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Posts posted by underworld

  1. adjustable daisies:



    old fashion kind:



    either one will work for aid climbing...and discusions can go on and on about which is better. i prefer the adjustable ones but was very resistant to the change. you can probably do a search here or on supertopo for said long discusions.

  2. Trip: Utah - Fisher Towers: Kingfisher - Colorado Route


    Date: 4/4/2008


    Trip Report:

    So lazy saturday and the weather's changing - here's some desert stoke from earlier this year. Just a quick photo-TR.


    I was living in Salt Lake City earlier this year and I wanted to see the desert towers. I also wanted to see what it took to solo a 'wall'. This was my first time to solo anything beyond just short fixing pitches. The climbing was a lot of rivets and drilled angles but mixed in there was some 5.8 free climbing and some C2 sandstone aid. I think it was about 5 or 6 pitches (grade IV) and leads to a beautiful flat summit overlooking the desert. I managed to get back to the car and not need a headlamp w00t!


    Early morning start, but not too early. Kingfisher is on the left



    The start: bolt ladder to 5.8 chimney



    Looking up at the 1st chimney...will it be as muddy and bad as 'they' say...???




    Nah... not so bad. and there's actually some, errr, gear.



    whew... out of the chimney and cleaning p2



    Combining pitches is fastarrrr...



    "...i can see my car from here....



    the last anchor before the last chimney pitch(a keen eye will be able to see how i almost fq'ed myself here...)



    i'm stuck... really i was for a while, so i took a picture



    free and on top



    the titan looks bitchin!!



    the trail



    back at the car



    Gear Notes:

    you can pretty much do this w/ a single set of camalots, offset aliens, and rivet hangers.


    Approach Notes:


  3. thanks all...



    far off shots - tom evans aka elcap pics sits on the bridge next to the meadows all day every day during the climbing season. every evening he posts pictures on supertaco and gives and 'el cap report'. the guy know what is going on w/ every team on the wall and takes bitching pictures w/ a bitchin lense. it's a great read and the gives a reason to make it thru the day as a cubical puke.


    clean- for us, we probably hammered more than others... the black tower took me a few beaks. two equlized off the tip of the tower - if you fall there you get hurt. probably 2 or 3 more beaks on the rest of the route. 1 small head near the top of p9 and then a couple angles here and there on the rest of the route. we are style-less cowards, but whatever. from what i hear, there is nearly the same amount of fixed gear as pre-cleanup.


    fall in the valley:

    very few leaves were turning when we were there, just up high in some gulleys. i think i prefer spring. the waterfalls are big and the belays don't smell so bad...but it's hard to complain about being in the valley.

  4. Trip: Yosemite - El Capitan - Zodiac


    Date: 10/15/2008


    Trip Report:

    ...so there i was, pooping on the top of el-cap and it was snowing. it was 95 degrees shuttling loads 4 days ago.... "i gotta come back and do this again" i thought to myself. This was in May of this year after climbing tangerine trip. In the next few months el cap is still on my mind. Do i push my luck and try this thing again? Was it a fluke? What makes Zodiac so classic? Should i spend my vacation back in the same place? So many questions just go away when you start up the wall.


    We have this running joke that everything on the valley floor in yosemite takes 4 hours. It's not really that much of a joke, and certainly motivates you to get moving and get on the wall and out of the mess of the tourons and traffic. The valley is very much like bellevue square. just substitute the 'cougars' with bears.


    Anyway, all this just leads up to finally being packed and shuttling loads to the base of Zodiac. We were going full wall style with redundant ghettoblasters, a box of wine, an arsenal or iron and more chef-boy-r-d than i care to admit. It takes a day for the two of us, myself: bob and my partner: ryan, to organize and shuttle the 2 loads to the base.


    The next day we go back with our food and climb/haul two pitches. A trip report we read earlier said "if you can climb P1 of zodiac, you can climb zodiac". Not sure i totally buy that, but it did provide the closes thing to a fall in our 5 days of climbing. To keep the pitch clean was 3 inverted camhooks in a row to reach the anchor. well, as i was placing the 3rd camhook - the one i was standing on popped but i was caught by the one i had just placed. so, does it count if you fall up to a camhook?? whatever.


    racking up at the base



    Cleaning pitch 1



    Hauling P1photo credit for all distance pics: tom evans



    Leading P2




    so we had the 1st two pitches fixed and hauled...off to the buffet!!


    The next morning was an early one as we had a long day ahead. the plan was to jug the 2 pitches and lead another 4. luckily these were the easiest pitches of the route with many bolts and some easy free climbing.



    hooking on p5



    to a reachy rivet



    to the first bivy



    cleanliness is next to godliness



    we were now getting to the meat and potatoes of the route and some very classic terrain. from the black tower, through the gray circle, the nipple pitch and the mark of zorro. ok, so now we are understanding why this is considered such a classic line.


    the black tower has some thin nailing



    cleaning above the black tower



    same pic as above...from another perspective



    going into the gray circle



    pitch 9...whatta beauty!



    mid pitch 10



    lowering out while cleaing the nipple (p10)



    So now we are thru the harder stuff and the top is within reach. we bivy at pitch 13 (3rd and final wall bivy) aptly named 'peanut ledge'. it is as flat as a park bench and shaped like a peanut. the pitch coming off peanut is the only reason to bring big gear. at one time there was a line of bolts next to the 4.5" crack the goes for about 80 feet. those bolts have been chopped, as they were not part of the original route. so there's a bit of a runout.


    running it out on p14



    while i lounge at the belay






    sharp edge on P14



    leading p15



    looking back at the fragile hook travers (p15)



    the (alleged) best top-out on el cap



    the payoff!!!!!!!!!



    ...what a bitchin climb!!! big thanks to climbing partner ryan for no clusters and good spirits thru the climb. big thanks to tom evans for the great pictures and a bitchin day of drinkin on the bridge. big thanks to the weather, although it was actually snowing when we drove into the valley - it was sunny and 70 every day w/ no wind.


    does it quench the thirst... nope...already have the next topo hanging in the cube. can't wait for spring!










    Gear Notes:


    2 sets micro nuts

    2 sets nuts

    3 offset aliens (not 3 sets, but 3 total)

    mastercams - blue to red

    aliens - black to gray

    zeros - gray to red (teh suck!...barely used)

    double camalots to 5 and 1 #6

    several beaks (teh rule!)

    several angles (baby to sawed 1")

    few LA's

    several heads (placed 1)

    double hooks (small to big)

    several cinch rivet hangers

    starbucks double shots

    1/2 5L box of wine (cab-sav)

    'yellow belly' the bigwall rubber chichen



    Approach Notes:

    crowded with japanese press shooting the hans and yuji speed ascent of the nose.