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underworld

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    [TR] Yosemite, El Cap - Tangerine Trip 5/19/2008

    in California

    Posted

    Did you have "sea legs" after 4 days on the wall?

     

    between that, the celebratory Marlboro red (i don't smoke) and the PBR... YES

     

     

    It's a shame they didn't leave some of the old dowel ladder pitches. Maybe a bolt every 30ft or so would have been fine but whatever. Great job getting up the capitan

     

    thanks. yah, that could have added a little spice/notstalgia/fun and all. but, i guess this way it prevents gapers (us) from shotty replacement if one blows.

     

     

     

     

    WTF? Spectra/Dyneema cord as prusik??

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    i don't think you can put a blanket of whether they are ok for prusiks. what's the prusik used for? need to go on a fixed line? is it part of an anchor? etc etc...

     

    there are a ton of uses for prusiks. i would be fine using the skinny stuff for some applications and would lean away from it in others.

     

    i wouldn't go 'apeshit' up at the local shop quite yet...maybe talk to em about it tho. each might learn something

     

     

    [TR] Yosemite Valley - Reed's Direct - Nutcracker a few others... 6/4/2008

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    it was a low key, yet whirlwind trip...this was my oldest boy's and Mr. Radon's first climbing trip to the valley...i think they were both, at times, spellbound, shocked, overwhelmed, amazed, pleased and beaten soundly...all in all a tremendous trip...

     

    I saw a movie with Ron Kauk narrating and personally introducing the film on Saturday night with Drew and Jdog (Radon chose to watch "Rambo" at camp instead...:lmao:, my boy is more sophisticated than him!). The movie was really more about the valley, in its seasons, seen from Kauk's eyes than a true climbing flick. In fact, there was probably only 10-15 minutes of actual footage of him climbing...but it was a lot of scenery and his reflections on a lifetime spent in what some consider to be a sacred place. The film was called "Return to Balance: a Climber's perspective on a lifetime in the valley"...its been on PBS...

     

    I was/am hoping that Drew sees this side of climbing, and the campfire side of climbing, and the camaraderie side of climbing, complete with the shittalking, s'more eating, dirt bag living than the euro sporto model of crushing routes and competition and teams etc.

     

    For this, i can see why Dwayner appears bitter and i can see his nostalgic look back into time...

     

    saw that movie/presentation while i was there last month... some uninterested kid fell asleep in the front row. Ron woke him up and gave him a free book for sleeping thru the show. it was pretty classic! the kid was totally dazed and had no idea why he was getting the book.

    First Trad Fall

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    1st fall on gear was aiding in the rain at squamish. philistine grove, i think. anyway, a #4 bd nut caught and the wire of the nut was caught in the gate of a doval (the old dovals have a step from the gate stop thing as opposed to newer ones that have a ramp...whatever...it was nearly crossloaded)

     

    1st free-climb lead fall on gear was the fault in leavenworth. i had only placed a hex in some flake down low - only piece of gear). well, coming out of the chimney, i broke off a hold and took a ride. stopped about a foot off the ground. finished off the climb and went on to go up catapult, where another hold broke off on me (with no fall). we bailed and went drinking.

    Thanks Dennis! -Impeach the Bastard!

    in Spray

    Posted

    The man speaks truth.

     

    The man is a psychopath, he is absolutely crazy. He is nutz and should be taken off the air. People like him should not be able to have a voice that loud or be able to influence others. He says being a liberal is a disease. What a joke.

     

     

     

    lefties against free speech

    McCain speech

    in Spray

    Posted

    The media just shows what sells. You have to look at what these people stand for and forget the media spray. Get them in a debate and listen to what they say.

     

    :tup:

     

     

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