gyselinck
-
Posts
372 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by gyselinck
-
-
Wow, it's amazing how much snow is gone. Thanks for the updated pics.
-
I found a blue one in there sometime last year, is that yours Ron? I carried it out and threw it away...Along with 40 feet of old webbing, two chewed up ropes (that some idiot stashed, but didn't leave in a bag) and a bunch of rusty shit.
-
Steven,
I have gone all three ways and think the Nelson description is by far the easiest and quickest (also the most pretty). However, I know people who swear by Hook Creek (slaphappy) and others who perfer Rat Creek.
Give the Nelson way a try next time.
-
I was talking to Erik the other day and didn't realize that they left the cam and and sling at the bottom of the route, climbed the route, and then hiked back to the bottom to find it gone. Thats incrdibly poor style on Dan Cappellini's part not to give it back, even after he knows whos it is. Sure its only a cam, sling, and some biners, but its just more about good ethics I guess. Kinda sucks.
-
I deserved this shit. After about 4 failures in a row, it's about time I got up something.
-
Climb: Mount Stuart-Northwest Face Couloir
Date of Climb: 5/13/2006
Trip Report:
As usual, shoulder seasons suck. Ryan and I spent the entire week trying to figure out what to climb, changing our minds about 14 times. Friday night we finally decided on the Northwest Face Couloir of Mount Stuart. I had already been unsuccessful on the Northeast Face this year and was eager to get up that mountain.
We bivied high on the moraine with the intent on carrying all our gear over. As usual the scenery was ugly.
About all I have to say is this climb is now my most favorite mixed/ice route I’ve ever done. The climbing was difficult; it seemed as if every pitch had a crux, ice conditions were thin. It took us 12 hours on route, approximately 15 pitches. It made for a really long day. I ain't used to this kind of abuse with all the sittin' around I've been doing. My whole body hurts.
High bivies:
Looking down from pitch one, estimated 5.9+, bottom ice pitch was non existant:
Making slow progress through difficult rock bands:
Ryan starting up a difficult dihedral:
Higher up:
Ice runnels nearing the summit:
Gear Notes:
-Twin 50m ropes
-brought 4 screws, didnt use
-large rock rack
-1 picket, more would've been better
-tools and crampons, of course
Approach Notes:
North side approach. Easy going (3 hours, not pushig ourselves)
-
I did see Erik get his ass pushed through a wall once, it left two big but cheak size holes in the wall.
-
Did you know that suckbm is the a-hole who threw up all over me, resulting in you sparing me the pants. I see a correlation here, you should be kind and get C-4 and Erik back together again.
-
If I raped the n. ridge of Stuart with skiies on would that be considered a ski descent too?
-
Got out there as well. Met catbirdseat for the first time. Didn't get to many climbs in for the amount of time we were there, but had fun. Warmed up on the classic bird poop offwidth, called Steel Grill.
Next we did Bob's Your Unlce.
Then Ryan did Stems & Seeds:
And we finished the day off with Red M&M:
-
Post deleted by gyselinck
-
Anyone want to go. Send me a pm with your phone number. I can meet anyone there. I'll be checking this often through the day.
-Craig
-
Weather cleared in Ellensburg, nice and sunny. But there still looks like some nasty dark clouds hovering over those hills.
-
It's been snowing for the last day or so up there, it snowed in Ellensburg today. 100% of snow today, 70% percent chance on Friday, 50% into Saturday morning. The chance of good weather is about as good as you finding your icescrew.
-
Sorry for all the jibber jabber. I'm avilable Monday as well, if your someone who is heading back to Seattle. I would just need to get droped off in North Bend. Just send me any pm's about those days if you want to do some stuff.
That old guy has the right to call me whatever he wants.
-
My teacher takes pride in being a hardass. Perhaps I should change my member name now, I know they read these things.
My favorite conversation being just yesterday during lecture:
Teacher - "I just wan't to let you guys all know that I told you the wrong way to name the molecule, I thought about it later and what I told you is wrong."
Student: "Well, then can you give us a quick example of the right method?"
Teacher: "NO! I don't have time, look it up in the book."
-----------------------------------------------------------
But, if anyone really wants to go climbing on Friday, Saturday, or Sunday and is driving through E-burg (I don't have a car) send me a pm and we'll hook up. Perhaps you can even stay at my place in Ellensburg if you want to do a couple days of cragging. The mountains are getting pounded right now.
-
Climbing is not a game man, its serious business, and so is my organic chemistry final tomorrow.
I'm free all Friday, Saturday, and Sunday; probably will be down there trying to get things back up to speed. Maybe I'll run into you. Just look for the most retarded looking person on Sunshine (that be me), with eaither a pretty female, or another retarded looking male, or both.
-
Saw you out looking for your screw. Why the heck do you care about that thing anymore. My screws rust if I leave em in a pack over night, that thing ought to be a bar of rust by now, after 2 months of being damp....
-
Still avilable, hexes are sold. The crampons fit any size boot. They even work well in tennis shoes and soft boots. I used em a lot on techniqal crap, so the front points are a lot smaller then they used to be. But it would be a good non techniqual crampon now, ie mount rainer, etc.
-
Some people just don't like kids man. It's a good rope, I paid $198 for it, used it less then a 12 times, when I rapped (not raped) over a sharp corner. The coreshot is in the dead middle of the rope. If you cut it out, the ends are fine. I just don't have any use for two more 30 meter ropes.
-
folded aluminum. Im saying it has a core shot, or it sure looks and feels it, I cant tell for sure however. But if you want a rope for your kids, or two good 30 meter ropes, it's as good as new.
-
Don't worry about shipping, I'll cover it.
Black Diamond Contact Strap Crampons: 1.5 years old, heavy use, but a file could make em' as good as new. I've done my hardest leads in these baby's, bomber crampon. $45.00
Joker, 9.1, 60 meter. Used less then a dozen times. Warning: Possible core shot in the dead center, 30 meter mark. Not a fall, raped over a sharp edge. Other then that, still good. I don't know, buy it and make some shoelaces or something. But seriously, cut it up and have two 30 m ropes... $60.00
Set of slung heaxes. Great for climbing at Tieton. $40.00 Yes, I'll cover the shipping on these heafty boys.
Also, I pulled about three hundred feet of webbing out of the enchantments last summer, thus lots and lots of rapel rings. Let me know if you need any of these.
-
Who's that, sounds familiar?
-
Maybe its a lot smaller then it looked? Maybe the rock is just shit? I don't know, but it looked pretty cool at the time all covered in snow. Again, maybe I was just bored.
[TR] Mount Thomson- West Ridge-Direct 6/24/2006
in Alpine Lakes
Posted
You probably already know this, but if you take the old trail out (which is the branch off of the PCT) its easy to follow and saves a full mile of hiking. The more people that use it, the better shape it will stay in.