8mm?), but so thin that prussiking out of a crevasse is agony is less good. Dry treatment probably necessary since the thing will be getting dragged across snow/ice for the length of the entire route twice? Or dry treatment doesn't matter since it will be worn off after dragging the rope up the first 2000 feet, twice? What do you recommend? Or what did you use, and as a result what did you wish you had used?

Team of 3. Planning to bring 2 stoves. One MSR XKG based on multiple recommendations Considering a different (quieter?) model for the second. Recommendations? Anyone have experience with a MSR Whisperlight at elevation? Wind, cold or altitude have any disastrous effects?

Thanks all for your insights. I'm still not sure what we'll do, but we'll definitely be considering the points you've raised.

Polling the masses. Climbing Denali with 2 others (West Rib Cutoff) For shelter, bringing -2 bivy sacks for emergencies -1 Megalight and floor for kitchen/backup shelter if our group divides -1 4season, 3person OR 4person tent. 4person. Pro: Bigger, Less hating each other while storm/tent bound. Con: heavy. 3person: Pro: better for a party of two if one stays in the Megalight at 14000. Lighter. Con: less space, more frustration when tent bound. Which would you bring? I also don't see many 4person 4season tents on standard online retail sites. Make/model recommendations appreciated.

2012. This year's model.

Longshot. Forty Below Fresh Tracks overboots for Scarpa Spirit 3, Sz 26.5

Have these changed at all in 5 years? What's different between the 2008-9 model and the current one?

Bump. Asking $300. Can no longer edit original post title?

Bump. Dropped to $325

Something like Montbell U.L.TEC DOWN PANTS Something to sit around in when it is cold, with full side zips. Something you bought to climb Denali, then used for 10 days sitting in camp waiting for the weather, and then never again (realizing that sitting in camp, even on big mountains, is less fun than weekend warrior-ing the North Cascades), but still have. I'm 5'7", 160lbs. Sz 30 waist (thanks ADKman). Suggestions for other models that fit the bill appreciated.

Right now I have a cable tie through the tongue attachment point of my Spirit 3 boots, and the Dynafit cable leash attached to that. The leash extends and clips to the nylon strap/metal ring which is attached to my Dynafit binding (tour/ski toe lever). The idea is the cable tie breaks if I give it a good enough yank, so the skis don't anchor me down in an avalanche. But the zip tie has now broken on three separate non-avalanche occasions. If you have a better breakable leash setup, please describe it for me. Elsewise, I'll just look for a beefier cable tie that still fits through the tongue attachment point. I'm disinclined from breaks. Though I'm also disinclined from losing skis. So... Thanks

Dropped price from $400 to $350

Patagonia Men's Super Alpine Jacket New with tags, never used. Men's Size: Large. Color: Forged Grey. http://www.patagonia.com/ca/product/mens-super-alpine-jacket-with-gore-tex?p=83645-0-791 I'll pay the shipping. Paypal probably best bet, but I'm happy to discuss. I'm almost certainly going to sell this jacket. If you're interested, but not in the price I'm asking, PM me anyhow with what you'd be willing to pay, and I'll get in touch with you if/when my selling price falls to your offer. If you see this jacket (same model, year, size) offered anywhere on the internet for less (don't forget about tax), I'll obviously drop my asking price.

I'm planning to climb Denali this summer. I'm looking to connect with some folks that have climbed it (and worked out all the logistics on their own), that I can bounce questions off of. I won't abuse your goodwill, should you agree. PM me if you're willing.

Never used this. Don't intend to. Would feel bad throwing it out without at least offering up. Do a google search for 'Jetboil Coffee Press' if you have no idea what I'm talking about, and care to.

books listed in ajpederson post no longer available. all others, still available

PM sent

I'm selling the following: [i'd really prefer you stop by for pickup (around 75th and Roosevelt), but I'll discuss shipping.] Book ( Author Edition Category ) Asking Price Mammoth Area Rock Climbs ( Marty Lewis 2004 Climbing ) 15 Climbing California's High Sierra ( John Moynier 2002 Climbing ) 18 Rock Climbing Yosemite Free Climbs ( Don Reid 1998 Climbing ) 20 Rock Climbing Red Rocks ( Todd Swain 2000 Climbing ) 8 Rock Climbing Western Oregon- Rogue ( Greg Orton 2005 Climbing ) 12 Portland Rock Climbs ( Tim Olson 2001 Climbing ) 10 Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah and the Arizona Strip ( Todd Goss 2000 Climbing ) 12 Leavenworth Rock ( Viktor Kramar 2010 Climbing ) 20 Selected Climbs in the Cascades Vol. II ( Jim Nelson 2004 Climbing ) 14 Climbing Washington's Mountains ( Jeff Smoot 2002 Climbing ) 15 Exit 38 Rock Climbing Guide ( Garth Bruce 2006 Climbing ) 14 Frenchman Coulee ( Marlene Ford 2008 Climbing ) 20 Cascade Alpine Guide II. Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass ( Fred Becky 2003 Climbing ) 20 Cascade Alpine Guide III. Rainy Pass to Fraiser Pass ( Fred Becky 2008 Climbing ) 20 Weekend Rock: Washington ( David Whitlaw 2005 Climbing ) 12 Colorado Ice Climber's Guide ( Cameron Burns 1997 Ice Climbing ) 15 Colorado Ice ( Jack Roberts 1998 Ice Climbing ) 12 Washington Ice- A Climbing Guide ( Jason Martin 2003 Ice Climbing ) 12 West Coast Ice ( Don Serl 2005 Ice Climbing ) 18 Trail Running Guide to Western Washington ( Mike McQuaide 2001 Running ) 8 100 Classic Backcountry Ski and Snowboard Routes in Washington ( Rainer Burgdorfer 1999 Skiing ) 10 Backcountry Ski Washington ( Seabury Blair, Jr 1998 Skiing ) 8 Bugaboo Rock ( Randall Green 2003 Climbing ) 10 Let me know if you're interested.

