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sir_vent

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Posts posted by sir_vent

  1. Finding myself without a partner too often so here goes:

     

    I've got one season of experience. About 25 routes in the cascades, one or two at smith and 3 in Yosemite, I usually will lead trad to 5.9, WI/AI 3. I did the basic mounties gig last year to get over the experience catch 22. I'd like to do :

    summer rock such as W ridge or S face Prusik, stuart north ridge, forbidden W ridge, dragontail serpentine, etc.

     

    Other alpine such as redoubt, baker N ridge, shuksan N face or Nooksack glacier, slesse etc.

     

    I really want to do a trip or 3 to the bugaboos (never been).

     

    I may or may not have a car this summer but if it comes down to it I can probably acquire one.

    I have a tendancy to push for the summit sometimes but generally like to be safe.

    I dont like loud music on car rides or gutter talk or drugs (just sayin if you do thats cool but we wont mesh.)

     

    lastly, I like to move fast on things like uphill approaches. I'd say I'm in good shape (stuart cascadian car to summit in 3.5 hours). I'm not saying you gotta be superman, but I'm tired of climbing with people who arent in good enough shape for the objective at hand. Just know your limits.

     

    If interested email

    ben long at u dot washington dot edu

  2. Finding myself without a partner too often so here goes:

     

    I've got one season of experience. About 25 routes in the cascades, one or two at smith and 3 in Yosemite, I usually will lead trad to 5.9, WI/AI 3. I did the basic mounties gig last year to get over the experience catch 22. I'd like to do :

    summer rock such as W ridge or S face Prusik, stuart north ridge, forbidden W ridge, dragontail serpentine, etc.

     

    Other alpine such as redoubt, baker N ridge, shuksan N face or Nooksack glacier, slesse etc.

     

    I really want to do a trip or 3 to the bugaboos (never been).

     

    I may or may not have a car this summer but if it comes down to it I can probably acquire one.

    I have a tendancy to push for the summit sometimes but generally like to be safe.

    I dont like loud music on car rides or gutter talk or drugs (just sayin if you do thats cool but we wont mesh.)

     

    lastly, I like to move fast on things like uphill approaches. I'd say I'm in good shape (stuart cascadian car to summit in 3.5 hours). I'm not saying you gotta be superman, but I'm tired of climbing with people who arent in good enough shape for the objective at hand. Just know your limits.

     

    If interested email

    ben long at u dot washington dot edu

     

    oops I wanted to put this in the main forum.

  3. thanks Alasdair! Yeah I bailed on some friends for Rainier when I inventoried my warm weather clothing, I'm pretty sure I dont have the gear for -30 deg not including wind chill!

     

    Has anyone tried skiing hiway 20 all the way in to the liberty massif??

     

    Alasdair do you still need a partner?

  4. My first winter of climbing so I'm not sure what I'm getting into. If anyone is browsing here and has some more experience, what do you think of these routes as objectives for this weekend?

     

    I'm concerned with no experience in -30 degree weather on rainier, never having trekked up hwy 20 when closed (avys?), and not solid on mixed terrain.

     

     

    Cutthroat E face couloir.

    Stuart Glacier Couloir.

    Whitehorse snow gulch (probably will have some nice Ice!)

    Shuksan N face or Price galcier (done recently by some folks)

    Nisqually Icefall or Ingraham Direct on Rainier (-30 degrees!)

    N face observation rock (on rainier)

    Triple Couloirs on Dragontail (too dry?)

    Big Four (face route looks wild)

     

    Colonial

    Del Campo

     

    Or should I just head to leavinworth to check out the water Ice like "the pencil" ?

     

    Thanks yall.

  5. Chris, I'm sure you know this already, but I tried the snowgulch route and it was misreable with not enough snow, you'll probably be able to tell from Darrington. I wouldnt go up it unless it had a good couple feet. However I saw some nice blue ice near the top and climbers right of the summit, probably thats what your headed for. wink.gif

  6. I did tons of climbs this summer, and I can't wait to get some winter experience.

     

    I have a break and I'd like to attempt Rainier, maybe baker and Shuksan. I also have some b/c ski's I want to try out. I know a lot of stuff is not easily accessible, etc so I'm open to suggestions.

     

    I don't neccessarily care what I climb or whether I summit as long as I'm getting out this office and into the mountains.

     

    PM me.

    Ben

  7. I've cut my teeth on the stuart ice cliff and the Kautz. I was eyeing the coleman headwall but that looks like a bit more than I'm ready for and I just went up baker this year. Was also eyeing the nisqually icefall but again, that looks pretty serious. Was hoping to do some ice on eldorado but am hearing that there isnt any ice there right now, so:

    does anyone know any moderate ice routes that lead to summits and are in now?

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