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luwayo

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Posts posted by luwayo

  1. i suppose the How To series & FOTH are good places to start. any comments on how i should begin to apply this? i'm a bit wary of self-teaching myself on this topic actually. i've been thinking on it, but not doing much ever since my friend took a tumble on High Mtn. Woody & hit a big flake on the way down. in hindsight i could have aided my way up (or could i have?), or walked out on the train tracks ofcourse, but i chose to grovel/simper/squirm & slide back up that muddy descent gully. anyhow, i feel i need another bag of tricks for the next time i find myself in a pickle. and i'd rather draw on some scrap of experience than have to sort out the permutations of theory under pressure. i am also unskilled in placing/removing pins, identifying good cracks, and ofcourse am a little bewildered by the weaponry. some exposure to this would be good too. don't be alarmed - i'm not intending to pound on the crags or any tourist routes!

     

    the alpine is where my heart is, but my lack of talent is really starting to show as inadequate for my desires. 2005 will be more of a cragging year in the *hopes* of not needing to aid a 5.9!....and on it goes.

  2. They why ask rolleyes.gif

    ...I was just hoping somebody could throw down some good suggestions as to brands or particular boots that I might want to check out, or warn me of some that just suck.

     

    Invernos/Vegas - for wide volume foot. i find they are ok for snow slogs; but they suck for articulation on rock, and transitional low/moderate angle over ice. think frankenstein! i got them b/c of the wide toe box. if you're a wt. freak, go with custom thermal liners - warmer to boot!

     

    would have liked alphas (lighter & gives more articulation), but they're built on a curved last that's too aggressive for my straight feet.

     

    noticed when i was in the bugs, that folks out thata way have way more selection than the Vancouver stores give us.

     

    hope your search isn't the ordeal that mine was.

  3. RideT61, i can appreciate this undertaking of yours & your choice of fabric. i've held off for a long time on making my own pack. but with respect to fabric, i can share with you what i detest most about my Kelty Flight, which i've almost abandoned. the section that rests on your back is made of ripstop & it slides around like a bugger - especially if worn over a nylon windshirt or even gortex. for non-tech overnight it's *tolerable*, but after adding hardware & rope it can become a bit of a nuisance, for example: the pack slips around as i'm walking down wet or icy talus, or climbing/crawling over big windfall. so you better have a super snug fitting hipbelt & sternum strap to go with. for this reason alone, i returned to the Khamsin. good luck!

  4. I have em. Approx. 4-5cm diam PVC. Each piece sawed off to boot width. Thread some sturdy shock cord & tie. Shock cord should accomodate pulling the gizmo on/off over your boot & gator. That simple!

    If you want to use tape, it only serves to block snow from catching a ride; makes little dif if you're gliding, but wt. freaks might tape off ends for lifting those snowshoes. Choice of tape doesn't matter much. That clear red tape for insulation (just in Canada?) is more durable than duct tape for this (& many applications). Freezing is not an issue with this device. While you're making them this rainy Saturday, hack off a few more for your friends.

  5. some lucky buggers are going to squish tomorrow, and i had been toying with the idea of taking chinese new year off too. but i can't play because i pulled my hamstrings on a stupid overhang climb at the gym. now i don't condition myself with those strenuous bouldering problems; and my route was definitely sustained; and i'm a slacker when it comes to stretching. but other aside from that, can anyone 'splain the hamstring problem from climbing the overhanging stuff?

  6. brings to mind some morbid stats (lifted from someone else's cut & paste job - don't know who compiled it). sadly it doesn't surprise me about the 1 in 5. As Brian Miller believes, "the numbers catch up to you". i hate that sobering thought.

     

    Lifetime risks:

     

    driver being killed in an auto accident......1 in 75

    person dying of heart disease................1 in 6

    smoker dying of related disease..............1 in 3

    mountaineer being killed in the field........1 in 5

    auto racer...................................1 in 90 (this person is more likely to die in a regular auto accident!)

    hang glider..................................1 in 133

     

    Safest sports: ping pong and badminton

  7. i’m on my 4th pair of SS after exchanges made each consecutive spring (msr/atlas user). the list of good/bad is long but the salient pts i care to make are perhaps not commonly mentioned, regardless, they are common complaints amongst my cohorts & i:

    MSR bindings: (-) if high mileage user, you could develop forefoot problems from the middle strap if you choose to wear (wet) leathers or some other soft boot; (+) already mentioned but worth repeating – best SS for sidehilling due to side traction bars.

    Atlas claw/crampon: (-) notorious for growing giant snowballs. i think it's to do with the rivet underneath. is there a way to defeat this problem?

    Atlas welded join: (-) another reliable weak point…the welded piece breaks off…. and now, the so called improvement marketed in 2004 utilizes a plastic v-insert to join the aluminium tube at the back; now the plastic breaks instead. V-shape is the design flaw.

    These problems arose over bi/tri-weekly use from scramble/mtnr’g type episodes; not your X-mas holiday/hot chocolate tours on Cypress.

    Will not be replacing SS this season as I’ve recently taken up falling down on ^* sticks cantfocus.gif

     

    despite these problems, and having accepted their limited durability, i think MSR or Atlas are the best performers for our snow. i don't have a verdict for TSLs yet; but for a handful of folks i know, the (-) very fancy Tubbs ratchet bindings have been cracking after one use.

  8. Lindt or Droste chocolate are one of my 11 essentials

     

    as for reading material, i've tried bringing along taoist literature in the hopes it would take my mind off whichever immature, needy or high maintenance primadona is spreading their joy....but it doesn't work. so next time, low grade smut it shall be ! blush.gif

  9. i'm breaking in a new boss & have informed him that i *normally* take a day off mid-week in the winter, ofcourse the monsoon is really interfering with that. i wish i had posted this plea for mid-wk company when the ice was in cry.gif. i'm based in beautiful Whalley,BC smirk.gif and crossing the boarder is not a big issue for me. guess i should bump this nx week, in the hopes that the biblical rains will cease by then. only moderates need apply crazy.gif

  10. i’m organizing a trip nearby Waddington for 9 days this summer & am wondering: what have been the most useful/useless items (climbing or comfort related) that you’ve taken for a remote climbing trip; and was there anything you wished you had brought along?

     

    as with the Big Wad, which I am not doing, this’ll be mixed stuff, in the traditional sense.

     

    a plug for White Saddle Air – they will soon have their brand spanking new long ranger in operation –get yourselves booked so Mike can log some practice hours before he flys me in wink.gif the BC forest fires were good to Mike last summer! picture chopper scenes from Apocalypse Now.

     

    This ought to go on a separate thread, but for now - any gear suggestions for up to AD routes in them there parts? i’m thinking Serra one & two for example.

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