Jbetoo

Thanks for the help. I'll for sure post a trip report when I return (August 20 after spending time in southern Peru). One of my partners made quick work of Ishinca and Urus, then turned around one pitch from the summit of Yanapaccha, due to darkness. Late start, I guess. He's just chillin' until I arrive. The other guy, after climbing stuff around Arequipa, is going for Artesonaju and Quitaraju this week. Conditions are reportedly still good (as of 7/16, at least) on several peaks. Might just do Copa and Pisco in addition to Urus and Ishinca and call it a trip. Then will indulge myself in Pisco -- the beverage.

I'm headed to Peru next week for 25 days. Anybody been in the Blanca recently? I'm thinking of starting with either Urus/Ishinca or Pisco/Yanapaccha/Huandoy Oeste to get started, then going after some other more difficult peaks. More concerned with conditions on Huandoy but any information about these valleys would be much appreciated. Two buddies are climbing there right now but won't get out of the mountains until I'm flying into Lima. Itchin' for info, that's all.

Mammoth Ski Area has guaranteed to be open through July 4 and will likely stay open through July. Tons of snow.

Castle Peak off I-80 near Truckee would be ideal for where you are at. On the South Shore, Tallac is sweet but takes an entire day for the most part. Even farther south, toward Kirkwood, are Red Lake and Stevens Peak, both killer terrain with relative short walks and long descents if you can set up a two-car shuttle at Hope Valley and Carson Pass. We've gotten a bunch of snow this season but not much recently, so conditions will be quite varied but likely safe. Have fun. PM me if you need more info.

I'm living at 7,500 feet so I figure I'll be fine heading up Orizaba on day 5, then bolting over (if that's possible in Mexico) and doing Ixta in one long day from La Joya. Is camping at the base of the glacier on Orizaba worth it? I've heard too many stories about thieves at the huts. At least maybe that would minimize danger. Thanks for the info.

Headed down to Mexico next weekend. For those who have climbed these two peaks, what was your acclimitization schedule? I don't think my 20,000+ schedule is necessary but don't want to feel like shit either. Basically, how many days since leaving the north country before summiting? Thanks for the help.

Actually, my girlfriend and I are doing it Monday, July 26. We wouldn't mind another hooking up with someone else. We wanted to start between midnight and 1 a.m. She's been up Shasta three times, twice via north side routes, and up Whitney twice, once via mountaineer's route, so she can climb. I did the south side route in February, and the only reason I am willing to do it again is because my girlfriend wants to climb Hood. We are both in Portland. Email me at jbetoo@hotmail.com if you want to hook up in town or at Timberline.

I think Hemingway said this, and it goes something like this, excuse the butchering: Make sure you do everything you said you were going to do while getting drunk the night before. That will teach you to keep your mouth shut the next time. -Still learning that one.

Looking to climb something on Hood, Adams, anywhere for that matter, this Sunday-Monday. Have mutltiple summits on Adams, Rainier, Hood, Whitney, Shasta, Aconcagua, blah, blah, blah. Up for some new routes. Email me at jbetoo@hotmail.com if you got any ideas.

I just read on the AP wire that one of the injured climbers has died. It appears the guy they plucked off the ridge via helicopter was alive and injured, while the other climber, whom Northwest News Channel orginally thought was only slightly injured and was being helped down the mountain, was dead when rescuers arrived.

Steve, I just moved to Portland last fall and would love to hook up some people to climb consistently. Multiple routes on Hood and in the Olympics sounds great. I've been up Rainier, Aconcagua, Shasta, Whitney, Hood, Adams, etc., some alpine routes in the Sierra, and have also taken a couple glacier travel/course crevasse rescue courses. Email me at jbetoo@hotmail.com.

If you don't want to do multi-pitch routes, 90-foot wall is a nice option for top roping, and there are plenty of options. Park along the highway by Emerald Bay. If you pull into the trailhead lot, you will have to pay. It's about a 15 minute walk to base of rock. Ideal top roping. Camping at Nevada Beach could be all right this time of year, which would put you close to Spooner Crag on the way to Carson City. Again, nice top roping routes, mostly 5.10 stuff and higher. That crag is empty most times. If you head south toward Bishop, check out Buckeye hot springs in Bridgeport. Better than travertine.

Hey, thanks Ivan for the enlightenment on needing to know how to self arrest for the Leuthold. Geez, I just thought there was a safety net on the bottom or something.

Anybody up for the Leuthold Couloir either this Sunday or Monday? The guy I was suppose to go with has bailed on me the last two weekends, and I really want to do this route soon. Email me at Jbetoo@hotmail.com,

I am also looking for a partner. Just moved to the NW from Tahoe. Been climbing for about three years; well experienced on the usual -- Rainier, Shasta, Whitney, Palisades, Hood, Aconcagua. I am in Portland. Looking to line up some things for this summer. Email: Jbetoo@hotmail.com