Fuggedaboudit

"An alpinist is an optimist with bad short term memory" - Barry Blanchard

Would you consider Lib Ridge if still in condition at that time? Have made 2 prior attempts and partners cant try again til next year.

On Sat 4/23 flew into Sea-Tac from NY, bought food and fuel. By 8AM we (party of 2) were at Ipsut Creek trailhead after self registering. At that time the weather forecast was for possible showers eve of 4/24, partly cloudy (no precip) Monday and Tuesday. Packed food for 3 days, fuel for 4. Road into Ipsut trailhead is in good shape this year, much better than last year. The trail up to Dick Creek campground is in good shape and pleasant. There is a log bridge just before Dick Creek camp that is washed out. it still spans creek but it is upside down. In AM on way in we forded the water but on way out in PM the water was much higher and faster so we straddled the log and slid across slowly. Just past Dick Creek there is snow on the trail up and on the switchbacks. As you near about 5,300' or so the snow gets DEEP. We postholed through wet deep snow knee deep for hours. By 6,000 we were punching through to our waists at times. Made camp at 6,300 or so just as rain, light hail started. Rained all night but not super heavy. Mon Am we break camp and head up to Curtis Ridge intending to drop down onto Carbon and head up to Thumb Rock for eve. But the wind is really blowing, about 30 mph, possibly gusting higher. Looking at Carbon there is plenty of snow, the route across glacier from both from St. Elmo or from Curtis is laid out. Looked like it would be easy to get up onto toe of Lib Ridge by obvious large snow ramp on Liberty Wall side of toe. Lib Ridge itself has lots of snow on it, lower lib ridge (up to T.R.) looked plenty covered by snow as far as rockfall goes. However there were snow plumes comming of Thumb rock at least as long as thumb R. is high as we scoped route. Huge snow plumes comming of upper Curtis onto Wilis Wall, hundreds of feet long. Wind up there was probably 50mph, and funny thing was it was comming from East. We called Rangers for recorded forecast. The two days of good weather were gone, replaced by low pressure, thunderstorm that eve and showers the next day. That killed our window. No point in pushing through deep snow on glacier to be stuck in 1-2 days bad weather at Thumb, run out of fuel and have to descend. As we hiked out saw large lenticular over Columbia Crest. So next year (third attempt) wil have to be the charm. For the rest of you, good luck and my 2cents of advice: aproach from White River!!! We saw only one other set of tracks, 3-4 people, one with snowshoes that made it to about our camp and turned around. I dont think anyone else has been up as high as we made it. The snow conditions are just shit. Simply no reason to endure that elevation climb on Ipsut approack with W. River opening next week. The route from our high point on curtis ridge looked good, snow on upper route, especially the all-important slope between top of Black Pyramid and 13,000'. Also looked like there was a snow slope that you coud take to right of 13,000' up over bergshrund to Lib Cap. We brought 4 pickets and 7 screws but didnt look like we would have used screws. GOOD LUCK TO ALL OF YOU AND HOPE THIS SAVES SOME HEADACHES AND HEARTBREAK. Finally, just wanted to say that when I ask for route conditions on this site I really dont think you need to post S&R photos of helicopter body recoveries instead of telling me whether or not the snowbridges on Carbon were still solid last mid May, which is what I was looking for when I asked for "info" not "people can get hurt or die doing this". I think this site is a great rescource for information but am really turned off by someone anonymously parenting me to "climb the mountain on her terms not yours". You dont know me, I dont know you. The difference is, I keep my mouth shut.

Party of 2 heading into park from Ipsut Sat about 1pm. Are your plans still 4/21-26? You might already be on your way and not get this but in case you do GOOD LUCK. Just this AM the forecast took a slight turn for the worse for Sun-Tues, 10% showers up to 30%-40%. If we meet up at Thumb Rock or so more than happy to switch leads breaking trail if its postholing. Sounds like you may be the first party(s) on route this season.

Should be in the park 4/23 Sat eve to camp, start early for nice easy day Sun on the approach in from Ipsut, taking my time since I'm comming from sea level. Looks like you guys have had stable weather for a few days, hope it holds out through Tuesday! I'll post something once I get back. All you locals get up there Friday-Sunday and kick in some steps!!

Alex- thanks for Athabasca reference. Have been under NF before so appreciate the point of reference. Hope to use alpine start and full moon to cross Carbon and get onto ridge before dawn on day 2. Partner very skilled at glacier travel, so with full moon should be doable. Have been told same thing about rockfall dropping off once above T. Rock by another who has done route. Going end of April, sooner rather than later. Thanks, hopefully something worth posting in six weeks or so.

