Snafflehunter
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Posts posted by Snafflehunter
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Looking for a competent partner to do Dorado Needle's NW Ridge in a day on Sunday 7/24 via the NW Ridge. It's ~15 miles RT from the Eldorado TH. I will be happy to drive, but it would be cool if you could spring for half of the gas (about $15).
I plan to leave Seattle either Saturday around 9pm and do a TH bivy or Sunday morning and would prefer to be hiking at 5AM.
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Thanks Josh.
By the way, what does YMMV stand for?
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To those who have climbed the NW Ridge on Dorado Needle .. is it necessary to bring two ropes for the rappel off the summit block? Thanks in advance.
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Cheerist did you guys run up that thing? 12 hours RT with over 8000' of gain is moving. Certainly I won't scoff at the assertion of W. Mac being done in a day anymore. Nice work EJ and Zoroastr.
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There's a yellow bus shuttle from Lucerne to Holden in the Summer. Since there is no phone service in Holden, you have to make reservations ahead of time via Postal mail. It's possible to get on the bus without a reservation, but if there's no room left, you're SOL and that's a long way to go in to find out the shuttle is full.
Postal address for Holden:
Holden Village
HC00 Stop 2
Chelan, WA 98816
http://www.holdenvillage.org/notregistered.html
They serve some pretty good food up there for a reasonable fee (like $6 for all you can eat). It's pretty holy up there though, so you have to hold hands and pray prior to your meal. We went up there last year during Latin American week and had some pretty good mexican food. The ice cream at the village creamery is also highly recommended, but not served on Sunday (go figure).
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Klenke, that photo is one of the nicest photos I've ever seen. That was an awesome trip!
I concur with Klenke's estimates, except I seem to remember it being 1.5 hours to Silver Lake from Ouzel Lake.
I'd also like to add that I highly suggest the Custer ridge traverse from Rahm - Custer. Klenke and I were able to climb Rahm, Custer, and Spickard in a day from a camp at Ouzel Lake with light packs.
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Everytime I have been into Jim's store it has been a pleasurable experience (except for once when the guy playing solitaire at the front desk didn't even acknowledge my existence even though I was the only customer in the store). The very first time I went to PMS Jim spent an hour and a half with me going over the pros and cons of the gear I was intending to buy.
I'm the type of consumer who does a lot of research ahead of time and I feel I'm pretty hard to please, and very stubborn when it comes to listening to other people's advice on gear. Every time I visit PMS, the folks there go through great lengths to make sure I'm buying what I need. I've even been talked out of a few purchases only to be sold on something entirely different than what I thought I wanted. This advice has always been welcome and I now swear by the gear I've been introduced to at PMS (Jim introduced me to Wild Things Primaloft, the Integral Designs Silshelter and Western Mountaineering VersaLite sleeping bag, Colin introduced me to Dyneema slings). How many times have you had this kind of experience at REI or even Feathered Friends?
Of course with the good advice comes advice that doesn't work for everyone. Climbing is a diverse sport with diverse routes and diverse participants. Not everyone is going to agree on the same choices of gear, but the bottom line is Jim carries a wide variety of gear that can suit just about any climber -- no matter what their niche (alpine, sport, hiking).
Three out of four in my immediate family climbs and we all shop at PMS. I would recommend Pro Mountain Sports over any other gear retailer. Even with the one negative experience I had.
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I'm not familiar with the Horse Fly route, but going back up through the meadows SW of the summit you'd think it was the mosquito route! They were everywhere, and our only defense tactic was to keep moving. I would have loved to stay and take some more photos in the meadow over towards Tupshin and Devore, but the skeeters drove us bonkers.
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Having done the route myself, I'd say that it seems easier to just descend the S side route and traverse around the mountain to Storm King Col and do the 1 rap from there. It doesn't take that long to walk around the mountain and get back to camp in the basin just below the glacier. This way you don't have to worry about routefinding your way down the climbing route, and don't have to worry about bringing loose shit down on you as you make successive raps down to the lower part of the ridge (where the rock is much looser). Plus, this way you can see all sides of the mountain which, in my opinion, is situated in one of the finest areas of the Cascades. I'm sure someone will disagree.
By the way, nice work Blake. Sweet climb!
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Climb: Reynolds Peak-NW Ridge of South and North Summits
Date of Climb: 7/11/2005
Trip Report:
Climbed the NW Ridge of Reynolds Peak's South and North summits on 7/11/05.
We began hiking up Reynolds Ck trail at 5:30 on Monday morning and got to the pass (6875') at ~8:00. We then hiked up the ridge immediately E of the pass to gain the NW Ridge. We took advantage of running belays on the entire route and enjoyed very pleasant climbing on relatively sound rock throughout the duration of the climb. We topped out at 1PM and enjoyed spectacular views over to Bonanza and the Entiat range, the peaks of the Ptarmigan Traverse, South to Stuart, and as far North as Redoubt. We descended the SW ridge, eventually contouring around the West basin where the wildflowers were in full bloom (as were the 'skeeters). Back to the car at 5:35 for a 12 hour day.
On a side note, someone must be living off the land in the area of Reynolds Ck. We saw about a cord of wood chopped up and piled all nice and neat by a fire pit at ~5500'. Also, several trees had fresh axe marks with bark peeled away and there were strange Xs etched into the dirt about every half mile or so (not to mention rock cairns). We also heard gunshots. Must be hunting season in the Methow.
