Shawn

Hi guys, I posted one last time on RC Just to let you know I actually have no hard feelings,Some of you are even funny. off to climb Cheerz

Jordop that kind of stuff might scare you but doesnt faze me abit, It is obviose you know nothing about me. If Colin wants to come by, then by all means I suspect wed have a beer together. I real gentleman is a sighn of strength but I gess some of you wouldnt know that. Anyway This is pretty entertaining I posted on RC Cheers

You know theres been so many rumors floating around about it being skied for so many years and know one could ever tell me by who or when. I recently watched a documentory on its attempts and it had still not been done at that time (documentary was late 90's. so like many I to "thought it to be impossible" however it apears I was wrong. Once armed with thier names a simple search resulted in the information I had searched for a few years back. I am not doubting these guys, I had no Idea they even attempted it since the rumors have flown about it being skied since the eighties. Now some of you guys are older sure and I never said I was swinging axes etc while all of you were in diapers sheesh get a grip people! Is this how you guys are over here? Do you try and jump on everything and take everything as an attack? Im strong enough to admit a mistake and humble enough to realize an error and change course or action. Are you? It keeps extreme alpine climbers alive, the weak can not be humbled and die for thier pride, Ive seen it happen too many times. I am not a guru of whos doing what and everything going on in the climbing world. I climb for me not to impress any of you. Maybe if I spent less time in the mountains and more time on the internet or reading I would have all the details of everything. of course I realize when you run in certain circles you here of stuff word of mouth so it should be expected that an avid climber knows some stuff going on. You know I post an apology to Colin and the next post (not by colin) is another atack? WTF? The context of my statement regarding peope not still wearing tweed suits to climb in, is not that any of you cant, only that were suppossed to be a different breed of gentlemen these days. Apearently some of you are and some of you arent. Colin has stood out in this thread to me as a gentleman and therefore I have respect for him. SOME of the others posting on this site apear to have some real issues. Maybe you just need to climb more and get some of that out of youre system. As for me I count actual climbing since 1986 as when I was basically leading and guiding friends on mountains I climbed for years before that but I dont count it as I was prety young still. Please note; the reason I had mentioned that was only to qualify that i am not some neewbie, that was all. Apearently context of a statement is irrelavent and it appears that picking out statements to attack someone is a common practice. Now I feel like there is a reason Ive never come to this site before, maybe Im not welcomed here, maybe we all just got off on the wrong foot. I have tried to make things right and have helped rescue pompus egos of mountains before. Would you guys? Ask yourself if your strong and man enough to be civil and respond accordingly. Colin was. What makes those attacking me any better then I was? mmmm I came on this board to set things straight whats your excuse? Have I pushed my limits? of course. Do any of you know my acomplishments? NO Did you guys actually read what I said in my other posts? Doesnt sound like it. Colin your gear list does not sound a whole lot different then mine except I took some luxery items for on the way in (like a couple begals.) and of course soloing your lighter in the rack and rope dept. Somone said 47lbs was heavy once I had my clothes on crampons tools in hand 2l of water power gels rope fed out harness on etc including pack weight Im only carrying <15lbs including stove and fuel bivey sack etc. I know i can shed a few pounds yet in my system but I dont think Im hauling too much weight, hell Mark twight says he feels anything under about 30lbs is about right when climbing. Anyway Im not going to try and justify myself to people that are only interested in trying to pick out negeative things and try to critisize others no matter what. As I said before my aproach to this topic was wrong. But some of you guys are stuck in your pride and that blurrs your judgement that tells me what type of a climber you are also, not what youve done or how hard you climb but how you are mentally and unless some of you have an attitude change you will be one of the friends of another climber that dies on a mountain it will catch up to you. There is enough calculated risks in this sport start being narrow minded (as you so called me but however have shown Im not, if you look back at my responses.) and stubborn only seing things the way you want to see it instead of actually taking in and assesing a situation for what it actually is and you will end up dead on a mountain to be sure. Again this is not all of you, but if you turned around and slammed me then you are EXCACTLY what yu accused me of. So tell me all you big shots. How is it beter for you to do it? In fact those that did it after my aplogy, I showed that I am not one to be stubborn in the sence of being unreasonable in fact I displayed that I can take into account new things and change my opinion. You on the other hand have shown that you are worse then what you have acused me of by your own definition. I however am assuming that yu guys are really infact just a little slower to come around and in fact maybe quite reasonable. So is my thinking you guys are alright correct or will you prove by your own standards to be exactly what you apaul?? Good day

