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underworld

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Posts posted by underworld


  1. adjustable daisies:

    easydaisy.jpg

     

    old fashion kind:

    380045_Dynex-Daisy.jpg

     

    either one will work for aid climbing...and discusions can go on and on about which is better. i prefer the adjustable ones but was very resistant to the change. you can probably do a search here or on supertopo for said long discusions.


  2. Trip: Utah - Fisher Towers: Kingfisher - Colorado Route

     

    Date: 4/4/2008

     

    Trip Report:

    So lazy saturday and the weather's changing - here's some desert stoke from earlier this year. Just a quick photo-TR.

     

    I was living in Salt Lake City earlier this year and I wanted to see the desert towers. I also wanted to see what it took to solo a 'wall'. This was my first time to solo anything beyond just short fixing pitches. The climbing was a lot of rivets and drilled angles but mixed in there was some 5.8 free climbing and some C2 sandstone aid. I think it was about 5 or 6 pitches (grade IV) and leads to a beautiful flat summit overlooking the desert. I managed to get back to the car and not need a headlamp w00t!

     

    Early morning start, but not too early. Kingfisher is on the left

    2392222505_8eb73c5a49_b.jpg

     

    The start: bolt ladder to 5.8 chimney

    2392222515_35799ec837.jpg

     

    Looking up at the 1st chimney...will it be as muddy and bad as 'they' say...???

    2392222525_0f8a4bc0d7.jpg

     

     

    Nah... not so bad. and there's actually some, errr, gear.

    2392222539_19c13ed6e3.jpg

     

    whew... out of the chimney and cleaning p2

    2392222549_1f1582f1aa.jpg

     

    Combining pitches is fastarrrr...

    2392244665_13af371227.jpg

     

    "...i can see my car from here....

    2392244695_e4512c7a1d.jpg

     

    the last anchor before the last chimney pitch(a keen eye will be able to see how i almost fq'ed myself here...)

    2392244699_df430b7bd7.jpg

     

    i'm stuck... really i was for a while, so i took a picture

    2392244707_7d68bd8fb4.jpg

     

    free and on top

    2392244717_94e8e6e405.jpg

     

    the titan looks bitchin!!

    2393091872_8e20db3f8c_b.jpg

     

    the trail

    2393091886_2312f3374c.jpg

     

    back at the car

    2393091916_ba9db4be72_b.jpg

     

    Gear Notes:

    you can pretty much do this w/ a single set of camalots, offset aliens, and rivet hangers.

     

    Approach Notes:

    RAD!


  3. thanks all...

     

    answers:

    far off shots - tom evans aka elcap pics sits on the bridge next to the meadows all day every day during the climbing season. every evening he posts pictures on supertaco and gives and 'el cap report'. the guy know what is going on w/ every team on the wall and takes bitching pictures w/ a bitchin lense. it's a great read and the gives a reason to make it thru the day as a cubical puke.

     

    clean- for us, we probably hammered more than others... the black tower took me a few beaks. two equlized off the tip of the tower - if you fall there you get hurt. probably 2 or 3 more beaks on the rest of the route. 1 small head near the top of p9 and then a couple angles here and there on the rest of the route. we are style-less cowards, but whatever. from what i hear, there is nearly the same amount of fixed gear as pre-cleanup.

     

    fall in the valley:

    very few leaves were turning when we were there, just up high in some gulleys. i think i prefer spring. the waterfalls are big and the belays don't smell so bad...but it's hard to complain about being in the valley.


  4. Trip: Yosemite - El Capitan - Zodiac

     

    Date: 10/15/2008

     

    Trip Report:

    ...so there i was, pooping on the top of el-cap and it was snowing. it was 95 degrees shuttling loads 4 days ago.... "i gotta come back and do this again" i thought to myself. This was in May of this year after climbing tangerine trip. In the next few months el cap is still on my mind. Do i push my luck and try this thing again? Was it a fluke? What makes Zodiac so classic? Should i spend my vacation back in the same place? So many questions just go away when you start up the wall.

     

    We have this running joke that everything on the valley floor in yosemite takes 4 hours. It's not really that much of a joke, and certainly motivates you to get moving and get on the wall and out of the mess of the tourons and traffic. The valley is very much like bellevue square. just substitute the 'cougars' with bears.

     

    Anyway, all this just leads up to finally being packed and shuttling loads to the base of Zodiac. We were going full wall style with redundant ghettoblasters, a box of wine, an arsenal or iron and more chef-boy-r-d than i care to admit. It takes a day for the two of us, myself: bob and my partner: ryan, to organize and shuttle the 2 loads to the base.

