markwebster
-
Posts
603 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by markwebster
-
-
Only been there twice, and got lost both times. Supposedly you can do it in 11...but it took us 14. I was driving 5 over the legal limit. If you are willing to speed, and don't make any wrong turns, maybe 12? We approached via Almo, and Rock City. Perhaps the Oakley approach is faster...
Miss that place already. I have September off, may go back.
-
Trip: Mark goes to the city with 3 girls and 2 dogs - many
Date: 6/18/2011
Trip Report:
I took my wife, two friends, and their two dogs on a tour of ultra fun City of Rocks moderates a couple weeks ago. We had 10 days available.
I love the city because it isn't as crowded as the valley, the bolts are closer, the drive is shorter, camping is cheaper, and it's cooler. The only thing it doesn't have is long clean splitters, but with all the other positives, who cares?
At Parking Lot rock, there is a great selection of crack and bolt climbs and a 3 minute approach. This is Merica topping out on a dead easy 5.6 open book.
Merica riding the horse. This woman is a lot of fun!
Merica again, Parking Lot rock, love that approach.
Jim drove over and met us for a few days. I've known Jim since 1977 when we wrote the Spire Rock guidebook together. He is 70 something and still pulling down hard. The man is amazing. When Donini came to Leavenworth a month ago, he stayed at Jim's house. This is Jim following Cruel Shoes, and 2.5 pitch bolted line up Stripe Rock. The approach is 40 minutes of level hiking. The bolts are very close, love this route!
Jim on top of Cruel Shoes. We had to chase a herd of cows away from the base of this route. You see a line of bolts heading up a vertical wall, and it looks harder than 5.7, but the wacos make it all work.
At the upper breadloaves there are some nice 5.6 to 5.9 crack climbing. They are very nice routes. Clean granite cracks, with wacos on the sides so it never feels too desperate. This is Julia following a 9 or a 10a overhanging open book. The guide book could be better with trail information. There are three new bolt lines left of this climb, 5.9, 8 and 7. Really great sport routes.
right of Bloody Fingers are some moderates. This is Julia on a 5.7. We did Bloody Fingers too, but I didn't get to take any pictures. Bloody is a yosemite style splitter in a shallow corner with very committing finger jams on tiny gear at the crux.
Julia and me:
Merica leading Mystery Bolter down in the Flaming Rock area. This route is bolted more conservatively...helps to have your friction head on, great route though. Very committing at the crux. Safe, if a tad run-out, jtree style.
The view from campsite 51, our home for 10 days. They call it the city because there is literally a city full of rocks. I'd call it bigger than jtree, especially if you include Castle Crags, which is 15 minutes away:
Jim following a very runout 5.8 sport climb at Parking Lot rock. The first 3 bolts are 30 feet apart, so you need to be warmed up for this one. The rest is quite safe, and that's where it gets hard. Highly recommended.
Merica has an awesome smile:
Julia and Merica:
Merica, Dakota and Lyle, worlds friendliest pitbull. Meria is taking a picture of the robins nest:
We hiked into Theater of Shadows: 3.5 pitches, 5.7. Very close bolts, 40 minute approach. This is a super cool sport climb with fantastic views. As it says in the guidebook, your grandmother could lead this one. This is my wife Sue and Jim at the rap.
Jim and Sue, Theater of Shadows, with the city spread out behind them. Over 70 years of climbing between the two of them.
At the gas station in Oakley, I saw this sign on the door. The owner came out and said: *Why some a them thar women come in with those thangs hangin' out so far I feel like I oughta' take em out to the barn and hook em up to the milkin' machine.* Only in Idaho:
In closing, I took the family up to 38 the next weekend. This is my son, Sue, my daughter and me...a climbing family:
Both kids are ER nurses. Weird how an old ex hippie like me could have such great kids. Musta' been the wife's doing.
Gear Notes:
your standard cragging rack: stoppers, cams, alpine draws. You need up to 18 draws for Theater of Shadows if you want to clip every bolt.
Approach Notes:
from 5 to 40 minutes
-
agreed. One of my friends who did the monkey swing is now into sky diving. A lot more air time, and better training for that environment.
-
My friend Joel is one of the first ones to set up that rope swing. When he was running it several of my friends did it, and it looked quite fun, and seemed relatively safe: if all the precautions were taken such as padding for the rope, back up ropes, everyone in safe positions, etc.
