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I've seen a lot of folks hook a finger through a biner to orient it for the clip. I've done it plenty, but it sure seems like a great way to remove a finger. I have started to retrain myself to either grab the outside edges (but this requires several fingers) or to grab the top of the biner in the palm of my hand, twist it and push the rope in with my thumb. I'd like to know what folks think of the finger thru the biner danger and whether there are any other finger friendly cliping techniques.

I believe they are dried up beargrass flower spikes. I hiked MB in late June 2005 and the whole upper part of the mountain was covered with it. I was training for Rainier and carried up a full pack. Those flowers kept me going.

Billcoe, if I can make it, it will be either 8/24 or 8/26. I don't know if it would be very satifying for a local since I'd be with 3 newbies. Several backpacking friends and I are doing Mt. Adams via South Spur. They have done some scrambling and have mentioned they'd like to try. I am trying to convince them to stop by on the way to the mountain, however, I have a feeling their interest is more on the theoretical side. For myself, I'd love to try the SE Face. I feel comfortable leading up to 5.8 trad. I've always done multi-pitch as the Jr. team member. I thought that route might make a good first trip as a team leader since it seems within my technical abilities and is accessible if something bad happens.

Thanks guys for the spray free help. Even if I can't put a trad rack together, I'd like to check out area. It looks like a special place.

Would those be the runout ones kevbone mentioned? I'd be comfy leading a somewhat runout 5.7 - 5.8. That said, I think I should put some effort into acquiring a trad rack for the outing.

Thanks for the information. Maybe I can just go and stare wistfully up at the SE Face.

I am looked for route recommendations at Beacon Rock. Unfortunately I don't own a trad rack. (I love climbing trad. It's just that all my regular climbing partners are already well stocked). Chance is taking me by Beacon Rock with some friends who I hope to convince to give climbing a try. I know Beacon is the scene of a few bolt wars, but I am hoping there are some beginner routes that are bolted. Are there any? It seems all the easy/moderate routes are trad. Sorry if I have offended someone's trad aethetics out there.

The best one I've found for sport climbing is "The Self-Coached Climber" by Dan Hague and Douglas Hunter. It just covers the mechanics of the climbing itself - no alpine, no knots, no diet, etc... It excels at explaining climbing movement, types of endurance and prescribing exercises for each level. It includes a DVD to show you how to do the exercises. Sometimes it feels weird to do 'exercises' or drills rather than 'climbs' even in the gym but it has helped me.

This news saddens me despite his living a full long life. My Mom took my brother and me to the "commune". My Mom and Dad divorced when I was five. While I can't say I knew Bill long enough for him to have been a father figure, I can say that he sticks out crystal clearly in my mind. Nobody in my family was very outdoory or athletic and he was both. I learned my life long love of cross-country skiing right there from Bill and Peg. I once went out skiing with Bill and came back so tired that when I fell from the top bunk in my sleep that night I didn't wake up. My Mom put me back. I only learned about the plunge when Peg asked me about the next morning while I was reading about Norwegian trolls and eating 7 grain cereal. I was impressed that he quit his job with Boeing to run the "Family Adventure Camp". Bill taught me also that what inspires you might not be your work and that you need to follow that inspiration where in leads. Thanks Bill.

I visited Static Point on the 4/26 with a friend who shall remain nameless because he called in sick. Fabulous! We stuck to leads below 5.10. The runouts were too scary. We did Lost Charms, the first four pitches of Online and Black Fly. I am a newbie leader and let my partner lead all of Lost Charms. After we did that I felt like I wanted and could handle some leads. So having lead just 2.5 (.5 = a bail off) pitches outside the gym I lead three pitches of Online up to 5.8, placing pro for the first time. The 30 - 40ft runouts were thought provoking to say the least. The only thing the helps is that when you get so far past your last bolt or piece of pro bailing off isn't an option so you realize fear is not going to help and you just suck up and go. We climbed until 8:00PM and stumbled down the trail in the dark.

Why look at the book when one can ponder the mysteries ... ;-)

Thanks for the info. I'd be jazzed to have climbed a 5.10a slab sans falls at this point in my climbing career. Another detail that belated came back to me is that the first pitch had a brush ledge about 15ft up. I don't think our other mystery pitch was Magic Bus, because Otto remembered it was immediately left of Under the Bored Walk. That pitch had a 5.9 rating, but no name on the topo.

Re: Cornucopia. There were three of us. Otto lead, I seconded and cleaned gear which then freed our brave, but inexperienced friend to wander. Re: Mystery routes: We did one route with a retreat sling on it in that area. It sure sounds like your description of Magic Bus. The 2 pitch route I described was even further to the left (SW). The second pitch was harder than the 5.5 - 5.7 stuff we'd been doing. The rappel sling on the second pitch was old and a regular nylon rope was attached to one of the anchor bolts. We had to back up the weaker side with a runner and biner.

It was Cornucopia alright. I've been to Static Point. You can get off route at Cornucopia if you have never, ever been rock climbing before. The start of the route is friction because the flake starts out full of plants. There's a ledge about 10ft up and you have to traverse over to it. He never moved over.

Either he wasn't comfortable with the whole lieback idea or he followed me. I followed second and did it on pure friction since I had a toprope. He was a bit alarmed at the top, so we didn't want to quiz him. I hope I didn't lead him into thinking the friction was easier than the lieback...