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upzmtn

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Posts posted by upzmtn

    Rumors of ice?? conditions update??

    in Ice Climbing Forum

    Posted

    Went up to Der Leavenworth yesterday. No ice to speak of in Mountaineers Creek - assuming we found was I think were the proper walls. Surprisingly dry all around.

     

    The two routes that formed last year on Dog Dome however are shaping up well. The Litter Box is on the left and climbs a cleft that is a summer rock route. It went yesterday at 3+ with a thin top out. Used a #1 and .75 Camalot and left a pin up high (and one in the snow down below) to protect the exit to the anchors. The Cat's Meow - a mixed affair on the right - felt like M5-6 WI4 (?) last year but looks a bit thinner - though climbable - with, of course, a scary top out.

     

    My partner and I broke a hard-fought trail (1.5 hours to the climb!!) in there so someone ought to take advantage of it before it's buried again. Snowshoes are mandatory, as is a mystery cable crossing...bring your largest HMS-style 'biner and make it one you don't mind retiring as the cable can rough them up if you go fast. A 1" (?)pulley would be the bomb.

    Clipping into the belay?

    in Newbies

    Posted

    ... By anchoring myself with the belay rope,(as hemp22 suggests above) and then belaying off the tie-in point on my harness, I keep the maximum amount of shock-absorbing rope in service to protect my belay anchor.

     

    ...but if you read up on self-rescue methodologies (escaping a belay) and recently adopted standards of the AMGA, this is the least desireable method of belaying a second. Worth looking into.

     

    In summary though, there are at least "a few" common situations that all dictate a best method of belaying. Experience and lots of attention to the seemingly constant evolution of "the best" way to do things is always good.

    BD Reactors: how are they do climb with?

    in Ice Climbing Forum

    Posted

    I've used them almost exclusively this year and am coming from the Cobras and a little experience with the Takoons. I initially thought - perfect - they're supposed to do ice and mixed well and in the effort, they don't do either very well. After more use though, I am coming to like them on everything but pure and steep ice (no experience with them on grade threee or under)They don't have enough bend up top for a natural swing and they don't clear buldges all that well. That same mellow curve up top makess them not all that stable on delicate mixed terrain either. However, all that said, I am beginning to leave my Cobras behind if there is a hint of mixed climbing and, as I become more proficient at the many cool options leashless climbing offers, I'm getting sold. I even placed a few pins and, aside from the serious beating that the hamnmer took (they are replaceable) they did surprisingly well.

     

    Not sure what you mean by "mountain steeps" but I'd think they would be a lousy alpine tool for obvious reasons.

    Seattle to Smith this weekend Fri-Sun??

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    Looking for a last minute partner for Smith. Partner bailed. Climb anything - preferably 10-11 sport and some trad things were on the list as well. I'm a photographer so I'll shoot a bit as well if the opp arises but mostly looking to end the season with one last hoorah and have some good times with no expectations. Anyone with a positive attitude and good juju welcome. pls be able to follow ez/mid 10s or at least belay them happily until we get to your climbs smile.gif Can give a mean tour of the moderates if your new-ish.

    Ice-Sporto Litter

    in Spray

    Posted

    Seems to me the topic is "how long to leave the draws in place. Even if it did seem appropriate to leave them there all season long, leaving them through the summer seems a bit ridiculous. Maybe he left town unexpectedly or something? I'm not sure of the location but if it is cleanable on a rap they should be gone out of a basic respect for a)anyone that wanted to try and climb it totally clean or b)the other 5 million people who are up there. what we seem to be forgetting to consier is the potential visual impact on non-climbers. We can piss all we want internally but it's the many thousands of hikers and others who will out-vote and out-regulate us as we blindly in-fit into oblivion.

    Crossing Austera's E Ridge

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    I'm hoping to find some general beta about traversing from the Klawatti Glacier, over Austera's E. Ridge, to the N. Klawatti. I've heard of a col but can't locate a 7.5 minute map to show enough detail to find it. Any landmarks to aim for in the hunt for a class 4 or under crossing on the ridge? Any beta appreciated. Thx. Jim

    Alpenthal on Friday

    in the *freshiezone*

    Posted

    I think everyone here needs to ride the lifts less. cry.gif We skied tons of virgin pow yesterday and never saw a soul. moon.gif Who goes looking for good snow in-bounds, a week after the last dump around here anyway? That stuff got buffed off the day after it fell by a whole herd of gumbies on skis AND boards. Easy folks... It's just a game. Play nice.

    fruit.giffruit.giffruit.gif

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