Trip: Mt. Hood - North Face
Date: 11/6/2015
Trip Report:
Took a run up the North face and found simply amazing conditions all around! The Elliot is pretty broken, we took the far line climbers left approach to the base of the route. This proved to be the most sketchy part of the day with little coverage on the glacier.
Its funny to look back at my old TR's. I did the route back in 2005 HERE I can't believe it was 22.5 hrs on route. I guess its all about experience and conditions.
Alpine start from Bend at 3:00 am and started our hike from Cloud Camp at 6:15 am with no need for headlamps.
Shenanigans on the Elliot.
High winds on the summit. Conditions got better throughout the day.
Brandon approaching the entrance. Took us 4hrs to get to the base of the route and start climbing. It was slow going on a few sections of the glacier.
Legit ice the entire route.
A little higher up.
Last ice step in the couloir.
Exit to the summit ridge 6.5hrs after leaving the car.
Brandon's first Mt. Hood summit.
Gear Notes:
Hand full of screws, found excellent screw placements during the entire route.
45M 8.1 single rope worked well for safety on the glacier and since we found amazing ice screw placements the rope would have actually held a fall.
Approach Notes:
Started at Cloud Camp and was planning on decending the Cooper Spur route back to our car to avoid the stupid car shuttle, but spent almost two hours on the summit trying to find the Cooper Spur decent. Ended up descending the side and hitched a ride back to the North side. "Thanks Michael for the ride!!! Michael was the hero of the day. All in all it took us 10hrs total.