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JAFO

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Posts posted by JAFO

  1. I agree with archenemy. If they are just lazy and out of shape let them go back down or safely wait it out. (or better yet I wouldn't have chosen to climb with them) But bagging and tagging someone who is vounterable is just selfish. It's one thing when the risk is so high and rescue is almost impossible say high on f'n k2 or something. But if you can help it and you leave them and they are sick then you are an a-hole. Or you didn't pick partners well and therefore deserve what comes your way. Even if it means you have to go back.

    "but hey it's just my opinion"

  2. I agree. PMS has a down to earth "what you really need" atittude thumbs_up.gif

    My only complaint is the beef against camalots cry.gif

    Personally I like them and know when I need what.

    My friend bought the cams they (PMS) suggested and while they were light the shit was sticky as hell. I've never had that problem with my camalots. snaf.gif

  3. Thanks Chris,

     

    There has been some spray on this book here and it's probably the same a-holes that would have said climbing rubber and cams were cheating. (of course they use them now) My guess is alot of them have never even been down to the valley. I bought your book after getting handed a hand drawn topo half way up the leaning tower. Of course we had a book but it wasn't anything like yours. (so much was out of date) And if the book takes the adventure out how come everyone and their brother wanted to borrow my book when I brought it back to seattle?

    Great book, awsome info, guide and coffee table book in one.

  4. You can't go wrong with edelweiss however I thought they were kinda stiff on the handling. It's up to you what you like.

    Smooth handle or great abrasion resistance. Personally I buy the rope I want even if it turns out to be a little more. To me my confidence is better when I know I am on a good line.

  5. Everyone who is interested in this topic should watch the movie "the fog of war" It interviews Robert Macnamera on how it all went down. We burned 60 major cities in japan. It is amazing that we have any relationship at all with japan.

  6. Wander by MEC (that's Mountain Equipment Co-op, on Broadway 3 blocks east of Cambie), don't forget to leave while you still have a dime in your pocket, pick up one of the Squamish guides (Squamish Select is the least overwhelming). That should get you started.

     

    MEC is the sh!t! Just watch the driving it's kinda crazy up there. If you see everyone driving in the right lane (on broadway) don't switch unless you have to. No one let's you turn accross traffic so you will be sitting there awhile. Squamish definatley Squamish! Someone correct me if I am wrong but I am pretty sure the opening sequence of K2 was shot there on the upper grand wall.

  7. Face it guys you all love REI and will continue to go there. Also you will continue to bitch about it. Look. I love REI too and I will always bitch about it. You see it's like Disneyland,

    (the motherstore) you get pretty little paintings by your parking spot. The waterfall and not to mention painted cement to look like wood! Plus you can paruse the "mountainbike test track" and enjoy the perils of reading your favorite zine on top of the huge glass compass. All this while sipping a $3.50 "luna C". Then when that gets borring you can go out on to the balcony and watch people feel like they have done something "extreme".

     

    *slap!* Now when I am done with my outdoor relaxation time I will walk accross the street to Featherd Friends to buy the real stuff. Like leaper cams and keyhole hangers, rivet hangers and get advice from some real climbers who can tell me about bringing wing nuts down to the valley (worked awsome!) and other tidbits of usefullness not handed out at REI. But I will continue to go there anyway because I like gear and cool buildings.

  8. Just imagine what would happen if we took the 100's of billions of dollars we have spent on this shit and actually worried about our "homeland".I am not fond of the patriot act but at least I think we could give emergency people the $ and training they need. You know instead of giving $ to suspected terrorits that may have been mistreated. If we are such good guys. why did the white house shy away from Rwanda? Face it were pumping money to get money. I've been here in Iraq and think they are just waiting for us to leave. Of course it's all opinion.

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