jport

Lowell- Great gear tips... that's exactly what I wanted to read.

Our group of three is planning to complete the traverse in two long days. Day One: approach scramble to Torment Basin/Taboo Glacier, Southeast face, bivy. I've been told that there are several suitable bivy spots along the ridge just east of the Southeast face climbing route. (There is also a larger "camp" area on the west col beside Torment- though it doesn't fit into a Southeast face climb). Day Two: Complete traverse along ridge to Forbidden via West Ridge, Rap/downclimb West Ridge or NE face (TBD), hike out of Boston Basin to the car. Simulclimbing and efficient teamwork should allow a comfortable climb inside of two days. Of course, other people have done the entire route in one day (we would rather savor the views and enjoy a stellar bivy on the ridge).

Yes, we'll likely be doing alot of simulclimbing over 4th-class and low-5th class rock. It's good to know that there are lots of horns to hitch along the W. ridge of Forbidden. I've heard mixed reports of the quality/soundness of the rock up there. Last year, a group of friends bailed off the ridge due to poor rock (among other factors). We'll likely take a picket (or two) with us. "Winter"- who dat? Last weekend we were at Smith. Too much: has left you confused.

We're planning to work the Torment-Forbidden Traverse this weekend: Taboo Glacier, Southeast Face of Torment, Ridgeline traverse, West Ridge of Forbidden, Boston Basin. Does anyone have any gear beta to share? I'd like to thin my rock rack out and go light. Also, would you take a picket or two for the ridgeline snow traverses? Any info will be helpful. Thanks!

Wow, you guys have been busy here. Do I dare to even add my two cents?... of course. I have some great photos of the Gib Ledges weekend, but have had problems with my scanner. I'll pass them onto seatosky and Snickers and maybe they can post them for me. Yes, we'll be scoping out Leuthold Couloir on Mt. Hood this weekend. It will be nice to show the "Seattle Crew" my neighborhood mountain. Peace