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jesselillis

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Everything posted by jesselillis

  1. what have folks brought (or wished they brought)? im thinking of bringing either twins (excessive rope drag?), a single double (ive heard the pitches worth pitching out are < 1/2 rope length) or maybe a single double and a 6mm tag line.
  2. I'm looking to get out this weekend, regular partners seem to all be busy. Liberty Ridge or Mt Olympus are near the top of my list (leave Seattle Friday evening, return Monday night), but I could be convinced to do a shorter trip (Adams or Forbidden or Stuart or something). PM me if you want to swap ideas and experience/ability.
  3. I'm visiting Font tomorrow Anyone have valuable beta for visiting from Paris? Specifically accessible by train and not too much walking? 6a-ish routes (v3) Or any other fun beta Thanks -j
  4. I think in the chaos of a new climber trip, some of my trad gear didn't make it back to my pack The largest item unaccounted for is my #3 BD cam. If you found this and return it... well I'm impressed by your ability to resist the 'booty' temptation that seems to afflict so many among our ranks Playground Pit, Leavenworth, lost Sunday 5/23 Thanks
  5. Have a few days to kill in Sweden, generally discontent with what I've found via a google search. Anyone been there and done some climbing? Recommend a crag (and a means to arrive at it)? Sport or trad, to 5.11. Thanks for any thoughts or redirects (to more useful URLs than I've found)
  6. Heading to Red Rocks with a couple friends, looking for beta of all nature. Group of 3, climbing abilities range up to leading .10 trad/.11 sport. Looking for sport crags, classic trad climbs (bear in mind, group of 3), climbs that fit the season, camping spots, local eateries, off-day recommended activities, closest free internet, and any other experience/wisdom you care to share. Thanks
  7. any of you handy types built your own bosun's chair? i'm reticent to drop $60 on the BD one, but it sure would be nice for those climbs where you know 50% of the time you are going to be hanging in your harness belaying... web-redirects, personal design plans, alternative strategies, etc. welcomed
  8. Partner and I are planning to hit Lillooet this weekend despite >0 temp and possible rain. 1 Advice for places that are less likely to be melted out/affected by warming Ts? 2 We'll probably stay at Mile-0 (or some other local hotel)- is anyone else going up that wants to pack 4 into a room to save some money? 3 Also willing to carpool (we have vehicle) if you are have similar objectives and travel plans (leave Fri afternoon/early evening, return late-ish sunday night). PM responses to 2+3 -Jesse
  9. what did you have in mind? i might be keen. ill check back in 2 hours, maybe pm me your phone number? jesse
  10. I'll be in Squamish this weekend, probably just cragging. Due to some complications I don't have a ride back to Seattle. I would like to return Sunday night or Monday. Anyone going to be up there that I could get a ride back with? You're welcome to crag with me and some other friends that will be up there. PM me.
  11. found some rock gear climbing in wa pass this weekend PM me and describe to claim
  12. describe to claim
  13. This weekend a friend of mine and I plan to climb Shuksan by the Price Glacier and descend via Fischer Chimneys- dropping us not at our car. We are wondering if any other party is planning to do the same route during the same time period and might be interested in pooling our resources to do a car shuttle. Any other ideas or experiences would be welcomed (bike stash? hitch hike? alternative descents) -J
  14. Is there any rock climbing on San Juan Island?
  15. anyone care to share experiences with the or nighthaven or bd betalight? know of others in the same class? thanks
  16. If anyone is thinking of heading out to Banks Lake or Lillooet for the 3 day weekend, I'd be super keen to join. PM me if you want to swap ability/experience info.
  17. I'm thinking about getting a GPS- specifically a Garmin 60CSx. Anyone have one? Recommend any internet review sites? Used the MapSource 24K Topo Northwest? I haven't decided if I really want/need the whistles on the 60CSx or if I should look into a unit that essentially gets you back to your tent/car. What I am really concerned with is getting the unit that picks up signals most reliably.
  18. PM me if you have a guidebook to Potrero Chico you would be willing to lend/rent/sell. Any other beta about the area appreciated. Thanks
  19. I've got some time to climb mid-late March- ideally some longer ice routes (maybe interspersed with some alpine). Thinking of the Canadian Rockies, Hyalite or down around Ouray (or maybe RMNP). Any recommendations?
  20. I've got a spring break mid-late March, I'm thinking about looking for some longer ice routes. PM me if interested in swapping experience/ambitions.
  21. Looking for recommendations for (or against) specific ropes. Use will be primarily sport climbing and top roping. I don't take a lot of falls, but when I do, I prefer they be longer and softer. While I said 'beater', I'm thinking 9.5-9.8, 60meters. Thanks
  22. I'm crazy to get out on some ice, if there is any to get out on in a day from Seattle. I've been leading ice for 4 years, solid on WI4 by the end of a given season- but haven't been out this season so would prefer 3-3+ if I am on lead (happy to follow WI5). Moved out here last year and still not savvy to where it forms up, so if you know, are free and want to give 'er, PM me. Jesse (male flavored, as I am inevitably asked) PS My vehicle does NOT have 4WD, so we need easy access, your vehicle with 4WD or enduring cardio to xc approach when my car gets stuck...
  23. Thanks for the replies. Reduction in weight and volume were large motivators- though maybe I am overestimating the worth (especially if I am not going to cut the number of raps in half). 20% reduction in weight, 16% reduction in volume between 8.5mm and 7.8mm? Lugging the 8.7lb 10.2mm for 10 miles sucks, but doesn't quite seem to suck as much as 2 people lugging a 6.3lb 8.5mm each. It miiiight suck more than 2 people lugging a 5.0lb 7.8mm each. 8.1mm sounds huge as a bail tag/rap line. If it's just for rappeling, why not use 6mm static cord with your 9.1?
  24. If you know of a prior thread that addressed this and can direct me, I would appreciate it. Now that there are twin ropes also rated as doubles, I'm considering getting a pair (of 7.8mm twin ropes), for long rappels, sharing the load on long approaches, better for resuce setups, etc. But I was wondering what others who have actually used them think. I've had some ugly snarls with my (8.4mm) doubles while belaying (this may just be a matter of personal rope management). I'm also wondering if 7.8mm is much more likely to get caught when pulling the ropes after rappeling on less than vertical (most alpine) climbs. Any thoughts/experiences appreciated. Thanks
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