Rope swings have a long tradition at Smith, this is just the latest one. It does appear this one was badly managed, though since we weren't there, I don't want to speculate. Joel was out of town, but knows one of the victims and has been talking to him about what really happened, on Facebook.
In general, I've always thought that rope swings are a cheap thrill, better suited to beginner climbers who can't get their thrills on real climbs. Beginners, doing uncontrolled swings on high cliffs where they aren't experienced seems like a recipe for disaster, and here we have the proof.
Still, Smith is a place where beginners go, who am I to say what is right and wrong? I had a chance to ride the swing with Joel in charge, but I chose to go climbing instead.
Let's hope the woman recovers ok, it was a bad accident.
-
It's funny to hear a bunch of desk jockey weekend climbers talk about their struggles to maintain climbing weight. That certainly describes me. I've had good luck staying in reasonable shape by avoiding white flower and sugar. But when that doesn't work, and I can't get enough exercise due to work, and or family, and the pounds start to pile on, I revert to my "prison camp diet", which I sort of invented after reading about the Bataan Death march in WW2. Here it is:
Prison Camp Diet
I've managed to succeed on my 'prison camp diet', dropping from 174 down to 159 over the course of 3 weeks.
I eat 2.5 cups of food at dinner, and snack on a cup of something healthy during the day....maybe nuts, or carrots.
Deep and painful hunger at work is the main feature of this diet, and success seems to mean making hunger my friend, instead of something that needs to be fixed. It's kind of like having a new toy, in a way. I feel the hunger and think, cool, that's my friend, reminding me that I am loosing weight.
I'm sure I could gain it all back in a few days if I let myself start eating each time I feel a hunger pain...I'll try not to let that happen.
Through all this dieting I've continued to work out, and climb whenever I have time. Surprisingly, I am climbing better than ever, despite being hungry. It helps that I weigh 15 pounds less. Also, I've been working on my pull up strength every day. So my arms are stronger, and they have less to lift, it's a lovely combination.
I don't recommend this diet unless you are completely disgusted with how you look. The pain of hunger is not something to take lightly. But, contrary to public opinion, you won't keel over, or faint just because you are very hungry. You get used to it after a while, and becomes the new normal.
I do allow myself several cups of coffee, sweetened with that fake creamer from Safeway. If you put enough creamer in your coffee, it's almost like a sandwich :-)
--------
I've had a few people ask me what I eat, if I only eat 3 cups of food a day. When you only get that much, you can trust your body to pick the right things...and Oreo cookies, will not be your first choice.
The original poster was spot on. But if you need to lose weight, and or have a tool to shake it off fast, see above. And weigh every day, so you can catch the trend before it gets bad.
-
Nice TR!!!
Raising climbers is a tricky business. It's like that famous old tale about the parents who force their kid to take piano lessons. When they grow up, they never touch the piano again.
That was our fear...so we took them everywhere we climbed, but never forced them to tie in. It had to be their choice, and mostly they chose chasing lizards.
Fast forward 25 years: both kids climb, but it's not their passion. They have many interests, and climbing is just one of many.
With all the potential problems we could have had raising teenagers, I'm happy they are normal and have good jobs. I can find climbing partners...
-
Christine,
If Mike goes to help watch the little man, I'd go with you anytime, anywhere. Mike could belay me, if Thomas needs you. I'm going to 38 with family on Saturday, but the other two days are open.
You know my number...
And for any parents out there: Christine is an awesome climber, has a ton of integrity, is very safe, and other than my wife, is probably the best partner I've had in 33 years of climbing...did I mention she is funny as well?
See my trip reports,
-mark
-
Anyone have any details on this accident yet?
-
Last year there was a baby, he/she was super cute, and quite the slab climber, sliding down 5.9 slabs in 4 wheel lock. Short of shooting them, could one perhaps feed them? Leave an offering of something that wasn't too heavy to hump up there?
They go batshit over salt in urine. I wonder if a salt block placed away from the climbing area would be a good idea.
Baring that, perhaps grizly bear pepper spray might work?
Shooting them is bound to end very badly. Injured, angry mountain goats attacking poorly armed climber/hunters, environmentalists up in arms...
-
Yupp, I got another one of him flipping me off this trip. I'm not sure why he doesn't like pictures on the net. Some people value their privacy. Either way, he's a solid partner, awesome crack climber and funny as all get out.
