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spotly

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Posts posted by spotly

    Stealing fixed draws

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Just my way of looking at it and I can see valid points both ways (garbage, tradition, and so on) but...If it's a new project you're putting up, leave the draws if you want but consider that just because someone climbs doesn't mean they're a part of the climbing community - don't be too surprised if the draws aren't there later. If it's an established route, take em down so others can climb it without having to remove them first or trust that they're in ok codition. Leaving your draws hanging on an established route is no different that leaving a TR hanging at a busy crag while you eat lunch. Don't assume that just because you can't get it done, noone else would want to give it a try.

     

    If you want to climb a route with draws hanging, remove them and leave em laying as your own morality dictates then screw anyone who gets pissed about it.

     

    If you take the draws though....you deserve whatever bad Karma you get.

     

    As I said, just my own set of operaing instructions. Different instructions may yield the same results in the end :)

     

    As for the original post...that blows. Hope you find your draws.

    Proper Belay Technique

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Everyone I climb with has the rope coming out the bottom. It's the way I was taught as well and it seems unatural to have it the other way...to me. As for not keeping the rope in brake position, I've seen lots of people doing this, even some pretty experienced people. One friend tells me he does it because it gives a bit more of a dynamic belay. Not sure of the validity of that but on sport or TR, I'd prefer a quicker catch as I trust the bolts to hold. Maybe that's valid for ice or sketchy trad placements? Either way, for me it's rope out the bottom and hand in brake position.

    Sherpa Beta Request

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    From the summit of Stuart, what's the best line to take to get to a bivy spot that's as close to Sherpa's West Ridge route as possible? On average, how long does it take to get to that spot from Stuart's summit? Thanks, Tim

    How to get started

    in Newbies

    Posted · Edited by spotly

    Alas, no KitCat was seen at the gym. It appears her boss had other ideas for her.

     

    When I started out, I assured my spousal unit that an investment of only $500 would be more than enough to satisfy my needs. I suppose with some self control a person could get by....I have no such control however :) We do manage to squirrel away just enough to pay for groceries.

    Frostnip?

    in Ice Climbing Forum

    Posted

    Mine got real bad on a climb last year and took several weeks before the feeling got back fully. Seems to get worse every year. I'm careful to keep them from getting cold anymore but it happens anyway.

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