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AFIVE

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Everything posted by AFIVE

  1. Conrad Anker slideshow PDX

    Trust me dude...I didn't come up with that one. One of his nicknames. Sorry if you found it cheezy!
  2. rewire a cam?

    The U.S. Outdoor Store in Portland has a large selection of Camalot and Friend trigger kits for all sizes.
  3. With all the snow and cold temps in Bend.....has anyone been curious enough to head up to Paulina Falls to see if it's stiff yet?
  4. banks lake

    I was at Banks on Friday and Saturday. Friday seemed really warm! I don't know what the temps were that day, but it seemed to be melting the ice. It cooled back down and Saturday was much colder. Salt and Pepper was huge the last two seasons. Like ffpm79 said it must rely on more snow melt. I also believe that the water flows off the mesa differently from year to year. The Cable was close (another two weeks) You could TR it, but the first 15 feet would be DTing to the ice. Champagne is trying, and Scotch on the rocks is looking good. The Emerald is about as close as the Cable. Not much on H2O2 or Zenith. Flows that were big the last two seasons were non existant, and other flows that weren't in last year were looking close to being in. I know of three folks that headed to Strobach on Sunday....Hopefully they will let us know what they saw. As long as the daytime temps are right around freezing....Things will be well worth the drive in a couple of weeks.
  5. banks lake

    I have been up in the cave looking at the four to six bolted lines. They do look possible to drytool. I didn't get on any of the lines not knowing if they were rock climbs or mixed/DT routes. I also have never seen any drips near the cave. It looks like my crack climbing plans for this weekend are a bit chilly and white. I guess I'll make the drive on Friday morning!! I will be there Friday and Saturday. I'll post what I see or don't see on Sunday. Hopefully I'll have some good news to report.
  6. Mike- Do you have to stay in Estes? I have a few buddies in Boulder and Ft. Collins you could stay with for free. Let me know and I'll put you in touch with them. Are you headed to Loch Vale, or Glacier Gorge for some ice? Give me the dates you will be there as well. These guys travel quite a bit, so I will see who will be around.
  7. banks lake

    It sounds like the cave. Right up on the summit just to the south of the ice route "the cable". Haven't tried them yet. Wasn't sure if they were rock routes or not. They do look burley for DTing. Have you sent them with rubber and skin? Would you want a bunch of steel all over your routes? The first time I noticed the routes there was a fixed static line from the top of the cave. We are talking about the same spot? The daytime temps have plummeted on the 10 day forcast. Somethin' has to be stiffening up soon. I may do a recon sooner than later. Thanks for the responses Paul and Marty. John if the cave I saw is the same as Marty's routes I can get you the beta. If Marty doesn't mind you scratching around on his rock climb that is.
  8. Deck off Ruby's Cafe

    Gri Gri's are nice on grade VI walls. Three hour belay stints kinda suck without one. Feeding out a few feet and tying a backup knot on the brake end is super handy for relieving yourself or digging around in the haulbag. That being said....if you are on a thin nailing route....probably not a good idea due to the non dynamic properties. They are also good for lazy sport climbers who don't want to hold onto their hangdog buddy up at bolt number whatever.
  9. You're the commander.....if you say so.
  10. Thanks for the compliment on firing that bad ride off back in 90! See Mike I am not the only one who agrees that it gets better from there on up. "Wimsey" also made the same comment about the upper pitches. My beta on traversing over to the base is just slightly quicker and easier than rapping in. What did you think of the "good book"? That is deffinately worth sending the next time you are down there. Buck up and give that thing another go....you will be psyched you did. That route is great, and you really were through the hard scary part.
  11. Need an adjustment before the tryptophane hangover sets in? On November 23rd, Sarah Conroy, a portland area Chiropractor plans to donate all treatment monies collected in her office to the Access Fund! She graciously also did this for Bend area climber and photographer, Ben Moon, and raised over 700.00 for the Moon Cancer Fund! This is great news and the timing is perfect!! From November 1st through December 31st, all donations and membership monies received by the Access Fund will be matched dollar for dollar as part of the Access Fund's Fundraiser Challenge. This would not be possible without the help of many of the AF's corporate partners. So get yourself adjusted, or make a donation before December 31st. It's tax deductable! Sarah Conroy West Hills Chiropractic 1070 N.W. Murray Blvd. Suite A Portland, OR 97229 (503) 644-5100
  12. access fund fundraiser in PDX