-
Trip: Leavenworth and Index cragging spring 2011 - various
Date: 6/7/2011
Trip Report:
I saw Jon's request for more trip reports for June. I've not been anywhere exotic, but here are some images from the last two weekends in Leavenworth and Index that might brighten your cubicle.
Phil and my daughter following Givlers crack, 5.7, Icicle canyon. This beautiful splitter is a full 70 meters long, and totally worth the one hour approach. My daughter hadn't climbed in 2 years due to college, and starting a new career as a nurse, but now she is back to being a working joe, and climbing awesome off the couch.
My wife Sue topping out on Givlers. She has been in love with that crack since 1980. Gotta' love a woman who loves a good crack...
On the way down from Givlers, we got lost, as usual, and stumbled on the Rare Earth crag where we found a beautifully bolted 10a sport climb, with a lovely 5.8 layback flake trad route next door. This is me on the flake.
We found a bunch of other cool stuff that weekend, most notably at Hobo Gulch. Victor and friends have been developing some lovely sport and mixed routes there, within walking distance of the Leavenworth gas station. Really a cool area, with a bunch of moderates in the 5.7 and up range.
Last weekend we went to Index where I was lucky to follow my buddy James N. up Princely Ambitions 5.8+. I had carried my big Canon 50d, so I was able to shoot a cool series of my friend Ken leading up behind me.
I love that traverse he is about to start. You have to place gear in the expanding, ringing flakes, and then step out onto dime sized ledges, with no hands at all for a couple steps until you can reach for the jug. Really a cool climb, and well named!
This is Ken leading the infamous rail on Princely Ambitions. That rail is like a two by four bolted to a vertical wall. You have to hand traverse out across it for about 9 feet before you can heel hook to get some strain off your hands. You need to place gear during the traverse so your follower won't fall off and dangle on the overhanging wall. Once they dangle, they are unlikely to get back on without a prusik.
These images are of Ken leading the second pitch of Princely Ambitions, Index. It's a much more straight forward pitch, without the scary traverses of the first pitch. The gear is one quarter inch up through a number 5 if you have it, though you can use a small seam nearby, if you don't have 5 inch cams.
Julia and James N. at the top of the first pitch of Princely. The views are awesome up there. I've got more pictures of James, but he made me promise not to post them...
Gear Notes:
my standard el cap rack, which I carry everywhere.
Approach Notes:
chacos
-
[begin old school rant]
I hate this trend toward skinny ropes. I started on 11's, led my hardest climbs ever on 11's and hexes. I always buy the cheapest, thickest rope I can find.
My buddy has a 9.2 or something. I've led on it, and it feels like dental floss to me. I don't alpine climb anymore, but if I did, I might think about buying some dental floss.
I used to swear by Edelweiss, but my last one got stiff. I currently use that green and white stripped one rei sells. Forget the brand, but it furred up nicely before getting any snags and now it's bulletproof.
I love thick ropes!
[/end old school rant]
-
Heck yeah! I did chopper in 1978. Glad to see it is still up. It was scary with hexes.
-
yeah, kudos to the administrators of cc.com!
That's got to be a thankless job, and I imagine you guys run it on a shoestring.
It's great having this resource online in our little corner of the climbing community.
I've donated, and I've linked to you.
-
or just hang out at a gym and meet the regulars. I started out doing volunteer belaying at birthday parties in exchange for membership. Great way to get to know the regulars and meet partners. I've also begged for partners on this board and met some good ones, but the gym is more reliable as you meet them in person. Internet dating can be somewhat iffy, good resume or not.
Substantial trip reports are a good indicator of a climber with some integrity. But I see your problem: chicken and the egg.
-
Ask SMS, they might have one used. My experience was that the used ones were a couple decades old; rebuilt and tuned up, with a guarantee...but still old.
Perhaps if you have the resources to step up to the plate and buy a new one, you keep it?
Never know though...
-
Oh, I forgot to mention, if you are into machinery, a well built industrial sewing machine is a marvelous machine. It's not at all like most of the crap that is sold these days. Think of the finish on a $4000 bicycle. They are that kind of cool.
My Juki is relatively low end, and aimed more at people who sew garments, and long straight fast stitches on things like boat awnings. I had to buy a 1/4 size pulley ($9) to get it slowed down to a reasonable speed. Just like a car, it has an oil pan, and an oil pump, which keeps oil flowing as it runs.
