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upzmtn

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Posts posted by upzmtn

  1. Goin' pro? Wanna hit the big time? This pack will get you there. It will make all of your shots sharp, your snow white and skies deep blue. With this pack, all of your athletes will stomp their landings, send their proj's, and be bathed in beautiful light all day long. #HELLYEAHBREAUX

     

    This is the pack you've been waiting for: http://bit.ly/1yk99D0

     

    Sells new for $340, selling for $225.

     

    It's brand new, "Medium/Large" in size (they don't make sizes) and a "cloud white" color that actually is slightly gray. It doesn't come with an ICU, but, unlike their packs, those are usually in stock on their site.

     

    This pack is also compatible with the FStop Sun Tether System, that allows you to actually attach the sun to your pack at the angle you choose, virtually guaranteeing you splitter weather and just the right light, anytime. (Sold separately).

     

    You can email me directly at jimATvertizonphotoDOTcom.

     

    MY FIRST PREFERENCE IS TO SELL THIS WITHOUT SHIPPING IT, SO I WILL GIVE PREFERENCE TO PEOPLE IN THE SEATTLE AND LEAVENWORTH AREAS. If I ship it, I'll add that to the price.

     

    Thanks for stopping by.

  2. Crampons will not stop you if you slide. They will break your ankles however and, if you're new with crampons, you should really have an axe along in case you stumble. Warm spring snow is nothing but a nightmare with crampons anyway, as snow balling-up underfoot can make them downright dangerous, or at best, a total pain in the ass. You can find REALLY light aluminum axes that are basically made for self-arrest only ( http://www.camp-usa.com/products/ice-axes/corsa.asp ) and weigh just over 7 oz.

     

    For relatively easy access to good sliding terrain, I'd head up to Pan Point above Paradise. Great run-out, good pitch, and you can go as high as you like. This face does slide occasionally, but that's all I'll say about that. The same high-traffic that makes it generally packed enough to slide on, also makes it "generally" safe avy-wise. I'll reiterate though - it can slide. Finding something steep enough to slide on in a ski resort from the base would be, I think, problematic. And bumpy.

     

    I used to guide kids in the Rockies and rather than suit up a 12 yo. with pointy things, we'd practice self-arrest by kicking feet and dragging elbows with your arse high in the air, which is actually really effective in soft snow. FOTH should have that in there as well.

     

    Good luck!

  3. The discussion in this thread, and the list of options presented, are all viable in different circumstances. Perhaps start with a rope that you find most comfortable using for what you first plan on tackling, and you can add additional rope options to your collection as you gain experience and have new goals.

     

    That pretty much says it all. Good discussion of the the options though.

     

  4. Hubba Hubba is BRAND NEW - never even been unloaded from stuffsack. $200. (MSR is sold out for the year already)

     

    Elbow Room 3 - spacious car camping tent or backpacking tent (7lbs +). Massive vestibules and totally bomber. Gently Used. $150. http://www.amazon.com/MSR-Elbow-Room-Three-Person-Tent/dp/B00187CZ3Y

     

    Dragontail Single Wall 2-person/4season tent. 4+ pounds. Tags still on it - never used. $225.

     

     

    http://www.amazon.com/MSR-12442-Dragontail-Two-Person-Tent/dp/B0018797L2

     

    And for the record, these are not stolen! :-)

     

    LOCAL ONLY PLEASE - PDX OK

  5. Hey - A disclaimer that I work for MSR, but even though this wasn't the far superior Reactor (!!!), these stoves do burn hot and the tilt in your set-up, I'm pretty sure, was the culprit. The damage is consistent with running a dry pot. Though you had snow in it, if you don't start with water and then add snow *slowly* (ensuring that water is not fully absorbed into the snow) you're essentially running a dry pot and that heat is not being absorbed by the pot's contents efficiently enough to prevent damage to the pot. Because of the concentration of heat with such stoves, there's little forgiveness in such situations. Bummer if that's the case, but at least now you can upgrade :-)

  6. I think mono's make/let you climb better. No leveraging out/off secondary points on dime edges or ice features. After climbing on monos for over-well, a long time-it's hard to argue against the benefit of pulling a fluid drop knee or hip rotation of a svelte mono. And on crappy ice, stepping into your pick holes is a priceless bene that has saved many a climb from collapsing. In wet, crappy snow I kick harder to engage secondary points and the I-beam construction of most monos today seems just fine for my 150 lbs.

     

    On leashes, I've dropped (knocked out) a tool with old-school lockers mid-crux pitch on Louise Falls while placing a screw and had androids mysteriously come unclipped at the top of climbs while dangling them. Most notorious was at the top of the Coleman headwall-there's still a nice cobra in some crack up there. You can always drop tools if not careful.

     

    Switching up hands when there is only one good placement and you're pumped silly - priceless. I don't agree that you need to be in better shape either. You just need to change your style to accommodate the advantages provided by climbing unleashed. It still freaks me out at times, but I'm always blown away at the top of a climb how often I switched-up tools, de-pumped with ease, and paced pro way faster. I'd probably wimp out and bring my old cobras on big or remote climbs, but I probably won't be saying that for much longer.

  7. BD Cobras (w/ android leashes) two seasons on one of them, only a few routes on the other. $220/ea.

     

    2009 BD Fusions. Lightly used demo tools. $190/ea.

     

    MSR Elbow Room 3P tent. Great, roomy (and bomber)car camper. Lightly used (3-5 times?). $175.

     

    PM for pics.

     

    upzmtn(at)gmail.com

     

     

     

     

    -Jim

  8. ...and in geographic proximity :-) Neither buyer seems to be responding so I'll post it once more and then let's talk about shipping, Hank. Where to? I'd get you some pictures too.

  9. Even better idea...keep going out anywhere in the hills outside of Conway until you know what works for you. Try to get to Tuckerman's and back in a day. Essentially no avy danger if you stay out of the basin and you'll learn way more there than from someone's list here. Be like everyone else and bring way too much the first time and dial it in from there. You'll learn a ton that way and you'll know what all this stuff weighs after that too.

     

    With that said, the basics never change - wicking base layer, Marmot Windshirt (mandatory :-)then insulation to suit the temps (Patagucci Puffball Vest or Nano Puff? 200wt Fleece?), then a hard shell/soft shell, then a big-ass, put-a-nail-in-it down or synth parka. A little less overall for the legs. Figure out your system based on your metabolism and activity level. If you go out and get cold, you need more. Boots are a whole other discussion based on activity and length of stay up there. Don't forget the goggles up there. Priceless. Good shops back east: IME in Conway, The Mountaineer in Keene Valley, NY, OGE in Burlington... Anywhere but EMS:-)

  10. This is NOT ultralight. It's deluxe car camping and road tripping. Perfect as a palace for two or for a young family with a small kid or dog. Used only a couple of times (like new). It's giant inside for a 3P and built like a brick S%$# house, unlike all other tents of the genre. Fly roof vents, massive vestibule (plus small back one), freestanding, burly, factory taped seams, DAC poles...

     

    Yours for $200.

     

    It's $450 new and I honestly think the only difference between this one and a new one is the lack of hang tags...and maybe a pine needle or two. First come, first served.

     

    Thanks for playing.

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