A huge thanks to Eric Hoffman (www.ericsbasecamp.net) who provided much of the route info for this climb. Beckey's 13 word route description in CAG doesn't say much, and without Eric's info we would have had to scratch our heads a great deal more than we did.
Summit shot:
Wildflowers in the basin SW of the summit:
The complete NW Ridge of the N summit:
sverdina on the NW ridge:
Gendarme on the NW ridge of the N summit:
sverdina high on the NW Ridge:
Gear Notes:
Rope, cams, stoppers. Used blue C6 camalot and blue BD stopper about 4 times.
Approach Notes:
6.6 miles to the pass. On the descent, walk down the SW ridge to ~6400' (class 2) then ascend back to the pass.
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I've been up to the Enchantments 4 times (including this weekend for 3 days) and have never got a permit. I also don't buy a trail park pass. Buck the system.
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It boils down to being an internet thing where there is no such thing as accountability for one's statements and actions.
Is that why you use your real name,
How does using your real name make you accountable? Even if I use my real name, I'm still not accountable for my actions on a message board.
I'll break it down for you, since you seem to be having a tough time with it. It's like getting cut off in traffic. You'd never think of cutting in line in front of me at Subway because you'd be held accountable -- either by being forced to the back of the line, or worse. But in your car, you feel safe because you're in your own little fortress. More often than not, common courtesy is generally exercised during face-to-face interaction -- this fact is undeniable. If you aren't courteous in person, folks tend to call bullshit or "merc out" -- THAT'S accountability. On the internet if you say something derrogatory or negative to someone else, you can just shut off your monitor and hide under your sheets. Another example... just witness how courteous folks are at a pub club compared to how they act on the internet. I know, I've been to several pub clubs. There are several folks I could use as an example, but I'll spare the details because I'm guessing you get it by now. Accountability. As you can see, much different than using your own name on the internet.
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You fit right in - we're winning.
It's spelled "whining", and no I don't fit right in.
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and a big
to you cause you obviously feel inadequate 
Typical cascadeclimbers.com mentality. Blame others for your own shortcomings.
I've been feeling so inadequate lately because I haven't quite reached the 25,000 post mark on cc.com. Perhaps you could offer me some of your expertise in that arena? How could I possibly achieve?
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Furthermore, I'd ignore 98% of the fuck-tards on this website. This site used to be a great source of info, but has evolved over the years into a sad collection of "climbers" who would rather talk out of their necks than climb a mountain or offer any kind of relevant information.
Perhaps you could offer relevant information. In 46 posts you've sprayed politics, slammed people for using fixed lines, and mocked others.
Slammed people for using fixed lines? CJ = Coke Junkie?
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The last 3 posters before knelson are obviously in the 98 percentile. Look how many posts Dru has. Over 10,000? Fuck, Dru .. you're my hero.
A big "Eat a dick" goes out to the last 3 pathetic greeny weenies. Especially Dru.
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I say .. congratulations. Sounds like a hell of a trip.
Furthermore, I'd ignore 98% of the fuck-tards on this website. This site used to be a great source of info, but has evolved over the years into a sad collection of "climbers" who would rather talk out of their necks than climb a mountain or offer any kind of relevant information. And like the Cobra_Commander said, I wouldn't say this website represents the NW climbing scene at all. I've NEVER met anyone in person in the cascades who condescends, ridicules, or even talks down to me or anyone who I've been climbing with. But read this site and you'll see it 25 times per thread. It boils down to being an internet thing where there is no such thing as accountability for one's statements and actions.
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Primary function of swimming pool: recreation (see also: water, naturally collecting in low-lying areas everywhere)
Primary function of firearms: killing
Funny, my primary use of a firearm and its primary function is: recreation.
Mine too.
Some people's primary use of their back yard is to store the dead corpses of those they murdered. Should we outlaw back yards? Discuss.
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You are soooo smart! I meant to say you guys are bordering on BECOMING prodigies. My sincere aplogies to the Proctologist, Mr DFA, and others who have been offended.
Prodigy: A person with exceptional talents or powers.
The "talent" in question is your ability (or lack thereof, depending on how you read into it), like many of the other liberal tree hugger earth muffins on this site, to take valid thoughts and ideas and "rebuke" them to suit your hopeless, pharasaic idealism. In layman's terms (and for those illiterates out there), I was being sarchastic and you have taken yourself way too seriously. Furthermore, you, mr puerile peabrain proctologist, are nothing more than a liberal sheeple with no ability to conjure any sort of idea for yourself without reading the latest copy of the Stranger. Enjoy the practice of exploring other peoples assholes and remember .... rectums aren't the only things full of shit.
Thankyou for letting communist speak.
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Did you hear about the guy who backed over his kid with his car while backing out of his driveway?
We should ban cars. They are so fucking dangerous.
And while I'm on the subject...
How about the kid who drowned in his parents swimming pool? His parents are SOOOO IRRESPONSIBLE for even having a swimming pool in their yard. How could you let something like that happen?
People are dying all the time from failure to follow safe climbing procedure. We should ban cams and stoppers. Die commie bastards!
You guys are bordering on prodigy.
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Who would have guessed?
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I'm looking to purchase a full set of BD Stoppers, a second set of smaller size stoppers, a full set of cams, 4 22cm screws, and 2 stubby screws. I'm looking for new or like new gear. PM me.
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E-Mail sent!
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Thank... I just ordered from them. How long did it take to get yours?
Dorado Needle NW Ridge on Sunday
in Climbing Partners
Posted
Found a partner. Thanks.