It's really fun to turn off the computer and head out to the garage for some creative, hands on sewing projects. My last project was goretex bibs. For around $40 I sewed some reinforced bibs that typically cost $300. Patterns can be found at seattlefabrics.com. I'm going to do a goretex parka next.
-
Stop in and talk to these guys in Renton:
http://www.sewingmachineservice.com/
They have a wide selection of new and used sewing machines, from household to industrial. Even the used ones come with a guarantee. They service the entire Puget Sound area and have an excellent reputation.
The sewing question comes up a lot on this board. Here is the last big thread I remember:
One regret I have is that my machine doesn't do zig zag stitch, and I would happily sacrifice some of my speed for the ability to sew super thick material (thicker than one quarter inch). But that would have meant an extra $700 in price, and the machine would have been used.
That's right, a good used industrial machine can cost more than a new light industrial machine.
If you search supertopo you can find some excellent threads from climbers who turned their sewing hobbies into nationwide companies.
-
Sweet Mr. K! I'm assuming that approach would violate my 5 minute rule? Looks like beautiful rock and exposure.
-
I used to use alternative knots but have since found that, If one double threads the rope through the harness tie in point (creating an additional complete loop of the tie in point) that section tightens up first in falls leaving a standard figure eight with the Yosemite/Archie/Olevsky finish easier to untie while preserving its other benefits.
Plus I forgot how to tie the other knots during a stint as a boulderer.
wow, what a cool idea! Simpler is always better. I'm going to try that double thread through the harness trick. I see no reason why it should cause any problems to the integrity of the original figure eight. I guess it might tend to "pinch" the waist loop and leg loops together more than normal, but they are that way a lot of the time anyway.
I can see how that loop might absorb some of the knot tightness...worth a try anyway.
I don't like the sound of using a marlin spike. Those things looks sharp, and I don't want to be poking around in my hard knot with an icepick.
Part of the problem is my gym lead rope is getting a bit worn, maybe even flat-ish at the ends. So it may be more susceptible to over tightening on the short gym lead falls. I've taken falls outside, on my real ropes, and the knot never seems to get this tight.
-
I've been ready to cut the darn knot a few times lately, takes 15 minutes to untie it. If the fid is just the bottom curve of a binier, I don't see how it could be dangerous. I've not tried this yet, just thinking about a solution to wasting time with a stuck knot.
I am getting stronger, but this just means I get on harder climbs, and fall further, which makes the knot even tighter. Not a problem outside, but it's been raining for months, and there is no outside.
-
Here is the problem: You are at the gym training and you take a couple whippers off a hard move. When you lower off your hands are so tired you can't untie the knot, which is rock hard. Sound familiar?
Yosemite finish might help a little, but same problem.
My solution: Sailors had the a similar problem in the 18th century, and they used something called a fid:
I'm thinking this could be made from the curved end of a binier, that was cut off and filed to a taper on one end. The other end of the curve could be smashed flat until it could be drilled out to accept another binier through the hole for twisting leverage. The whole thing in the shape of a "c" about the size of an apricot.
You'd tie your figure eight, and insert this curved fid into the knot, possibly need a safety cord to hold it on, like a belay plate wire. When you take that whipper, you lower off and pull out the fid, which would come out because it is tapered, hard, and you have leverage, none of which is true on a jammed knot with tired hands.
This could also be made from a branch, in a y shape, or some kind of plastic rod, which would be easier to work and test.
Thoughts?
-
nice looking rocket box! My wife wouldn't let me build my own box, said it would look to trashy, she's seen my carpentry skills. But I love my body bag. We've been filling it full of skis and poles lately. A couple bungies to tie it to the board and its ready to roll. I can't remember if I mentioned that we used the bodybag as a spare refrigerator under a boulder in jtree at xmas. The fabric is dog proof.
-
one sign of maturity is you can separate thinking from doing. Also a good way to stay married.
[TR] Mark goes to the city with 3 girls and 2 dogs - many 6/18/2011
in Idaho
Posted
There is bouldering everywhere there is climbing. But I only saw a few people carrying bouldering pads. I'm generalizing here, but most of the rocks are at least half a pitch high, and there aren't many large boulders on the ground that would have a top out. Then again, I wasn't looking since I don't boulder. I have too many friends with broken ankles from that sport.
Many of the climbs do have flat dirt at the bottom, if that helps.