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wfinley

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Posts posted by wfinley

    Moderate and accessible routes in AK?

    in Alaska

    Posted

    I'm not too familiar with the climbing around Fairbanks. I know there is decent rock (by Ak road accessibility standards) but you'll have to deal with mega bugs and forest fires if you try to climb it in July and August. There is a rock guide here: https://sites.google.com/a/alaska.edu/alaska-alpine-club/rock-guide

     

    As for Anchorage... If you're coming from the lower 48 and are used to good solid rock I would say abandon your desire to climb something technical. There is granite in the Talkeetnas (1.5 hrs N) but it is notoriously wet and loose. It's fun climbing but if you only have a few days I would suggest 3rd / 4th class scrambles in the Chugach instead. Long 3rd class day climbs like Rumble, Bold, Bashful or even the Suicides (20 minutes from downtown) are great fun and can be done solo. There are technical routes in the Chugach but for the most part the rock is horrid and hundreds of feet of loose 5.4 is only enjoyed by a select few.

     

    You could fly into Little Switzerland or some place similar... But Alaskans tend to have more time than money so you're unlikely to find weekend climbers willing to drop $650. You're more likely to find climbers willing to slog for 20 days for $50.

     

    Here are some links for you. Enjoy your visit!

     

    Anchorage/Chugach:

    http://www.summitpost.org/chugach-mountains/593532

    http://www.akmountain.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.intro-region&regionid=142

    http://trondsalaskaadventures.blogspot.com/

    http://screeshark.blogspot.com/

     

    Talkeetnas:

    http://www.akmountain.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.intro-region&regionid=143

     

    Anchorage rock guide:

    http://www.alaskarockclimbing.com/

    passing ethics

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    While slower parties are frustrating... At least climbers in NA tend be be polite. In Thailand many of the routes share 4 or 5 bolts at the start and the locals consider it totally fair game to wait till you're 3 or more bolts past the split and then climb up and unclip your rope / draws and clip their rope in. As for Europe... All is fair in Europe. Don't be alarmed if a climber yards on your gear or steps on your rope while pushing past you.

    resoling lightweight mountain boots?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    In one season I successfully wore my Salewa Rapace boots down to a smooth sole. Anyone have any luck with resoling lightweight boots such as these? In the past I had a pair of Trangos resoled only to find that the footbed was so packed out that I was unable to wear them without pain so I'm wondering if it's worth it (my feet are pretty sensitive).

    Seeking rope recommendation,Denali West Rib Cutoff

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    60m is fine. Depending on snow / ice coverage / this years route there is only one section where you might pitch it out on the Upper Rib - but the distance between gear / good stances is short. As for diameter, I've always been a fan of 8.5 for glacier ropes. 8mm is too thin for my comfort level when you consider all the crap you'll have to deal with in the event of a big crevasse fall.

    Denali tents, 3p or 4p? (for 3 people)

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    3 person. The Hilleberg 3 person Nammatj is huge (the 2 person Nammatj would be more than adequate for a 3 people for a few days). The giganotosaurus vestibule is nice but it's too much area to deal with (in terms of shoveling) in extended storms. Likewise if you're doing the Rib cutoff the 17 highcamp isn't that big and is very exposed. The smaller the better for that camp.

     

    Everyone and their mother carries too much stuff on the West Butt so if you're stuck at 11 or 14 for days just walk around and make friends with people who have megamids. Much better than carrying and shoveling out spots for your own tent.

     

    Open source alpinism

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    How many non-upper-middle-class-white climbers have you met? Economies of scale are the reason we have a leisure class. The white middle upper class demographic has benefited greatly from the business models that have lead to such things as not-at-all-cheap-lightweight-use-once-jackets that last for one trip.

     

    Furthermore the growth and success of the outdoor industry is why we're seeing a person like Sally Jewell nominated for secretary of the interior. A person who comes from a background representing the outdoor industry is a far cry from past appointments like Kempthorne.

     

    I fully agree with a lot of what you're saying - which is why I choose gear from smaller companies like Serratus (RIP), Cilo, Western Mountaineering etc. when I can. But I also recognize that multinational outdoor companies have more sway when it comes to protecting public lands than the mom and pop shops working out of a garage.

    Open source alpinism

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Good one, but I will still say that soft goods drive industry while hardware lasts forever. My niece got married last year and an El Cap first ascender gave her a wind chime made out of bongs and big pins that are no longer relevant. Soft goods wear out much more quickly and make a lot more money.

     

    And I can assure you that many climbers are scientific and engineering and not liberal arts, no offense.

    Obsolete gear drives industry as well. Do you still climb in your EBs and with straight shaft ice tools? And ski with 404s?

    And I said bums... The bums all have English & philosophy degrees. The engineers have jobs.

    Open source alpinism

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    How is this any different than its always been? El Cap can be climbed with pitons, Denali with bunny boots. New tools make it easier and generate industry - and while pitons and bunny boots work just fine and last forever everyone has the latest greatest gear. Furthermore the notion of doing more with less is an ideal that doesn't exist when you consider the fact that climbing is primarily a middle/upper white pursuit and that climbing bums are generally from well to do families & have a (fully paid for) liberal arts degree.

    And I bet you thought Twight was dead.....

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I am sure Chinese really worry about environmental impact.

    Tvash was actually referring to the Nepalese government. Revenue from mountaineering and tourism in the Annapurna and Everest regions has improved the quality of life for the people in those regions. Electricity, schools and medical centers exist becuase the the money from trekkers and mountaineers. Sure there is wealth discrepancy and environmental impacts (deforestation / garbage etc.) but those issues exist in all third world countries. At least the people in heavily visited areas of Nepal are aware that environmental issues directly impact tourism in their regions.

    And I bet you thought Twight was dead.....

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Typical recommended dose of Diamox is now a "tanked on a bag full of drugs" somehow?
    O2 is doping but not diamox?

    The rumors were at 14 camp where gossip and innuendo are the norm.

     

    As for drugs -- half of the high altitude climbers out there are sucking down Diamox from the start and dropping Dexamethasone on summit day. Using drug technology is no different than hauling light gear and ditching it at 17K on Denali to speed things up.

     

     

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