Pochi

http://www.pbase.com/jbinder/mt_stuart_ice_cliff Here are some pics

Trip: Mount Stuart - Icecliff GI Date: 4/7/2007 Trip Report: My friend Joe and I climbed Mount Stuart Ice cliff GI Saturday along with Kelly and Rusty who we met at the base of climb. Our plan was to climb it in one day because Joe had some plans on Sunday. So we left Seattle 11pm Friday. drove up to bridge Creek Camping Ground at 1:30am Saturday. We took a power snap for an hour, and started to hike up at 3:00am. The gate was still closed. So we hiked extra 3.5miles to the trailhead. The road was snow free about 1.5miles, and the next 1.5miles was snow and dart, and the last 1mile is covered with snow. There is a huge washout 1 mile post, so I assume the road won't be opening soon. We took our snowshoes, they were nice to have when the 90% of trail was covered with snow still. I saw people's tracks, but there were a lot of huge deep postponed holes everywhere. We saw a yellow tent by the fist swamp which I found out it belonged to the people we met at the base of climb. We ended up climbing with them. The approach took longer than what I expected. We got to the base of the climb at 10:30am. We looked up the icecliff GI decided take the left side of the cliff rather than the right side. Kelly and Rusty was already at the base started first. We soon enough past them since we simulclimbed. The snow was ok, wish a little harder because the snow was balling underneath of our crampons even through we had anti balling plates. Joe was kicking steps on the rhythm the first. When we got to the gully or runnel which is about 20-25ft. The one side is glacier hard ice, the other side is rock slab, and the middle is hard snow. My turn to lead. It looked easier from the bottom, but it was really awkward to climb and place some screws on the right side ice. I had to do a few sporty moves. I actually placed 4 screws, and was happy about it. We left screws for Kelly and Rusty. From there simulclimb again to the base of the steepen couloir. The last 1,000ft Joe was kicking steps strong placing pickets and a couple rock pros. And the final object CORNICE. It was about 10ft vertical high with shitty snow pile. Joe lead this fantastic part. Placed pickets, so he could hook his ice toolsto bring himself up, but hard to place feet because the steps collapsed every time we placed our feet. Hats off to Joe leading that. I attached Kelly and Rusty's rope, so they didn't have to suffer. When we toped out the ridge, it was already 7pm, so we decided it was wise idea to not to go the true summit. We down climbed Sharpa GI placing pickets. It was about 40 degrees the first 1500ft. That was just a tidius work, faceing down, place pickets in dark. not to mention, no water left with exhaust and hunger. We made 5,400ft the flat campsite about 11pm. Kelly and Rusty took off to their tent. And Joe and I decided to rest there for awhile with just one bivy sack and pad. I had no sleep because it was windy and cold. I don't know how Joe could sleep in such condition. Joe got up about 5;00am and we started hiking out. Death march what I wanted call of this hike out. Overall, I had great time climbing that route. But I don't think I want to plan this trip in a one day push. Gear Notes: Snowshoes for apprach ditched 5,400ft 4 ice screws ust tham all 4 pickets used them all Approach Notes: 3.5miles on the road to the trailhead 90% covered with snow

4 pickets used them all 4 screws 19cmmx2 21cm x2 Used 2 screws.

http://www.pbase.com/jbinder/mthood_sandy_glacier_headwall Here are some photos from our trip.

Trip: Mount Hood - Sandy Headwall Date: 3/17/2007 Trip Report: My friend Joe and I climbed Mount Hood Sandy Headwall Saturday. We left Seattle Friday afternoon. The weather was just gorgeous and very warm. We slept in a car until 1:30am, started 2am. Snow was farm from the parking lot. So we ditched our snowshoes in a car, but carried over night gear for just emergency because we did not want to be on National News. And also we didn't have a dog with us either. We saw a few tent at Illumination Saddle 9,300ft. They must be the people who register to climb Luethold Couloir? Drop down from the saddle about 1,000ft and crossed over Yocum ridge. Got on Sandy GI with the sun rise. It was clear, but it was windy about 20-30 mph. Started climb on the headwall. The slope was consistently 45-50 degrees. Very solid Alpine Ice. But the slope is not steep enough to front point, but the tool placements were fabulous. My calf muscles were burning so bad. We running belayed whole thing except the one section. 15ft narrow gully with crappy water ice on. After that the slope got steeper. I think it was more than 45 degrees. Got on the summit ridge, had nice sun, but the wind was blowing so hard. We took a couple of summit pics and headed down the south side. The summit gully was very icy. We down climbed with placing a few pickets. The weather came in at this moment. It was still super windy and white out once in awhile. When I got Hogsback, there was a pretty big size crevasse opened up, I put a picket and step on the snow bridge where I saw some previous steps on, all the sudden the bidge collapsed and I fell 20ft into the hole. I don't know which one came first my partners arrest or I got wedged between the walls. It was a strange feeling to be inside of a crevasse that deep. I did not get injured and I was able to get up the wall with my ice tool. After that we just sloged to our car in windy and a little white out condition. That was a great winter Alpine ice climb with a little shaky incident. This will be one of my favorite climb.