    I am just informing folks who like what the Access Fund does and want to support them. This is an opportunity for someones money donation to get doubled by corporate sponsors. The Access Fund ends up with twice as much money.
  13. Deck off Ruby's Cafe

    If you can believe it, he walked away from this with a buised rib! After speaking with three different people who all sent this to me. The best we could come up with is he was placing gear that was too small. The first cam was a blue Metolius cam and the second cam that pulled was a blue Trango flexcam. These are both smaller than the Yellow Metolius cams which fill ruby's all the way to the anchor. He fell from the first crux. Perhaps he was saving his yellow's for the upper crux at the roof. Borrow or buy more!
  14. access fund fundraiser in PDX

    They are really close to saving the Madrone Wall!!! www.savemadrone.org
  15. Tape Use Poll

    thanks
  16. Anyone who enjoys Indian Creek just the way it is should read this. You can go to www.moabdesertadventures.com/foic.htm This is the Environmental Assesment. They are giving climbers two years to police themselves. After the two years if there is still toilet paper and cat holes rather than folks using wag bags, they want to build some restrooms and established campgrounds which will all cost money. If you like the free disperssed camping have a read and sign up for the free membership for friends of Indian Creek.
  17. Go to the link in the beginning of this thread and read it!
  18. Strawberry Lake Ice Conditions?

    Sorry!! It is Hauter. Marcus I sent you his e-mail in a PM. Ask him about the long difficult ice route he did a few years ago. I think it is still waiting to see a second ascent.
  19. Timmy O'Neill climbed "Space" on El Cap with his brother Sean who is paralyzed from the waist down. They did the route in 7 days and 6 nights. His slide show will be at the Patagonia Store in Portland Oregon on November 9th at 7:00 pm. It's FREE....come on by for a killer trip report and Timmy's hi jinx and antics!
  20. Timmy said you can go to seracfilms.com and click on shootoutboulder and down load the quicktime called "altered dates". It is a big file so it may take a while. Hope you get it.
  21. So true!! Unfortunately they won't be out there counting the the quantities of living Crypto. They will however notice if folks are squeezing sites inbetween sites and notice how much toilet paper is floating around. This isn't the first time climbers are getting singled out. Let's just all do our part to keep the government out of our fun!! Your method could be inplemented after the fact of a bunch of climbers being stubborn and thinking they are above it all. Let's keep it the same so we don't have to resort to poaching.
  22. Strawberry Lake Ice Conditions?

    Mark Howden is most likely the cat you want to talk to. Blue Mtn. Sports in La Grande may be able to put you in touch with him.
  23. Tape Use Poll

    I never use it and I don't get all bloddy. The occasional gobi on a hard route which falls off in a few weeks. I don't know what to say about the leather theory. It seems to be working. Not using tape also forces you to use better foot work rather than just stuffing your meat mitts into the crack without paying much attention to how you are putting it in there. Foot work is always the key!
  24. I will ask him if he is cool with sending that to me. I'm not sure if he is planning on using that in an upcomming movie or not. If he isn't....I'm sure he will send it over.
  25. Colorado Early Season Ice

    The last time I checked Rocky Mountain National Park was NOT at Vantage. Dale how did Necrophilia look over to the right? Also, was the ice cragging area below Loch Vale in yet? Squid? Calamari? What else did you see!!? I'm jealous....I hate work!!
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