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counterfeitfake

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Posts posted by counterfeitfake

  1. The Grand Wall is fantastic!! Maybe my best route ever. I've climbed it twice. Both times I improv-aided both the bolt ladders with longer slings knotted in the middle, to step on, my personal anchor, and a quickdraw on my belay loop.

     

    I assumed I wasn't strong enough to just french my way through it. Especially after climbing the Sword, which is pretty pumpy, and wanting to have the gas left for Perry's. But I never tried. How hard is it really?

  2. It really depends on what you're doing. AT boots are great for snow slogging. If it gets icy or rocky, they're a compromise.

     

    I will say that skiing in with mountaineering boots on my pack, then sitting down and changing shoes, makes me feel like an idiot. Life is tough.

  3. 181 K2 World Pistes! $80 The same ski as the Shuksan, great for ski mountaineering. In great shape, come with some fairly crummy Voile bindings, they work but one of them doesn't want to adust.

     

    I REALLY just want to get rid of these, if you're interested make me an offer. Willing to ship.

     

    attachment.php?attachmentid=74527&stc=1&d=1266897209.jpg

  4. We got enough fucked up people in this world. either say something positive or keep your thoughts to yourself.. just dont be insulting you pricks! lol. Be adults! Be kind! ... ahhh the world would just be better if people could humor people.

    I don't disagree with the spirit of your post, but I don't know why you're choosing to defend this guy. He's not an innocent victim, he exemplifies the problem you're talking about.

     

    Zachski = summitchaser

    Good call.

  5. that webbing is wayyyyyyyy too thick.

    Yeah, you can see in the picture that the webbing is going to make the hook want to rock sideways. You want those lower corners touching the rock.

     

    I do like the method you used though, because it feels to me like weighting it will work to lever the top of the hook into the rock.

  6. I'm just wondering if people that tour actually use wide powder skis with a rando binding

    Yes.

     

    or if they're generally just mounted with downhill bindings and saved for the resort days.

    Baker gets mostly tracked out in a couple of hours.

     

    The skis I'm seeing are generally significantly wider than the bindings.

    That is not a problem.

     

    Also, does the rocker make skinning more difficult, seems like less pressure/contact with the snow.

    No. What's underfoot is most important.

     

    Anybody still ski straight edges and laugh at all the sidecut fat skis?

    People short on experience and wit.

  7. Is it all dependent on the depth of snow pack and how much weight people want to carry?

     

    Yes, and cost. Get a long one, a few extra ounces isn't much and it would suck to have a 200 cm probe when your buddy is buried 205 cm deep. I think common advice is go longer than 240 cm. Avoid the ones that fit inside a shovel or ski poles.

  8. It is wrong to think that all route developers owe it to you to bolt all routes you are technically capable of climbing such that you'd be willing to lead them.

     

    I see some validity to criticizing someone who sparsely bolts a good moderate route at a popular crag, but this is stupidly far off the point.

     

    Southern Belle is legendary. It is good to have legends in the world. It is inspirational. I think it's amazing that you could read that account and immediately turn the conversation to whining about underbolted routes. Criticizing the FAists for protecting it the way they did is off the mark- if you attempt the route now you will share the same experience they had. Decide whether you think you're up to the challenge before you touch the granite. There are V10 problems for V10 boulderers, there are 5.12 sport climbs for 5.12 sport leaders, and there are runout horrorshows for the deeply crazy or brave.

     

    The world does not owe you a route.

  9. Is there really a 3 pitch route at exit 38?? Seems like the 2 pitch routes are just barely 2 pitches.

     

    Well, I was once at the belay atop P2 when my second fell at the start of the pitch, she couldn't get back on the route, and I lowered her to the ground, using one 60m rope...

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