Trip: Mt. Slesse - NE Buttress Date: 7/27/2012 Trip Report: NE Buttress- Mt. Slesse: Trip Report July 27-29, 2012; with Seth Bushinsky 60-second overview Between July 27 and 29 Seth and I climbed Mt. Slesse, in Chiliwack, British Colombia. Friday, we approached below the north glacier, and climbed the Northeast Buttress (NEB) from it's toe to the midway bivy ledge. Pitches to the buttress crest were strenuous and largely choked with vegetation. Weather moved in shortly before reaching the crest, reducing visibility to less than 50m for the remainder of the day. Several pitches of good climbing (much of it simul-climbing) took us (into the night) and to the large bivy ledge half way up the climb. Saturday morning again several pitches of fun and variably scenic (low cloud deck and sky islands) rock took us to the summit by late afternoon. Due to time of day, limited visibility and anticipated descent challenges, we changed our plan from the crossover descent (CD) to the standard (west-side) descent (SD). We descended via numerous rappels and oftentimes-obscure trails to campsites at 5800ft and slept there. Sunday we continued to descend 2000+ feet to the old road bed, then out on old forest road and eventually Slesse Creek Road (SCR). We hitchhiked from the intersection of SCR and Chiliwack Lake Road (CLR), back to the car. Pretrip planning Seth and I both read numerous trip reports and route descriptions prior to this trip (namely Becky, Nelson, Kearney and Abegg). I thought as a result we would encounter less complications than we did. Additionally we made numerous inquiries into the nature of the pocket glacier (has caused fatalities in recent years) and discussed at length the best decent strategy, ultimately opting for the cross-over. Approach Thursday Left Seattle around 1845 Thursday, stopped for dinner, arriving in Chiliwack ~2130. Pulled over by police and cited for speeding; first alerted to rescue in operation for WA climbers on Slesse. Officer offered no additional information and was of unpleasant disposition, so we made no further inquiries (later learned my good friend Peter was amongst them, though, circuitously, as a result of assisting another party in distress). Continuing to trailhead (TH) on Nesakwatch Creek Road (NCR), we encountered a lone S&R personnel, who could only add the party was now more than 24 hours past expected return time (no knowledge of which route), that Mt. Slesse is 'unforgiving' and that 'people die up there all the time'. S&R additionally offered that taking my Impreza to the Slesse TH would result in 'carnage' to the vehicle. Of course we tried anyhow, and of course he was correct. Cross ditches for drainage would prevent most vehicles without 8+ inches clearance from passing without scraping/worse. We returned to the Wind River (WR) camp area and slept at a pullout littered with spent ammunition, resigned to a 3 mile longer-than-expected approach. Friday Up at 0400, moving by 0500M. We drove to pullout before first cross ditch and start hiking up road to TH (road worsened in condition past the four cross ditches we did cross in the car the night prior). Noticeable absence of S&R vehicles. Arrived at Mt. Slesse TH without seeing a car, so presumably missing climbers got out while we were sleeping. Noticing we had three cameras between us (two point and shoot, one DSLR), Seth opted to stash his at TH. An hour hike (non-eventful) brought us to excellent views of Slesse, our route and the pocket glacier. Took crossover trail from this point (obvious sign), down to Slesse N-face drainage, intending to take this up to the base of our route. Instead wound up taking much of crossover route descent upwards though forest. Realizing this, at 0800 (and at similar elevation to route base) we cut off from trail towards base of NEB. Rather than taking our intended line (yellow in first picture below) we took a much less direct approach that crossed directly below the north glacier. Less than an hour after crossing (as we were racking up for pitch 1), the north glacier shed pieces large enough to knock climbers from their path. Base of climb at 1000. Narrative of climb Friday I wish I had made even brief notes as to character of each pitch along with notes on times. Next time. The first pitches up from the toe were very much vegetated. Sometimes to ridiculous extremes. Overcast all day after 1300. Visibility down to 50ft after ~1700. Climbing into night to reach large bivy ledge and snow for water. Saturday Woke to low cloud deck and sky islands, cloud deck ~500 feet below us. The clouds ascended as we did, but more quickly. The photos below are separated in time by about 30 minutes. Cool rainbow halos. Summit around 1530 Narrative of Descent/Return