mughjie

We tried to do the Ingrahm Direct 3/6-7 and found the going on the lower Ingrahm (left side going up) just above the Flats pretty tough. Lots of wind-blown snow barely covering small to mid-sized crevasses and lots of big crevasses blocking the way. We and 2 other parties bagged it after poking around at 11,500ft and not being able to find a way through. I would keep this in mind for any route that involves coming down the Ingrahm (i.e. Gib Ledges).

Whichever route you do on the Grand, don't forget that the biggest traffic jam happens on the descent. Most parties rap the OS route and one can get stuck waiting there for quite a while. With the afternoon thunderstorms, it can be an exciting place to sit.

My bad. West Ridge.

Went up Forbidden on Saturday (5/1). Ridge dry and bare, a little snow on the North side of the ridge but completely manageable. The couloir is a little slushy but otherwise no problems.