counterfeitfake
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Posts posted by counterfeitfake
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This site has certainly not become more useful in the last 11 years.
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I'd recommend the east ledges descent on Forbidden. It is much faster than down climbing the west ridge and makes for a full traverse experience. It is nice to finish with the stellar rock on the west ridge too, and descending Torment isn't as nice as descending Forbidden, having done both.
For those competent enough to do the T-F traverse, the east ledges are reasonable, but I still think they suck pretty bad. Loose, shitty, unprotectable, nervewracking. I do agree it is cool as far as taking your route clear around the mountain. YMMV!
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Nice!
Most parties seem to go from Torment to Forbidden, but I have wondered about the idea of climbing the E Ridge of Forbidden to start the traverse, and then going from Forbidden to Torment. Seems like a more aesthetic route, since it has no backtracking.
I guess it might be a bummer to watch rock quality deteriorate for the whole time between peaks, and maybe the descent down Torment is not so great?
What do you think?
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It is definitely possible to climb Lane peak right now. The question is how?
You may still be able to climb up the Zipper or the Fly, I have seen reports of these being skied into July.
If you aren't sure those are in, an approach from the south is a safe bet.
Summitpost.org has more details.
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Having been up to Burgundy both when it's snowy and when it's not, having the col covered by snow is a lot easier to deal with.
If you are trying to ditch an ice axe and crampons, don't forget the trick where you can kick steps the afternoon before.
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Ha, go do Orbit and report back.
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Getting up to the traverse and stepping out is hard. The traverse is easier, especially if you have a long reach. It's as much sporty side-pulling as crack climbing.
I vote: 5.9. 5.9 doesn't mean "easy", you know?
The moves off Library Ledge are more questionable, to me.
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If the weather is nice, and you don't wait until too late in the season, by midday the snow will probably be soft enough you don't need crampons. Also, that route is not the worst place you could try to use crampons for the first time. Be careful while you are walking with them, and absolutely never glissade with them on.
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God forbid the site be nudged back toward climbing-talk.
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Regimen.
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I climbed Liberty Crack back in 2007 when I was basically a 5.9+ climber without a lot of multipitch experience. I'm thinking about going back to do it again, now that I'm pretty solid on 5.10 and have much more experience.
I am wondering about the sections that go free reasonably but are aided by most parties, and I haven't found much in the way of firsthand descriptions.
The first pitch supposedly goes at 5.11- and I am wondering what it is like. I'm also wondering about the sections right below and above the "rotting block", I remember they seemed much too hard 5 years ago, but supposedly are 5.10.
Thanks for any help.
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Awesome, thank you!
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Do you know what kind of carabiner will fit in the old hangers?
What is the face climbing like? Is 5.11a a good consensus?
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It was there last summer.
Chode, did you tear it off with your bare hands?
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Obviously you shouldn't build a belay out of 3 bad pieces, but thanks for mentioning that, it is what I was asking for, and more than I've heard in the past.
To quote Will Gadd:
If the belay is so shitty that I feel perfect equalization is in order then I might go for the duo-glide option, but realize I’m basically being an idiot for trusting my life and that of my partner to a dubious belay.Stay safe everybody.
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I am still waiting for someone to show me an anchor failure that was probably caused by a cordelette's unequal loading of protection.
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Joe also does not believe in antilock brakes...
There's no wrong way, just preferences.
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Sure, or, quit worrying about it and go climb.
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Blake is a far more accomplished climber than me, and makes good points, but I like cordelettes. It's true that they are a single-purpose piece of gear, but they make anchor building so fast and easy that to me they are worth it. If you're wanking around on 5.10- trade routes like me, they're a good way to go.
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I was looking for "the ultimate racking 'biner" and I figured it would be a wiregate keylock. However I eventually wound up going with the Neutrinos.
I find them to not be very snaggy, and the color is convenient. I rack on my harness and my gear loops are plastic, so if you use a gear sling you might find differently.
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Dynafits are the way to go, period. Plum and La Sportiva and G3 tech bindings exist, but what advantage do they give?
Honestly I don't know how much lighter you can get than BD Crossbows, I thought they were a pretty skinny lightweight ski already.
There is such a thing as too light for some people, we can't tell you where that lies. Demo if you can.
I've heard really good things about the Atomic Century for a skier like you (small, strong, female).
There's some stuff here:
You can also search TGR's Tech Talk for reviews of specific skis.
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/8-Tech-Talk
Getting some bigger leg muscles makes the uphill easier. I recommend lunges, made a big difference for me last winter.
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Clove hitch would be fine for a kiwi coil.
Not clear what the OP is asking, though I am pretty sure the answer is "yes".
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One confusing thing is that in the new guidebook the topo line very clearly stays in the main corner.
If you're talking about the new Kramar book, I have noticed the descriptions and topos of SCW leave you with a lot of room for adventure...
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I climbed Orbit on Sunday, and there was a party that looked to be climbing MJD. If it was very mossy and dirty I would have guessed you'd see some signs of their travel, but maybe not.
I personally believe replacing dangerous old belay bolts with solid new gear is a good idea. Be aware that CC has seen numerous shitstorms regarding the replacement of the shitty old hardware on Orbit. Nobody has replaced any of it, and it's probably because there is ample opportunity for gear anchors nearby. Just filling you in on some history.
Stripped Nomic Masselotte Bolt
in The Gear Critic
Posted
You need a screw extractor, sometimes called an easyout.
If it's really stuck, spray some PB Blaster penetrating lube on the bolt first.