astrov
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Posts posted by astrov
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Bivy sacks blow around in the wind less than tents.
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climbed Cruisin' this morning with Dennis H. Fun climb! Placed a red micro stopper in before the crux - couldn't get it out. We didn't bail off it, but it's apparently in there pretty well. Let me know if you can get it out.
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A guy I know from work is looking for a roomie, but he's not a climber. He'd be fun to live with, though and he's your age. I am an aspiring climber and definitely not cool. As a fulltime office drone, though, I have a car, gear, and gas, and general desire to climb.
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I think the fear is that the tree itself will give way - and we should preserve it for belaying and not rap off of it, given that there are bolted anchors so close at hand. Again, we rapped off it not knowing there was a bolted anchor right around the corner. (Other problem, I suppose, is that it supposedly takes a 70 m rope to get to the ground [without downclimbing] off the bolted anchor at the top of Pitch 1 of Young Warriors. So maybe you can address that Joseph ... double rope rappells?)
If by "rap the route from that station" you mean rap off the corner tree, please instead consider just looking around the start to cruisin or under the big oak tree to the right of it and on the other side of trail from both. It would likely be somewhere in that vicinity depending on whether, or how far, it bounced on the way down. Besides, rapping off the poor old tree is a suck rappel.Do you think the occasional rap off the tree is going to taint the route more than the eroded holds, crusty chalk stains, and 6-odd rusted ass pins scarred into the rock?
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Or her. it could be a her.
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Thanks OMB; I sent him a text.
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Somebody must have an old hangboard they're not using.
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the radio fell of the end of the second "pitch" (really a run out, 4th class traverse) on SE Corner. At the base of the slab pitch. So there was no rapping off the poor old tree. (Although I did that on a separate occasion last week in the dark and shan't again, now that I know where the YW anchors are.) Dennis H spotted my radio yesterday near the base of cruisin'. it was in one piece, amazingly. We also rapped off the anchor at the top of P2 of YW, so now I know where that is. Thanks for the beta.
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I should probably add that I am not a golfer. Additionally, I'm down for sport, TR ... whatever. My saturday night opened up so I'd be up for a run out to Smith.
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normal climbing partners are otherwise occupied or incommunicado. I've been climbing easy trad recently and would like to go to Beacon, Broughton, or Ozone / Farside for more of same. have rope, gear, car, etc. Don't make me go golfing.
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did 3 pitches of SE Corner; rapped off in the dark. Last car in the lot. Anyone want to climb Sunday?
Semms like we must be ships passing in the daylight. I must have bugged out after my second lap just before you showed up.7/13 - a lap on young warriors w/ geoff and a lap (sans cord) w/ geoff n' adam
7/15 - dod's jam w/ the phuzzy
7/17 - solo corner creep in the late evening before jetting off to pdx to pick up my peeps fresh off their wrong coast plane - read a few chapters and sucked down a liter of burgundy at the ledge until it was too dark to read
7/23 - 2 corner laps in a little more than an hour and done in time to get kids to the dentist, then a long walk by waterfalls (even introducing the bastardos to "5150" along the way, just for you, kev
7/26 - cruise'n to young warriors w/ nastia - bit of a scorcher after noon, specially for the devushka clad all in black - shiiiiiity roadwork delays on 14
7/27 - no one bit on the partner offer, so i spent a leisurely mornign w/ the little people - coffee n' bacon n' cats - went out to beacon at 3, uncertain what to do, packed for anything, and decided along the way, in honor of the olympics, to set a goal to climb as many solo laps as possible on the corner before getting back to the house for pizza n' wine w/ the wife in the evening - settled for 4 laps (bacon-flavored half dome day? BFHDD?) - could have done more i reckon, but ran into the company of Known Felons after lap 1 and that took a little bit of the wind out of my sails
- did the pleasant last lap w/ denalidave, overladen w/ one beer, me ashamed to have left my gin n' juice in the rig for the celebratory drive home perfect day, weather-wise, compared to yday - overcast, cool, variable winds - stoked to see a 3-some spending a night on ground zero, complete w/ double haul-bags n' ledge(s?) (didn't see room for the 3rd, what horrid price did he have to pay i wonder?) - thought to aid-solo ground zero i had, but they skunked me, and then that bastard timetravel'n'steve took my free 4 sum backup! a pox on all their houses!
dave's vid:
[video:youtube]
7/28 - warm n' sunny n' breezy - climbed w/ bob n' the phuzzy, both of whom did piss-poor jobs of Minding the Poisons - majestic snow-white n' toffee-brown owl winging about the arena of doom for a good half-hour - dod's to top-rope windsurfer - pumped stupid after that and the accumulation of yday - then free 4 all via the retard right start - snuff-porn wannabe free solo for 40 fucking feet, foot-stacking in constrictions n' lie-backing to get there, but a good gut-laugh, au-chevel style, at the pillar-top - jim showed late, grumpy to be tobacco-short as he tempts fate to quit - nose-trainers doing fine big-wall machinations, swinging from groudn-zero to flying swallow to practice their pendulums - dave n' crackman n' kyle flitting about - camas days clusterfucking the commute on back home!