Opps one more thing I keep hearing how the North face has been skied. It has never been skied and it was concluded unskiable after all the major attepts were made and the route has only gotten more steep and more exposed rock since. The route that was skied has never to my knowledge been repeated and I think it was the south east. ever since the public attempts and all the media hype to ski the north face people were saying it was done then when Robson itself was skied the rumors really flew. Its really quite interesting history on the mountain there was a lot of posturing and guys that thought they were willing to die for the goal until they got on the face and chickened out! BTW while all the teams were there several attempts were made to climb the face all unsucsessful. Except the fellow that finally skied the mountain I beleive he climbed the face then said impossible and skied down the south east. Anyway The North Face of Robson is a worthy goal but having been there with all the effort to get up to it Im going back for some thing better. And next time we wont go via the berg glacier, that was sic to navigate with some very technical sections of overhanging ice, to go from berg glacier to the glacier below the face. cheers PS. The more I think about it the more I realize I was in very bad form to Acuse Colin of not doing what he said he had. It by the way was very poor Alpine etquette.

Hi its your friendly neighborhood douchebag here. First off lets get a few things clear here. First and formost I never once implied nor thought that Collin did not climb the north face but rather I highly doubted he did it in a day. (from trail head to trail head as I read it.) Now what I should have done is logged on here earlier and talked to Colin before shooting off at the mouth (guess I was kinda having a bad day) By the way I dont need to spell good or have proper grammer to be a good climber (you guys dont still climb in tweed suits do you?) All right now her is somthing I really want to say; Colin this is directed to you, If Im wrong I 100% apoligize and is is quite possible That I am. My reasoning for being scpeticle is that it is a hugely sandbagged route and climb by many, including the book! Whenever I talk about Robson some one always knows some one that has done it and of course it was always not bad (so they say) of corse when pressed for details the vast majority are just blowin smoke. I am not saying Colin that you are I just would like some to realize my reasoning for being a bit sceptacle that all. Perhaps Colin you are a super man and hell with some of the stuff pulled off these days there is a bunch out there. Show me anyone that thinks oh yeah thats totally doable in a day whats this guy talkin about? and I will show you either some one that has never been to the summit or someone that blow a lot of hot air when recounting thier trips. Now I dont have my topos with me but I know for certain it is 22+KM just to berg a good the river is not easy to cross and the butress is the size of a small mountain on its own. (hell size wise Robson is about as big as K2 only sitting at a lower elevation) There is a reason it sees only about a 10% success rate and most try the normal route or the Kain. If you add in all the up and down traversing and elevation you are looking at a huge distance to cover in one day. not to mention its almost 2 miles up. Hell Reinhold Messner has apearently tried for the face several times and it always aluded him. what was it that got him some of the time? It was the aproach and distance so he started flying in and he still got beat but by weather. Do many Climb this mountain, well sort of only because so many attempts are made. on average it sees 100 attempts and 10% success. I could go on but the point is To do the north face in a day your superman in my books Those that disagree well either your amazing yourself or you dont know what your comparing. BTW I am no neewbie to Alpine and was probably swinging axes and climbing mountains when most of you were still in diapers. I climb waterfalls to big walls and Alpine. Im just saying I feel confident in my rational, that doesnt make me right nor does it make me wrong. I am not trying to offend anyone so I apologize for that as well if I have. Hell lets just start over Colin congradulations on an amazing feat!! With all the distance involved and the good amount of obsticles to overcome you must have been flying! How heavy was your pack? When I gave it a go I was down to about 47lbs with water,ice rack clothes everything except my one peice underwear, socks, and boots we moved fast but stayed at kinney for a couple hours since we had been on the go for 24hrs at that point (we had to work the day before and drove through the night to get there) ANyway would love to pick your brain about some details. cheers Shawn ps sorry for the bad spelling and grammer!