wbk
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Posts posted by wbk
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YEEEAAAAZZ. Let's get out for some craziness one of these days!
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good stuff! ran into ethan a few times that weekend. man he has a lot of hair!
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Trip: Whitehorse - Niederbrum/Lone Pass/High Pass/Whitehorse Glacier
Date: 6/3/2011
Trip Report:
Jeremy and I climbed Whitehorse this past Friday. Getting to blocked bridge is same as before and road is quick and easy to get to. Hiked road to Niederbrum (sp.?) trailhead and then took the trail up. Made fast time on the approach and soon we were post holing up to Lone Tree Pass. It was cloudy with the sun poking through a wee bit from time to time. The snow was surprisingly soft and mushy for having little to no sun since last weekend. I guess the ambient temps have been higher than we expected. These conditions resulted terrible post holing to High Pass and up to the summit. Shrund is wide open but still an easy step across on the left side. Snow was pretty fresh above ~6000 ft… though I’m sure that’s all changed after Sat and Sunday’s weather.
Yes, I’m sure many of you are wondering why we didn’t take skies. Wasn’t in the cards for us to get the gear all together ahead of time and the snow was so mushy and sticky, I’m not sure the skies would have helped all that much.
For fun, I got greedy in a descent gully and didn’t bother to follow our up tracks so we ended up too far skier’s left of the up trail and we bushwacked out. Took an extra 2-2.5 hrs of fun, North Cascades bushwacking. Pretty silly and annoying (and a good reminder that I’ll hopefully remember for the rest of the season)--we’re laughing about it now. Good trip, great partner.
Idiot patrol on the summit
More photos:
Gear Notes:
Roped up for glacier and shrund at top, placed two pickets on way to summit.
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Good stuff Jer and Blue! Look forward to more stories!
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just got off the phone with FS: road is open again, mudslide work completed
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Awesome Trevor! Totally stoked for ya, you deserve it!
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illegal? why this? because they are doing roadwork on them?
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also does anyone know how passable these washouts are on mtn bike or on a dirtbike?
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Heading to the Dolomites this fall. Plan to do some cragging around Arco. I’ve got quite a bit of info online already. Anyone by chance have guidebook/s of any of the climbing in/around Arco (not the Dolomites – got one of those!) that lives in the NW? Would love to peak at one and get a better lay of the land, etc.
If anyone has beta on cheap places to stay, that'd be most welcome. The strong euro/weak dollar makes things pretty expensive!
Thanks much!
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>>We pass one of our new routes up Vasiliki Tower, just to the right of the left skyline. Clean granite on a steep wall.
Can you elaborate on this new route you mentioned on Vasiliki Tower?
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Scrambles, Smoot, tick tick tick tick! love it! great shots Jason.
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i am a big snowshoe hater (even though i own some). it would help with the postholing from the stuart lake cutoff up to the lake but the extra weight would be not be nice for the fast road and lower trail hike. sixes if you ask me. depends how much you hate postholing. if we continue to get no snow and with more folks using the trail since, the snow highway will be nicely packed!
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Trip: Alpine Lakes - Dragontail - Triple Couloirs
Date: 1/27/2011
Trip Report:
Tim (therunningdog) and I headed up to Colchuck Lake to climb Triple Couloirs. We left Wed (1/12) with a camp near the lake. There were broken spots in the lake where we could get water which saved on fuel and time (no melting snow). Though a car to car ascent was briefly considered, we quickly opted for the option to carry heavy packs and spend that quality some tent time at the lake.
Route was in fine condition and we made good time on the route, pitching out two short mixed steps. We bypassed the runnels and opted for the West Face variation due to incoming weather. Wind picked up as we were finishing the variation and getting into the third couloir. Summit was a good yell fest with blowing snow and wind! Sky opened from time to time to allow us to see the surroundings, but for the most part, it was classic winter conditions in the Cascades. Kept the crampons on for the steep descent down Asgard which was icy and fast. Got some great glimpses of Dragons of Eden on the way down. Impressive!
We left skies at home which was just as well. Snowpack is low, no snow on the lake and who’d want to miss out on all that world-class postholing!!
A welcome shit eating grin
Heading out on the West Face variation
Between the second and third couloirs
Near the summit
Crossing the icy lake (crampons advised)
Gear Notes:
we placed two screws, a picket and a bit rock pro at the steps.
Approach Notes:
postholing mania!
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Awesome TR and good insights. We also summited Tocllaraju in a whiteout (2006 via the W Face Direct). That route still getting climbed - I'd imagine so! Amazing mtn with great access!
If you speak pretty good spanish, you can get made beta from casa de guias in Huaraz. You'll probably need to call some of the hostels (Zaraela's, Joe's etc.) to get a number or two since everyone seems to swap out their phones every few months!!
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stellar! another awesome cc thread in all regards! keep up the good work.
[img:left]http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1162/5161540465_937630f11f_o.jpg[/img]
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Nice job Trevor! Glad to hear you getting out in the good weather with Don!
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My wife and I met Joe in Squamish many years ago while binging on IGA cookies during a Squamish summer day of rain. The next day we cragged together and since then we've stayed in touch and our friendship has grown. Beyond his amazing achievements in the mountains, Joe was humble, respectful and full of positive energy, and always good humored and stoked for a good laugh.
My deepest condolences to Michelle and his family. Truly a great loss for all of us, and I will miss him.
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good set of routes! where is manana? want to check that out next time i'm down there. Lunatic Fringe is just so awesome! Way to get after it - really love that climb.
How is the crux on the Surprise? Pretty tame or not so much?
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btw - PM please if interested.
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Only has one pretty easy signature on it. Room for one more too.
$40 at the park entrance, $30 from me or trade me something cool like a guidebook. I have plenty of protection, slings and draws, but open to other random gear. Cash is best.
I'm in Ballard but around the city often.
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- Climber’s Guidebook to Smith Rock $5
- Trekking in the Patagonian Andes Lonely Planet $5 (SOLD)
- Ice and Mixed Climbing Book by Will Gadd – brand new - $14
- The Andes of Bolivia – Adventures & a Climbing Guide – Alain Mesili - brand new - $10
- Trekking in Tibet: A Traveler's Guide - 2nd Edition - excellent condition - $9
Also open to trades!
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nice work out there!
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nice work you two! way to get after it.
Looking mighty handsome there Aaron!
August: Bugaboos
in Climbing Partners
Posted
I'm going to be with a friend in the bugaboos from july31/aug 1st - aug 6 or so. Any chance anyone will be there around the same time?
Looking for two things:
a) I'd love to stay on a few days and climb more if that works for you.
b) If you're returning towards Seattle (or via Spokane) near Aug 6-8th, I'd love to grab a ride and buy you beer, share in paying for gas/driving and all that good stuff.
PM if you are interested.