     

    The next day we go back with our food and climb/haul two pitches. A trip report we read earlier said "if you can climb P1 of zodiac, you can climb zodiac". Not sure i totally buy that, but it did provide the closes thing to a fall in our 5 days of climbing. To keep the pitch clean was 3 inverted camhooks in a row to reach the anchor. well, as i was placing the 3rd camhook - the one i was standing on popped but i was caught by the one i had just placed. so, does it count if you fall up to a camhook?? whatever.

     

    racking up at the base

    2972717730_d762a9d6fa.jpg

     

    Cleaning pitch 1

    2967489034_b06a700652.jpg

     

    Hauling P1photo credit for all distance pics: tom evans

    2972705848_41e685213b_b.jpg

     

    Leading P2

    2967489062_f37637e86a_b.jpg

     

     

    so we had the 1st two pitches fixed and hauled...off to the buffet!!

     

    The next morning was an early one as we had a long day ahead. the plan was to jug the 2 pitches and lead another 4. luckily these were the easiest pitches of the route with many bolts and some easy free climbing.

     

     

    hooking on p5

    2972717700_8b17813a60.jpg

     

    to a reachy rivet

    2972717738_90ceac0c73.jpg

     

    to the first bivy

    2967518528_be202d704d.jpg

     

    cleanliness is next to godliness

    2971875279_031efe0825_b.jpg

     

    we were now getting to the meat and potatoes of the route and some very classic terrain. from the black tower, through the gray circle, the nipple pitch and the mark of zorro. ok, so now we are understanding why this is considered such a classic line.

     

    the black tower has some thin nailing

    2971875285_48efba7e6e.jpg

     

    cleaning above the black tower

    2972705820_02c89e016b_b.jpg

     

    same pic as above...from another perspective

    2967489078_96632d9aa7.jpg

     

    going into the gray circle

    2967518522_e29d097f2f_b.jpg

     

    pitch 9...whatta beauty!

    2972709170_7f4f50fe34_b.jpg

     

    mid pitch 10

    2971868469_95bf0e07c7.jpg

     

    lowering out while cleaing the nipple (p10)

    2972705816_2e3b6599f3_b.jpg

     

    So now we are thru the harder stuff and the top is within reach. we bivy at pitch 13 (3rd and final wall bivy) aptly named 'peanut ledge'. it is as flat as a park bench and shaped like a peanut. the pitch coming off peanut is the only reason to bring big gear. at one time there was a line of bolts next to the 4.5" crack the goes for about 80 feet. those bolts have been chopped, as they were not part of the original route. so there's a bit of a runout.

     

    running it out on p14

    2972709154_6467e452ba_b.jpg

     

    while i lounge at the belay

    2971868465_a4bb9434bf.jpg

     

    w00t!

    2971868487_4a8a60a51a.jpg

     

    sharp edge on P14

    2971868497_e3299ec233.jpg

     

    leading p15

    2972709156_a665e3b675.jpg

     

    looking back at the fragile hook travers (p15)

    2966834275_8459b5b72f_b.jpg

     

    the (alleged) best top-out on el cap

    2966838043_d4bd82c47f.jpg

     

    the payoff!!!!!!!!!

    2966838067_277a6130c3_b.jpg

     

    ...what a bitchin climb!!! big thanks to climbing partner ryan for no clusters and good spirits thru the climb. big thanks to tom evans for the great pictures and a bitchin day of drinkin on the bridge. big thanks to the weather, although it was actually snowing when we drove into the valley - it was sunny and 70 every day w/ no wind.

     

    does it quench the thirst... nope...already have the next topo hanging in the cube. can't wait for spring!

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Gear Notes:

     

    2 sets micro nuts

    2 sets nuts

    3 offset aliens (not 3 sets, but 3 total)

    mastercams - blue to red

    aliens - black to gray

    zeros - gray to red (teh suck!...barely used)

    double camalots to 5 and 1 #6

    several beaks (teh rule!)

    several angles (baby to sawed 1")

    few LA's

    several heads (placed 1)

    double hooks (small to big)

    several cinch rivet hangers

    starbucks double shots

    1/2 5L box of wine (cab-sav)

    'yellow belly' the bigwall rubber chichen

     

     

    Approach Notes:

    crowded with japanese press shooting the hans and yuji speed ascent of the nose.

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