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suckbm

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  1. Trip: Peru- Cordillera Blanca- Tocllaraju - West Face Direct

     

    Date: 7/16/2007

     

    Trip Report:

    jesse newman, craig gyselinck, and i hiked up the ishinca valley to basecamp on sunday after acclimatizing on vallunaraju 5686meters and an attempt on alpamayo 5947meters cutshort by a stomach virus. on monday craig and i left basecamp at 330pm. jesse stayed behind still feeling sick from alpamayo.craig and i reached the base of the face at about 8pm and began simulsoloing.we roped up for the 100meters to the ridge(80 degree ice)and reached the summit about 1am. the descent took 3 30meter rappels, some downclimbing, and a lot of tired walking and we made it back to basecamp around 7am. the route was spectacular but unfortunately the views were missed by climbing through the night.

    Imagen_195-1.jpg

    West Face of Tocllaraju- route goes up center of face

     

    Imagen_180-1.jpg

    the ishinca valley on the hike in

     

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    base camp

     

    Imagen_216-1.jpg

    jesse and a burro

     

    Gear Notes:

    3 screws

    4 pickets

    1 60m rope

     

    Approach Notes:

    burros to carry the gear

  2. first quit track. then buy 1 set nuts. .5 .75 1 2 3 camalot, 6reg runners, 2 double runners. a small crow bar and a nut tool so you can take other peoples stuck gear. then quit your job.

     

    and kat il trade you your hexes for a book or yours i have.

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