daveheinbach

Trip: WA Pass - S. Early Winter Spire - East Buttress Direct Date: 6/29/2009 Trip Report: Devin Bishop and I attempted the route last weekend. While rapping with our singe 60m rope and negotiating the usual shenanigans associated with not having enough rope, we discovered that there is a big block on the route that is loose and ready to fly. Devin actually made it move. It's right below the first 9+ roof crux, at a small tree growing out of the crack. Caution is advised.

You betcha. Wish you could make it!

Hi all, I'm looking to get up to the icefields parkway over my x-mas/new year's break. I have time available starting Sun. Dec.23 through Sunday Jan. 6. I'd like to spend a good chunk of that time (maybe not all) climbing ice in the WI3-4 range. Mainly looking to climb multi-pitch stuff. Drop a pm if anyone is interested. Dave

I know I never post so here's a quick check in. Here's a condensed account of the summer: Eldorado, std. route, summit, working Baker, N Ridge, summit, private Stuart, Sherpa Glacier, poor conditions, private Baker, Easton, 3 times, summit, working Baker, CD, summit, working Triumph, NE Buttress, summit, private Sahale, via Quien Sabe, summit, private Forbidden, W Ridge, weathered off, private Forbidden, W ridge, too slow, working Goat mtn, NW couloir, summit, private Robson, N face, too tired and sore back, private Various days at Vantage, Exit 38, Leavenworth, Castle Rock, and Index, both private and working, Breakfast of Champions at Index being the only route personally notable. I have October, November, and December available to climb, and then anticipate working in South America for January and February. I'm living in Bellingham and would love to get into the alpine as much as possible in that time. With a willingness to not see too much and climb easier routes, climbing in the shoulder season should be feasible. I'm particularly interested in meeting people who can get out for 3-4-5-10 days at a time for some of the more remote objectives, assuming that we get along of course. Hope everyone had a great season! Dave

Thanks for the locale info! Took the split to icicle creek this weekend to approach with, but it was too shallow.

Justin_RR and I went there this weekend... The main flow is not there yet, and the flow on the right is only a few inches thick. We entertained ourselves with scrambling and rappelling.

I wish I would have read that post before we headed out! We tried for some ice in leavenworth and got shut down... too thin! But we got plenty of exercise digging the car out

Justin doesn't want to walk that far, and I can't blame hime because snowshoes suck. So he's brewing up another plan. You guys have fun; I look forward to hearing about the adventure.

Sounds like the snow will be even lower than on the 17th, so the idea of finding a direct xc route to the toe sounds appealing. When on the glacier last time I noticed we were above a significant rollover; it would be sweet to kind of contour right to the seracs, eh? I'm gonna call Justin_RR and get a ride with him Saturday AM. He has snowshoes and I splitboard. Sounds like if nothing else it'll be a good day for testing the split as an ice-approach system. What time are people thinking about being up there?

The NWAC forecast is calling for Considerable danger above 4-5k, Moderate below. I think the seracs are at about 4-5k. As I remember, getting to the seracs didn't involve crossing avalance terrain, but I may be mistaken. The seracs are big enough to place 3-4-5-6 screws depending on pucker factor, so I figure a few feet of snow won't change things too much. Good call on the skis though. It could give me a chance to try out the split board as an approach tool.

Let's keep talking as the week progresses, eh?

I was talking with Justin_RR about heading up maybe for a day Saturday, and was wondering if anybody else would be interested. Last time I was there we swapped short leads with a 8.1 half rope folded in half and it worked great. It was way more fun that just TR'ing.

Thanks for the heads up! I'm tracking it, but weekdays are tight for me right now.

This sounds like fun... My weekday nights are pretty full right now but I'm going to monitor the thread for sure.

I swapped a Ride 163 that was cut with the Voile kit, with my buddy Larry, for a bike frame. All the times he and I went out back east I would either be slogging or have snowshoes, and both suck. Hell, one time I used my nordic gear to get to the hill. Talk about redundancy! I just moved here last winter, so I haven't used the stuff yet. I got out on some alpine adventures though, dug a few pits, been learning what I can, and this winter I'm taking the Level I course with Gary Brill. So I'm excited to start putting the info to use out there. After bailing on Stuarts' Ice cliff glacier due to hazardous conditions, and then having it come down that evening, I'm also excited about playing it pretty dang safe, so I never ever have to use that fancy barryvox, or the Avalung. <--- I just like this gremlin!

Thanks! That drytooling evening sounds fun but PDX is too far for me for an evening.

OK, so I'm new to this area. Where the hell is PDX?

I know you're out there, and I'm looking for partners. "Slow enough that nobody thinks I'm good, fast enough that nobody thinks I'm a beginner."

hmmm, blue jacket on me, i'm going to try and find the lower area mentioned in the beta, below the 'hidden camp'

I was planning on heading up there this Sunday if anyone's interested.

...and want to climb. easy alpine, or maybe a big volcano. was looking at rainier if avy conditions settle down, but i'm not sure i know enough about it to tell. i'm experienced on rock but a snow newbie.

Climb, bc splitboard, xc ski, it doesn't matter. It's going to be a beautiful weekend and I want to play in the snow! WHEE! dave 206-856-5682

I'd be in, except for that dang work thing... if you end up postponing till fri. or the weekend let me know! Otherwise, good luck!

I feel your pain... happened to me last fall, 2 in my ring finger. My highly scientific recovery plan involved not climbing and getting very weak, so that as I retrained my forearms my finger would come along for the ride. So 4 months later it seems to be ready to rehabilitate, with the usual limited extension. Time off to avoid chronic re-injury seems to be the best medicine. Looks like it's time to explore other interests. Best wishes!