Alpinfox- Good advice on the full moon that I will use to schedule my trip, whether in May or April. Dru- obviously weather will dictate everything but my point is that I have to plan at least 1 month ahead, so I'll be out west whether it is bluebird or not. Nothing I can do about the weather, my question has more to do with whether the ridge conditions will likely be better earlier than later, and it appears that the sooner the better. Dulton- I plan on bringing fuel for 6 days and food for 4 days, so I was already planning on the route taking at least a day or two longer than the normal 3.

Looking to return for a second try this year. Since I am flying out from NY have to plan in advance (work, wife, etc). Originally I was looking at mid-May but have since learned that Paradise has only gotten 50% of usual snow through March 1 this year. Any advice on whether mid-May looks good or whether I should try to move it up into April appreciated. Input from people who have been on mountain this year or have done Lib Ridge themselves especially appreciated!

Climb: - Date of Climb: 9/5/04 Trip Report: Originally hoped for the North Face. Climbed with THE MAN, Barry Blanchard, contact him through Yamnuska Guide Service. We got up into the bowl at the base of the NF, about 20 meters in elevation below the first ice, but Barry felt the entire bowl was unstable after doing avy tests on way up the bowl (it had been heavily slabbed the day before). Weather looked like it was going to crap and we saw party abandoning the Silverthorn. Nice thing about climbing with a living legend, Barry was like- whadya wanna do- super mello- wanna descend? I'm like shit, came a long way from Brooklyn and I'm like F-it can we get up another way? As if he's gonna say, no. The thing is, nothing I can second in my life is ever gonna phase this guy to lead. So we dropped down and traversed left. Went up a snow gully that is between the N Ridge and the NF (hence, the NF bypass). This then took us to the upper N Ridge (crappy rock) and then up and over to the summit. Of course as we hit summit ridge (beautiful) the weather cleared and it was gorgeous at the top. Descended the AA col. The endless scree on descent sucks, no two ways about it. Gear Notes: I brought two Quarks. Wished I had brought a ski pole! Approach Notes: Watch out for avalanche risk as you approach NF! One bad thing about using guides, you can rely to much on them and forget to be self-reliant. Need to take Avalanche Awareness Courses before I head back out west. If it was just me and a friend I would have just plodded up.

I think you should look at the LaSportiva K4S. They are the best think I ever bought. They felt fine on a 14 hour Athabasca climb this past September, and in 10 degree New England Ice climbs this past winter were warm enough. They are a single leather boot with a synthetic rubberized coating on the outer lower boot. So far, waterproof, but they are still single boots, so my main concern is always that you cant take out inner boots and dry them out in sleeping bag overnight. But on 40 degree French slopes they make Invernos feel like chewing glass. I'm sure the boots you are looking at are a bit lighter than the K4s, but unless you can aford a closet full of specialty boots, this one boot should cover anything in the Cascades.

Actually ... on second thought ... a friend who is a VERY experienced climber was at the base of the ridge and said the rocks were comming down like rain. He was going to be my partner ona September attempt. If HE thinks its too much objective hazzard then thats it, 2005 it is. Heading up to Athabasca instead. Thanks guys for bringing me back to reality. The riot shield image helped alot.

Hopefully the climber that they saw on the Carbon has a partner who can be helped. Those climbing rangers and the helicopter pilots are doing one hell of a job this year. And if your only source of information about Rainier and rescues has been the last two tradgedies as reported on TV all a cellphone would give you confidence of is quick notice to next of kin. Neither of the two parties resorted to cellphones until a serious fall had occurred. Neither party called for assistance because they were in over their head, they called in to attempt to save an injured companion's life. I dont think it is quite the Chamonoix syndrome yet where people call in helicopters because they forgot their brie.

Will light a candle for Jon's family this Sunday in St. Patricks Cathedral. As in the previous posts, THANK YOU for giving other climbers who have or will attempt this same route the FACTS about what happenned. Hope your knee is doing OK.

Thanks guys, especially fear, pete a and brukb. The way might very well be an overnight push up the ridge, getting near bergshrund by early morning. Hey- on the plus side there wont be postholing or avalances! And no crowds at thumb rock! Hell, even if we can't get up on the ridge due to glacier conditions at all, its still such a beautiful mountain that I'll be coming out there. After not even seeing it for three days (weather) on my first attempt I'd take just seeing it up close as a step forward. I know it will still be there in May. Problem is its there in September too. I probably will just have to learn my lesson like "brukb" did, and by the way- congratulations on your fifth! Post some pictures and a trip report. Its always cool to read about someone's success, but its much cooler to read about someones perserverance.

