crazybrit

I purchased these all new and they are unread. I've not climbed for a long time due to an injury and they've just sat on the shelf gathering dust. If you want to see pictures PM me and I can email. I based prices on Amazon.com. Extreme Alpinism, Mark Twight. $35. Out of print Alpine Climbing, Techniques to Take you Higher. Houston and Cosley. $10 Accidents in North American Mountaineering; 2000 to 2012 (13 editions, will not split them): $50 Glacier Mountaineering. An illustrated Guide to Glacier Travel. Tyson and Clelland. 2000 edition. $5 Prefer pickup in NE Portland (33rd and NE Broadway area) but inexpensive shipping via USPS Media Mail is an option. Thanks!

Accidents In North American Mountaineering. 2000 through 2012 13 issues total New. So obviously no markings/writing. Very slight shelf wear on the 2012 as it was sitting on top of the pile. $75 Will ship USPS Media Mail at your expense. Prefer local pickup. NE Portland (NE 33rd and I84) Prefer Venmo for online payment.

Ignoring for a moment the battery recall (can't meet spec) ... the specified battery life is a lot lower on the II than the I. http://ridetoeat.com/spot/specs.htm for comparison Probably still ok for climbing but for other activities the reduced life is a pita. I'm waiting for more reports on how the increased gps sensitivity actually works (more often than not failure to transmit location is because it can't get a gps fix rather than couldn't xmit to the globalstar).

This is a good point. Other than an inadequte set-up or failure of pro that initially held, I do not have a good response. More importantly, why would he call out on his cell saying his two buddies had gone for help, if instead they'd all be involved in some self-arrest accident which only he had survived. This discussion is only useful if people don't throw out all of the "probable reality" previously established.

This makes no sense to me. I'm still going with the conventional wisdom that all 3 dug the first cave (it was a viable cave AFAIK and thats hard to make with a dislocated shoulder). Some time later the missing two climbers left to get help. Interesting that the phone call he got out included no mention of being injured. Lots of things to speculate on here but non too useful. Got to assume he was injured before the cave was dug/entered.

My understanding of this is: 1) The note they left in the rental car (not the one later found at HR Ranger Station) said they were planning on descending Southside. Cooper Spur only in case of emergency. 2) The person who originally reported them missing was waiting for them at Timberline and called it in when they didn't show. All of this points to South Side being the planned descent route. I've not seen the photos, have they been published (/me doubts it). I was working on the assumption that they summited late (due to disclocated shoulder), hit bad weather at the summit and were unable to find the descent route through the Pearly Gates. I can't imagine hanging around the summit (in any weather) if someone was injured. Doubly baffling if the pics end up showing good weather at the summit. I carry a GPS with me with waypoints for upper/lower end of the gates, but it's only of use if it's working. Otherwise in a whiteout it's experience + good compass skills (if you've got a good sense of where you are on the summit) I wonder if this being their first ascent of Hood (think it was) played a factor here. t

Like my nose, the left foot has been growing slowly. I could have sworn it was only a 1/2 size bigger than the right but recently multiple measurements have confirmed it's a full size. Had the issue since early teens my first recollection of buying shoes. I've had mixed luck with insoles and second socks. Never seems to help with slippage on the right. The Nepal Extremes I got were with hindsight a little tight on the left foot (in order to not slip on the right -- I thought they'd give a little ROTFL). The 1/2 size up slipped badly on the right and nothing we did in the store would stop it (extra insoles etc etc). For me the issue is moot as I have to wear custom orthodics (I pronate badly) so anything I own which don't fit the new orthodics is going to be chucked/eBay'd. Oh well, gear shopping is fun. Yeah, I was thinking of trying some plastics with heat moulder liners. Only downer is that the store (Mt Shop) can't guarantee that they will solve the slipping and once I've moulded them, Pottery barn rule applies. As for the combo approach/snow. Yeah, several people have suggested the Trango's. I intend to be a lot more careful buying from now on. Thanks for all the advice. Tony

Holy sticker shock Batman. Wow.