to car Saturday We rapped down a couloir immediately below our summit point (not the true summit, had a 60m climbing rope and a 30m tagline). And then followed that by another three or so. Reaching a large shelf we tried walking off (skiers left), but found ourselves quickly rappelling again. Four more rappels and eventually we reached the snow in the col, we opted to take (what we believed to be) the less complicated, traditional descent (despite our car being on the NCR), in hopes of reaching a road before dark and avoiding the snow of unknown character in low-to-no light. Trails of variable likeliness (at one point steering clear through a tree in an idyllic bivy site) eventually took us down to the 5800' alp, where we gave up on our intent to get out that night, and bivied. Sunday Similarly impish trails disappeared and reappeared as we descended down the ridge towards Slesse Creek. I ran out of food at breakfast, Seth never ran out. Lacking any confidence that we were on the prescribed descent we continued plodding confident (well, at least more confident that we were of other things) at least we were moving in the correct direction. At what our GPS told us was almost 1000 feet lower (2900) than we expected (3800), we found an old forest road perpendicular to our descent and followed this until it turned to old gravel roadbed, and eventually into the blast-site dominated SCR. Ideally we'd have dropped a car or bike here, but those plans we not laid, leaving us with a bit of an extra walk. For the next two hours I was surprised every 2-4 minutes that hitchhiking in Canada is as poorly received as it seemed to be. Ultimately a gracious gentleman and his son gave us a ride, all the way back to our vehicle and even brought Seth back to the TH (not without some scraping) to retrieve his camera. Additional subjective bits - 1/2L water is too little to climb with - two 60m ropes or a single rope and a 60m tag line would have saved us some hassle on rappel (we brought one 60m 8.5mm double rope and a 30m 6mm tagline) Gear Camping- bivy sac, light sleeping bag, blowup pad, jetboil Climbing- 40L pack, 60m 8.5mm rope, 30m 6mm tagline, BD cams .3-3 (doubles 0.5-1), BD nuts 4-11 and Metolius Astro nuts 1-6, 3 pitons, 8 alpine draws, 3 double length runners, 2 quickdraws, BD couloir harness, katoonah spikes and petzl aztar ice tool Time/Feature Summary/notes time landmark/event Thursday 1845 leave Seattle 2130 Chiliwack, speeding citation 2200 chat with S&R 2230 discover extent of cross gullies 2300 camping at Wind River pullout Friday 0400 get up 0500 leave campsite 0515 start hiking up Nesakwatch Rd towards Slesse TH 0600 arrive at Slesse TH (no car), Seth leaves camera 0700 Crossover trail junction 0800 break from crossover trail descent trail, and through brush in direction of route 0915 cross under north glacier 1000 start climbing route 1050 J top of P1 1115 S start P2 1145 S top of P2 1200 J starts P3 [magic carpet] 1245 J top of P3 1310 S starts P4 1350 J starts P5 (simul) 1420 S starts P6 (simul, ALL TREES) 1440 S leads another (P7, simul) 1515 J reaches buttress P8 (simul) 1640 S at top of P9 (his lead) 1720 J top P10 1800 S top P11 1945 J top of P12 (possible link of 5.8, 5.10, 5.9) 2015 S leads up tiny bit for better anchors (P13) 2055 J leads short section to 'beautiful ledge' (P14) 2135 J leads another short section to base of 5.8 layback crack (P15) 2210 J leads crack to 'gigantic' bivy ledge (P16) 2230 S to gigantic bivy ledge (snow, thank god) 2345 to bed Saturday 0630 get up- sore as heck 0900 S starts us out from bivy (simul, P17) 1000 J starts up first of 4 'summit' pitches described in Becky (5.7, P18) 1030 J at top of P18 1055 S starts up 2nd of 4 'summit pitches' (P19) 1125 S at top P19 1220 J at top of 3rd of 4 summit pitches (P20) S leads up above (P21, maybe off -route a bit?, lots of lichen) J leads P22 to a ledge S leads P23 J leads P24 to summit (after taking a lead fall (foothold broke) at the base of it and decking- ouch) 1540 summit! 1600 S at summit 1800 after 5(?) rappels, start walking down towards col (about even elevation with slender gendarme) 1945 after short walk, sketchy downclimb (J) and 2-4 (J,S) variably sketchy rappels, reach snow below NW of Slesse, opt for normal descent 2130 5800ft alp and campsites, make bivy 2230 sleeping Sunday 0630 get up 0745 start descending 0930 descent stops, start traversing Northward on something like a game trail, parallel to creek still far below 1030 game trail becomes graveled 1110 reach paved road, blasting site and signs for Slesse Creek TH 1220 reach 5540 Chiliwack Lake Road, start hitchhiking attempts 1320 catch a ride 1340 arrive back at car 1420 Seth returns from extra trip back to TH to retreive camera