DavidHiers

Sorry for delay, I'm still alive...

I'm bailing for good, selling everything. All gear is in good to unused condition, not selling anything that took anything more than a slip. I've attached a priced inventory list. Off Belay, David 4374.pdf 4375.pdf

Hi, I'm looking for recent beta for a non-climbing weekend in Leavenworth focused on food, wine and outdoor hot-tubs. While I read www.leavenworth.org, I thought that I might hit up the brain trust for recommendations on some fairly posh digs. Thanks, David

Mad props!

Coefficient of friction is just one important specification of rubber. What about ribbed, flavored, glow-in-the-dark, etc? Spadout's results are limited in value, as they don't usually list their assumptions, which for this case include: 1. mu is constant for every normal force 2. mu is constant for every relative humidity 3. mu is constant for every degree of surface roughness 4. mu is constant for every type and amount of surface contaminate (chalk, dust, organics (moss, lichen, etc), etc) 5. mu is constant for all phases of a shoe's life (new in box, broken-in, thrashed) Most of spadout's work seems to be a proof-of-concept for what a testing program might actually look like. The results are valid, but limited by the (usually omitted) assumptions.

Perhaps people are not nearly as fascinated by mid-life discovery as Madison Avenue is fascinated by the disposable incomes of mid-life people. Us geezers do like to watch other geezers act like non-geezers so we can think that we're non-geezers. We've been known to buy a ton of crap to prove that we're non-geezers, too...

My brother keeps trying to sign me up for a HANO jump class...

How about a little more info about this book? I'm trying to find it at the KCLS or the SnoHo libraries. Thanks I got mine from PMI. Its a good read. www.pmirope.com

Daisy chain in a mesh bag, front load machine with pmi rope soap.

From "High Angle Rescue Techniques": "When possible, the more efficient pulley should be placed at the input side of the pulley system". From their diagram, the input is the little stick dude doing the hauling.

I'd say add any extra protection that seems reasonable. Risk homeostasis ("moral hazard" is the term for the concept in the financial industry) indicates that people will use, ignore, or augment anything you put up there so they can stay within their own personal risk envelope. I can't speak for anyone else, but I seem to clip, sling, and chock to just about the same overall degree of safety no matter where I climb.

3 shares the load with the victim's tie-in, so I'm pretty sure that it can't bear 100% of the load. Since the load is supported directly at two points and is free to move, each point must bear 50% of the load. Ignoring the non-pulley losses such as edge loading, the frictional losses come from the rope/pulley surface, as well as the pulley/axle surface. Both load and speed will enter into the solution, which I suspect has some non-linear areas. I'm not sure which dominates. There's going to be some losses internal to the rope as the fibers move over each other. Connally [p322] claims that if you have only one pulley in the classic Z system, it goes next to the pulling hand. This suggests that speed dominates load in common climbing situations.

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This can't be a new idea, but I'll toss it out there anyway... The Forest Service has had some success with artificial nest ledges for raptors, and peregrines are known for using artificial structures. http://elibrary.unm.edu/sora/jrr/v014n02/p00046-p00050.pdf I'm no fan of redlining, but maybe the birds would be more comfortable on a rock that isn't crawling with hoard of screaming tourists. Who knows, their numbers might even increase with some styling cribs nailed to Mt. Hamilton's loose munge.