Yeah I have the exact same problem with the Nepal Extremes. On Hood, as soon as I get above the Palmer, I have to pretty much constantly keep wiggling my toes to keep my feet warm. It could easily be a circulation/sizing issue. Also, they just murder my feet on any kind of non snow approach. I'm either going to sell them or keep them for Ice Climbing. I'm in the market for two pairs of boots. 1) pure winter snow boot - my problem with plastics is that my left foot is a full size bigger so the right always slips. 2) Decent 3/4 "shank" pair of boots for spring/summer climbing. Good for snow but also ok for a fair bit of trail approach (say 10 miles). I could have swore I saw a review in Backpacker a while ago of a pair of synthetic leather mountaineering boots with a heat moldable liner. It "claimed" all the advantages of a plastic but with the flexibility/sizing of a leather boot but I've never been able to find them. I was probably hallucinating :-)

Yeah it has nice features for sure. I'm not sold on the Pertex Quantum fabric though, especially for down. I think their Endurance jacket 21.5oz is probably closet to the Volant. Their heavier duty Summit Jacket is interesting. 34oz but only 8.8oz of down. The FF Frontpoint (30oz with 13oz of fill) seems to compare much more favorably here. Odd. Bummer you can't try out the Rab stuff locally.

What do you see as it's advantages over a Feathered Friends? The comment on the ProLite website We've used similar down jackets and parkas from Western Mountaineering, Feathered Friends, and Marmot, and one thing is perfectly clear after you spend some time with the Rab Neutrino: it blows away the competition." is interesting but I wonder if it's fact or more marketing hyperbole? 220gr is a full ounce less insulation than the FF Volant. Plus I think I'd rathet have tuck stitching than through stitching. Also it's $80 more than the Volant w/ Hood. Clearly they are British which is a point in their favour ;-) One the subject of down and it's waterproofness. I was talking to someone from the Mt Shop recently. He had a FF EPIC sleeping bag and as an experiment on the last night of a multi-day skiing trip in the Wallowas when it was raining hard he put the end 5" of his bag outside of the megamid for 4 hours. Zero moisture got inside.

Whats the name of the closeout place? Think it's under the Morrison Bridge or in that general area.

Thanks everyone for all the info. Found this on CC whilst poking around. Seemed to give some interesting quantifications: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showthreaded.php/Cat/0/Number/110666/page//vc/1 I'll have to do some poking around to find out the fill weight of the various synthetics mentioned on this thread. I'm guessing the FF Volant would fit the defition "good baffled down jacket" and thus be warmer than the 8oz Primaloft. I agree, the Go-Lite price is good. You can always stuff harder, but all depends on our relative pack size etc. Wouldn't mind checking one out (if for no other reason than other CC articles suggest checking it 1st hand for sizing). Anyone know of a store in town (PDX) which has one. I doubt it but doesn't hurt to ask :-) Time to start hitting the stores .... Thanks again

> Go Lite 6 month night parka! > super warm and super cheap How small does it pack down? I'd heard the Go-Lite was pretty bulky. IIRC Polarguard compresses less than Primaloft which of course is less compressible than down. Regarding previous persons comment about "consider synthetic". Of course, assuming I can get similar warmth in a package which compresses down at least close to what down would. \ For my usage (80%1 day), warmth is #1, weight/compressibility is #2, resisting lots of water is #3 priority.

Yeah I was concerned about internal condensation/EPIC. The woman at FF didn't really seem to understand what I was saying. Of course I think I'm looking at 70% single day use, 20% 2-3 days and very little > 3 day winter trips. I guess there is always the option of going with an eVent laminate for the Volant. IIRC eVent is heavier, less waterresistant but more breathable than EPIC. The Patagonia "Down Parka" looks good too but I'm guessing the shell will be more like EPIC. I guess it would be possible to take the specs for MEC, Mt Hardware, FF etc and compare the fill weight/fill-type. Trying to compare shell fabrics as well. I'll have probablty purchased cars in less time :-)