bigbowsky

This summer my friend Colin and I free climbed the Thin Red Line. It is one of the best in the NW and we put together a little video showing a bit of the climbing. It has 3 pitches of around 12a climbing that are all very different styles. check out the Vid! THIN RED LINE VIDEO

Trip: Washington Pass - Thin Red Line Date: 7/15/2013 Trip Report: This summer my friend Colin and I free climbed the Thin Red Line. It is one of the best in the NW and we put together a little video showing a bit of the climbing. It has 3 pitches of around 12a climbing that are all very different styles. check out the Vid! The Thin Red Line - Video Gear Notes: Standard Rack with 1 No. 3 camalot. Approach Notes: 40 minutes

Want to buy a discontinued 3 person Black Diamond Lighthouse Tent. Myself and 2 others are off to Pakistan in a month and I am desperately looking for this tent. I would pay $, trade for a brand new one of different style, or both depending. I have lots of great things that I could trade for if you are in need of something in particular? Thanks so much! Jesse Huey

A link to a video about the climb.... http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/video/bd-grassroots-athlete-jesse-huey-reports-on-his-ascent-of-denalis-islovak-directi-route

Petzl Quarks with double hammers, leashes and grip rests. Lightly used, less than 10 times. A great waterfall ice climbing tool. These retail with leashes for $620 with tax at REI. Email me at jessehuey@hotmail.com

In an earlier post I said that the route would hopefully get "more traffic." "More traffic" wasn't meant as a way to keep the route clean - it is pretty clean already. Supercrack is one of the steepest pure crack climbs in Washington (That I have found) and shouldn't be missed if you walk up to midnight rock. Hopefully more people will consider climbing it now if they take the time and energy to get up there in the first place.

Ryan, You were such an inspiring person to be around. Your energy, charisma, genuiness, and endless talent still belongs here with us and I am incredible sad. I thought of you much like a big brother, someone I looked up to and aspired to be like, climbing aside. I didn't believe it when I heard the news of your death and am still having a hard time coming to grips with it. Jen, my heart goes out to you, and Ryan, I will miss you tremendously. Jesse Huey

If supercrack gets climbed more often now because of a two bolt anchor then those bolts are doing a service to the crag and anyone who takes the time to go up there. If you disagree with the anchor, approach via the south ramp, go ground up, send the pitch, use the bomber hb offset and grey tcu anchor, belay your second up and chop the bolts. If that dosen't make you feel better, then climb r.o.t.c and plumb line and chop the anchors on those too.

The rack in camalots: 1 .5 2 .75 2 1 1 2 2 3 1 old 3.5 2 4 The number 5 was for the onsight go but it dosent fit. Fingeys to 2 no. 4s are the rack! The size thing will FOR SURE MATTER! I was up there with a (VERY STRONG) climber and he ran out of jams and then was forced to lie it back (desperado for sure) at the end. The pics don't show the crux... it is the last 10 feet of climbing the crack goes into an overhanging flake that just dosen't have anything to hold onto... My friend off the top of his head figured maybe 12c for him or harder???

The grade is kinda a hard one to put a number and letter on. It climbs like a splitter in Indian Creek and favors those who can get fist jams and arm bars the last 10 feet or so. I was able to get fists almost through the entire crux but they were incredibly strenous. I would bet for a smaller person it would be 5.13. For my body it felt probably about 5.12a/b? About the details, I tried it once ground up last year with a friend and it kicked my ass. When I got to the top the anchor was complete bull $%#@. I found an r.p. crack that was super parrellel and a place for my last number 5 camalot. Considering that my partner was almost surely going to have to take I loaded the crack with small gear, jumped in a hole below and gave him a body belay to the anchor. Needless to say it was terrifying! Soooo I went back last week with two friends and drilled a two bolt anchor at the top We rapped in and I looked at it on TR for a second and then sent the pitch first go. With the anchor there now hopefully it will get more traffic. You can get to the climb by traversing in at the base of rotc past the dagoba system up to the bolt anchor. A must hit if you are heading up to midnight rock. Also you go by the base of plumbline (which needs a wire bursh desperately) on the way to the SC anchor.

Added a few Pics of the route. See above

Just curious if anyone knows anything about the first ascent of Supercrack on Midnight Rock in Leavenworth? Does anyone know of any legit repeats, or how Timson protected it without large cams? I am betting he sent it on large hex's but would love to hear the story from someone who knows? Any credible info send me a P.M. would love to chat about it....

Yet again another buyer fell through.... anyone else want a pair of reactors... I am leaving for patagonia on xmas!

I still haven't sold these but am getting lots of response from out of state people. I can send an email with photos but haven't been able to figure it out here.

I am selling a pair of Black Diamond Reactor Ice Tools. They are in very good condition with new picks. I have climbed on these tools 10 days total so they are barley used. I am asking 200 dollars for the pair. Brand new these tools sell for 189 a piece. They are the perfect tool for vertical ice, mixed ice and rock, and straight dry tooling. Please call jesse at 4252680126

Here is what I know, In the last 3 weeks.... We climbed flow reversal in very difficult conditions probably 3 weeks ago... probably WI6 or more like m7 with rock gear the entire way (we only had 2 screws) on delaminated ice. It was a go however because the rock gear was solid and a crucial fixed pin at the crux was there where I would have backed off otherwise. The next day probably 3 weeks ago we climbed the Cosley Houston Route on Baker. Truely a magnificent climb. I would rate it in the very brittle conditions we found it (it was 12° F the entire day) WI5 at the pillar with much easier terrain. Two weeks ago we climbed a fun line on the way out to the Flow Reversal area in Alpental. It was the obvious pillar coming off the summer trail on the way in (hiking in it would be on the right side of the valley.) It was very fun 2-3 pitch WI4 with a really fun "chockstone" that you have to go behind. We were excited to potentially try a new line to the left of Flow reversal but with the new snow you couldn't see it anymore. Other than that I made it to Canmore over the weekend so cant say about much else in WA. My hunch is that Lilloet is completely in except for maybe some of the difficult climbs like the Loose Lady or any hanging pillars. Someone post on Lilloet soon! Ps. how is the Rap wall forming up? Anything?

Elliot, Some guys leading that OW Desire near the layaway plan grabbed your cam, thinking it was mine, then when everyone left they gave it back to me thinking it was mine. I asked everyone I came accross the rest of that trip, but to no avail. I am glad it found you my friend. I will send it asap to you, so sorry that happened. I rarely am on this site, shoot me over an email at jessehuey@hotmail.com and I will get it out the next day. Jesse

Im looking to do it in a day this fall, Anyone down?

Fun indeed!