I am flexible, but the last week of Feb is the best for me.

I am looking for a partner(S) to ice climb in Ouray CO. PM me if you are interested.

The bread wasn't mine. But one of my guy had some bead, he must left it there. I didn't even notice. I am sorry that is not a good manner. Anyway I hope you didn't eat it.

How were the steps we made them for you Sunday? The camp site was very nice place to be. You can see Rainier, St. Helens, and Adams. I eonjoyed tha climb.

I did not find any ice tool or picket on the route. No one was on North ridge Sunday except us. I lost one OR clove on the ridge also.

Climb: Mount Baker -North Ridge Date of Climb: 6/25/2006 Trip Report: I took 3 mounty climbers to Baker North Ridge. I wanted to climb it in a day, but the others insteded to climb in 2 days, so we did it 6/-24-25. The approach was straight forward. Camped about 6,300ft on a rock. It has a few established tent sites. It was very warm night Freezing level was above 14,00ft, but a bit windy at the campsite. Got up 12am, was ready to start at 1am with one rope tem with 4 climbers. Started traversing about 6,500 ft, and ended in crevasse island. Zigzaged up and down, and finally got out. Changed a rope leader, and headed higher elevation about 7,300 ft. Here we go, we were in Creases Island again. It is really hard to navigate Coleman GI in complete dark. It was new moon. Our first plan was to climb Lower approach, however we ended up the base of upper approach( according to Nelson's book there are 2 approaches). The slope was about 40 degrees. The snow was very soft ,and was hard to make steps. We placed a few pickets, and climbed running belays. Topped out on North ridge about 8,800ft. Form there, climbed leftward on 30-45 degrees slope. Then hit the ice face that I was able to put screw for an anchor. There was ice underneath of 4-5 inches of slush snow. The fist pitch is good solid ice climbing 70 degrees. Above that another pitch of OK ice. After ice pitch the slope opens up onto broader slopes about 40-50 degrees. Then climbed up leftward underneath the big ice cap, then to the summit. Freaking Long 11 hours from camp to summit! Coming back down Coleman Deming GI was nightmare. The snow was heavy and wet and deep. Got to the car at 5pm. I want to do this climb when it is cold. Gear Notes: Ice tool 6 Ic screws per rope team 4 pickets per rope team Approach Notes: Super good condition. but millions people on the trail when it's nice day.

I went up on Sunday 18th. The route was still in, and nice climb. I started around 7am at the base of the climb. The snow on couloir was already soft. But like HaakkTW siad the north side was very hard snow and easy to climb up. I topped out around 10am, and did not want to go home so early. So I decided to scramble up to Dragontail and came back down from Aasgard Pass. It was nice day there, and I even saw Rainier was popping up above the clouds. It is not a technical climb if you are comfortable climbing up on steep 30-45 degrees hard snow. Pictures are coming soon.

Is anyone intersted climbing Shuksan north face Sunday-Monday 28-29? PM me.

I hear you. I was there 4/29-5/9 to climb Mount Hunter west ridge. We got stuck at camp 2 where the origibal route meets NW basin route for 4 nights. We had 6-10 inches of new powder snow and 30-40 mpr winds. We just didn't have enough food to attempt the summit. My heart was broken when we had to turn around. We were the first team on the NW basin route on Hunter. So we kicked steps all the way to camp 2. It was a great experiense and I would like to try again next year if I can find partners.

Oleg I remember you. I am so glad you made it. I am looking forward to hearing your trip report.