Made an earlier attempt this year the week before Memorial Day. Three straight days of rain/sleet, low visibility and wind, barometer kept on dropping. Didn't even get up on the ridge to force the issue, and flew back to NYC just as the weather improved. Want to give it a go again this year. Will be party of two and looking at a block of four days around Labor Day weekend. While I know the route was first climbed in late September, and have read the story in Dee Molenar's book is there anyone who has done it or attempted the route in late summer early winter conditions? I would expect there to be greater objective (rockfall) danger, and so would plan on getting to the Curtis Ridge camp on day one, setting up camp and then scouting the Carbon (which I expect would be pretty fractured) for a route onto the ridge. Day two would be a alpine start and push up to thumb rock. Then spend the day at thumb, sleep early and break camp about 1AM to be above black pyramid before dawn. This sounds like a great plan from my livingroom. But so did leaving Gore Tex shell behind on the last trip to "travel light and fast" .

Guys thanks alot, especially Stephen Ramsey, Fear and NOLSe. I have decided to throw out the Stephenson and the Hilleberg so now its down to the Eldorado and the Integral Designs MK1 XL. I have checked out the Pro Mountain Sports website, and a friend who is an AMGA guide had previously told me that that was an awesome store and they REALLY know what they're doing over there. They recommend the MK1 XL with the light floor option. They also offer the tent in Event for $80 more which drops the weight 6oz. That brings the packed weight down to 3lbs 15oz!! How You Dooin? The MK1 XL in Event with the light floor sounds like the hotrod setup right there, and I wont always be worried about its durability or strength in wind like with the Stephenson. I also want to thank you guys that pointed me towards the hanging stove setup. I've never used it before but had thought of it (every time my white gas stove flares up during priming). I'm going to get an MSR hanging kit and use it on a few overnights in the Aidirondacks before I try the system for the first time in the NW. That takes care of the vestibule (thanks Fear). By the way, Integral's customer service told me the tent comes fully taped and sealed except for the eight points on the inside where the velcro straps holding the two poles are stiched onto the tent (since this happens after the tent is sewn and sealed). They supply sealer for this with the tent.

Hey Guys- Thinking about buying a top notch tent. Primary use would be for 3-4 day climbs. Obviously the big concerns are weight, weather resistance and practicality as a mountaineering shelter. The tent will be pitched on snow most of the time. I have been kicking around three options- the Nallo 2, the Bibler I-Tent (Integral Design), and the Stephensons Warmlite 3R. A few considerations are that I am 6'3" and 195#. Second, for me a vestibule without a floor is a very important feature (that boot/cooking hole). Although the Stephenson is the lightest, and extra pound or two is not going to be the #1 factor for me. Also the Stephenson is about $200 more seam sealed than a Nallo 2(which would add a few oz.s anyway right?). The big turn off with the Stephenson for me is that there isnt a vestibule without a floor for cooking. I also think the material they are made of isnt flame resistant. The turn off with the Bibler/Integral Design is that you have to buy a vestibule which, once added makes it more expensive than the Nallo 2 and weigh about the same packed. Furthermore I've read reviews by guys over 6' who are squashed in a I-Tent. All I've heard about the Hillbergs are that they are Bomber Bomber Bomber and have an awesome customer service/warranty and really stand behind their product. But all of these are assumptions by me. I'm hoping to hear from any of you out there who have used one of these three tents, especially on "up and over" climbs such as Liberty Ridge. I also feel that any tent for $500 or more should be durable, and last for a dozen climbs at least. Thanks ahead of time for you input!

Didn't see the helicopter, that would have been ominous on the hike in. We were setting up our tent between Old Desolate and Mystic Lake when you were at the Carbon terminus. No need for you to feel bad about descending from Thumb Rock, since 5/26, 5/27 & 5/28 were sleet/rain, low vis and windy. Only view of the mountain were during the first few hours of our approach on 5/25. Haven't heard any news about an injured climber when we were on the mountain, so no news is good news. We followed one set of tracks pretty much until about 6500 and then dropped down a bit to set up camp out of the wind we knew was comming in. So far I only think one solo climber has done the Ridge this year (early May).

Fear- I just replied to you e-mail you sent before you left NE. I responded to that and then found this trip report. We headed in on 5/25 when you guys were on the way down from Thumb. I think we passed you two guys now that I think about it. Did you two stop for food at around the coleman terminus at about 1pm to eat? We were the party of three headed up. If so I REALLY WISH I HAD STOPPED TO TALK TO YOU THEN. Spent the next three days and three nights waiting at 6200' for weather window that never came. Poor vis, wind and constant rain/sleet for almost 72 hours until we headed out. Returning Labor Day weekend for attempt out of White River (looks like a MUCH easier approach). I really wish I had brought my Gore Tex shell and pants. For those of you who haven't already found out the hard way soft shell water resitance DOES NOT mean water proof.