7th day at beacon this season
7/31 - last of july - 8 days of beacon rock climbing this month
cruise'n'to right right gull n' then jills thrill w/ miker - bright, breezy n' cold - perfect! booty on jills - beers at the endless construction stops on the way back - how i long for a cigarette...
8/22 - 3 week beacon-hiatus - i'm in danger of losing my BRCA membership
- been cavorting w/ the fam in colorado and at the oregon coast, coincidentally during the bitter depth of that 100+ pdx heatwave when the beach temps were damn near in the 40s each night - managed a dragontail clamber in thare toothe phuzzy made a public-transit trip to rendezvous w/ me in damned washoughal after a wicked reintroduction to work for me at the crack of dawn - climbed young warriors - a baker's half-dozen of wing enabled wave riding wacky-boys out beyond the island - elk herds grazing - good times! closed out the evening w/ little wing to the 1st pitch of right gull and then a sad attempt at tr'ing the off-width on wrong gull that got clubbed-on-the-head at just the right hour
9/5 - quick solo creep - tinywing (half little wing/half corner p1) to the corner to stoner ledge to young warriors - kenny n' ole'larry (thought he quit climbing?!) n' buddy dan at stoner ledge - 10th day at beacon this season.
9/6 - two solo corner laps, one w/ arndt (that is how that old boy spells his name, right?) while he was waiting for the "red ant" to arrive - horrified to find my good name impugned by certain unnamed low-lifes up on the little people ledge - seems they think i've been drinking their cached beer - despite my innocence, i nonetheless searched desperately to find said stranded beer so i could "protect" it better, but no dice
steve, yet again, climbing w/ random cuties, this one crushing on warriors and jills - gotta love an understanding wife!
Ha, good thing I decided to clear the last of my own stashed beer. I think I know where the other guys is...
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#3; PM sent.
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Lost at base of Cruisin' on Thursday, August 30 - Purple VTech "V-Talk" 2-way radio. I actually dropped it from the belay station at the end of pitch 2 of SE Corner and it fell into the void. I'm curious if it survived the fall. I might have to rap the route from that station to see if I can find it. I posted this in the Beacon thread too, and if that's not acceptable, I apologize.
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You should start by checking the Forest Lands Recreation Enhancement Act of 2004 to see if there are more districts violating the law
Well I guess I'm of some utility if it's being violated in the District of Oregon.
What happens when a case spans multiple states? Do you seriously need to get licensed in each?
We'd either defend an enforcement action, which would be filed in federal court and heard by a magistrate judge, or bring a declaratory relief action in state or federal court concerning liability for fees on the NW Forest Pass, although if we filed in state (and why would we do that?) the feds would probably remove it to federal court. I could be admitted to neighboring federal court districts without being admitted in those states. the 9th Circuit's appellate ruling should be controlling law in all districts in the 9th circuit, which I believe includes WA, OR, CA, and ID, among others.
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Lost at base of Cruisin' on Thursday, August 30 - Purple VTech "V-Talk" 2-way radio. I actually dropped it from the belay station at the end of pitch 2 of SE Corner and it fell into the void. I'm curious if it survived the fall. I might have to rap the route from that station to see if I can find it.
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Funny. I probably placed those pieces on the 18th but didn't recognize them 2 days ago. I have a matching wallnut and an unmarked anodized stopper.
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You should start by checking the Forest Lands Recreation Enhancement Act of 2004 to see if there are more districts violating the law
Well I guess I'm of some utility if it's being violated in the District of Oregon.
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is this still happening in the PNW? I'm looking for a winter project once the good weather goes away ... maybe suing the forest service is it.
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no mention of my radio.
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It's not in my rack, so it might be out there. Don't climb on it if you find it.
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At base of hanging gardens yesterday. Not sure if I remembered to grab it upon rappelling back to earth. It wasn't working right so I left it at the base before heading up.
I'd like to investigate and get it back to Petzl if I can confirm that - also, don't climb on it if you find it.
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Many of y'all probably have received or soon will a nifty letter pointing to the Environmental Assessment. Check it out in the Documents Currently Under Public Review:
http://www.blm.gov/or/districts/prineville/plans/index.php
I wish I knew more about eagles and their breeding success. What I have learned is that Golden Eagle breeding success is correlated to food resource availability and weather. The first Oregon survey of Golden Eagles was done in 2011 and noted a decline in the center of the state. Though the survey was intended to be a baseline from which subsequent studies could springboard. What does it all mean?
It strikes me that the pair of Golden Eagles that nest at Trout Lake are garnering a lot of BLM resources.
Did you receive a letter because you're an adjacent landowner?
Nylon Slings
in The Gear Critic
Posted
Y'all ever run your nylon slings through the (clothes) washer and dryer? I figured it might be good to get the years of accumulated dirt out to keep them from wearing as quickly. But maybe I should just get new slings.